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SR60-Mod - Page 53  

post #781 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

I'm suffering from information overload, I have read this thread twice (its that good).

 

Bila, what are the dimensions of the cups you display in part 4 of your video? That looks like something I would want to recreate while finding a way to fix the non-liberated drivers into the wood cup. I am going to take a shot at some point making a pair of those cups. I have a friend whose father is a woodworker and I should be able to figure it out considering I can work metal on a lathe and mill fairly well.

 

 

Wow.  I envy you your skills.  There are many here on HeadFi who would be thrilled to buy aluminum cups since aluminum has such a high velocity of sound.  With respect to the dimensions of the shells, I have two rings, one serving as a first stage, forward chamber and a second stage, rear chamber.  The first stage "inner" has a hole of 1 7/8" with an outer dimension of 2" while the second stage "rear chamber" requires a 2" drill saw and another at 2 3/8".  These do not create an exact fit. They're sized up a little, which is to say they still leave some room.  Where things fit loose, I usually shim, set and glue.

post #782 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Majestic View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

OK guys... My 125i cans are now modified...

 

1) opened with hair dryer

2) cleaned off all remaining glue

3) punched 4 holes on each can

4) added 3/4 inch diameter felt furniture pad on metal center of each driver

5) added a strip of electrical tape around smaller half to hold the two halves together. Just makes them tights so I can easily reopen them... no glue yet.

6) using a pair pf Grado L-Cusions

 

The base is greater. Maybe a tad too boomy...a little more open with better soundstage... still evaluating.

 

Next step is some more work of the inside and replacement of the outside plastic screen and button. Questions...

 

1) Are we dampening the chamber or trying to absorb hi frequency reflections? Is seems that something like Dynamat would do the former. I have some that I had bought to dampen a turntable. It is a 12" square with removable paper on one side that exposes the sticky side. The other side has a heavy foil. Is that what some of you have used? If so, that would leave the foil facing the inside of the can. Now I've seen some of you line the inside with stick-on felt strips. It seems that would not dampen, but more likely absorb high frequencies. I'm not a sound engineer... just thinking out loud.

 

2) How do you remove the existing plastic screen on the outside of the cans? It is glued on the inside of the larger half.  (the mesh that contains the button with the model number)


I lined the can on my 60's with felt and to me it muddied the HF's. Or should I say it removed the noticeable difference among the instruments and vocals. Everything jut mixed together.


Go with your ears.  While I once hailed the adhesive felt technique as a cheap and easy mod to damp the back of the magnet driver, after listening to the Dynamat mod, I'd have to say the adhesive felt doesn't hold a candle to Dynamat.  I agree, at least partially, with your assessment that felt adhesive can end up swallowing HF.  I noticed that when I tried to apply it everywhere.  Dynamat is the way to go.

post #783 of 5003

photo 3 (7).JPG

 

photo 4 (2).JPG

 

photo 5.JPG

 

You can see DIY stuff scattered about my desk. It's perpetually messy.

post #784 of 5003
After complete failure with an attempted mod on my cheapos, I'm afraid to do these mods... even though they look to be worth it.

Should I get a second pair (of 60s or 80s) after I get some 80s, to mod? I'm alright with stuff when there's no plastic involved... so the SR 60-225s scare me.
post #785 of 5003

sml1226- I bought used SR60's and I'm modding them, I paid like $40 for the phones...that way if you brick them you'll only be out a small chunk. I will say though that the mods really, really make these special. I only did a few so far but one of the best was when I tried to pry the SR60 logo button off the screen and it broke off. I now have holes in the middle of the plastic screens and for whatever reason these sound smoother, more listenable. I've been listening pretty much all night since I pulled those buttons off...zero fatigue, I could wear these and enjoy them now longer than before. I'm going for it...the payoff so far is totally worth it to me.

 

A friend who didn't like his 125's is sending them to me and I wasn't gonna touch them but now.....I might just do them up as well. These mods are a blast!!!!!!  I'm gettin wood!!!...Coccobollo baby!!!

 

Hey where do I find this dynamat stuff??

post #786 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Wow.  I envy you your skills.  There are many here on HeadFi who would be thrilled to buy aluminum cups since aluminum has such a high velocity of sound.  With respect to the dimensions of the shells, I have two rings, one serving as a first stage, forward chamber and a second stage, rear chamber.  The first stage "inner" has a hole of 1 7/8" with an outer dimension of 2" while the second stage "rear chamber" requires a 2" drill saw and another at 2 3/8".  These do not create an exact fit. They're sized up a little, which is to say they still leave some room.  Where things fit loose, I usually shim, set and glue.

Thanks for the information. What is the depth of each of the cups? Would it be possible to take a picture showing the nesting of the two cups? I didn't get the impression that there were two cups from the video and pictures would help firm this up in my mind.

 

Thanks again for all you have done. This thread has quickly become one of my favorites here. And I look forward to when the next videos are posted!
 

post #787 of 5003


Hey BlazerHead,

 

You and I are basically at the same point with the mods except that I already replaced the plastic grill with a metal mesh (and also removed the button). I used elbow grease to get rid of the plastic grill, it wasn't pretty but it worked. I tried the "hot bath" but it didn't quite work, they probably used super glue or some other crazy bond glue. So I took a knife and hammer to it to remove most part of it and then some snippers to get the smaller parts out. I then used a dremel on the inside (with a metal brush tip) to clean up the glue inside and that worked fine, you just have to be careful with the dremel (talking from experience... some of the lettering on the got a little of it, oops...).

 

I got the metal grill from a metal trash bin I got from the dollar store, I've got enough mesh to do about 50 grills cool.gif.

 

Here's the end result, not perfect but I like the black on black with the brown leather headband gs1000.gif. Let us see your phones, post some picture...

 

 

IMG_8685.JPG

 

IMG_8689.JPG

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

OK guys... My 125i cans are now modified...

 

1) opened with hair dryer

2) cleaned off all remaining glue

3) punched 4 holes on each can

4) added 3/4 inch diameter felt furniture pad on metal center of each driver

5) added a strip of electrical tape around smaller half to hold the two halves together. Just makes them tights so I can easily reopen them... no glue yet.

6) using a pair pf Grado L-Cusions

 

The base is greater. Maybe a tad too boomy...a little more open with better soundstage... still evaluating.

 

Next step is some more work of the inside and replacement of the outside plastic screen and button. Questions...

 

1) Are we dampening the chamber or trying to absorb hi frequency reflections? Is seems that something like Dynamat would do the former. I have some that I had bought to dampen a turntable. It is a 12" square with removable paper on one side that exposes the sticky side. The other side has a heavy foil. Is that what some of you have used? If so, that would leave the foil facing the inside of the can. Now I've seen some of you line the inside with stick-on felt strips. It seems that would not dampen, but more likely absorb high frequencies. I'm not a sound engineer... just thinking out loud.

 

2) How do you remove the existing plastic screen on the outside of the cans? It is glued on the inside of the larger half.  (the mesh that contains the button with the model number)

post #788 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

This is why it pays to share.  I salute your resourcefulness.

 

Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

I got the metal grill from a metal trash bin I got from the dollar store, I've got enough mesh to do about 50 grills cool.gif.

post #789 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

photo 3 (7).JPG

 

photo 4 (2).JPG

 

photo 5.JPG

 

You can see DIY stuff scattered about my desk. It's perpetually messy.


Are those my cocobolos?  If so, you've done me proud.

post #790 of 5003

I'm looking at screen everywhere I go now....

post #791 of 5003

Don't want to hijack your thread Bill,but i just got a pack of these collars from over the pond.I have two spare pairs.If anyone in the UK would like a set, give me a PM,and you can have them.Snap on tools 610.jpgSnap on tools 608.jpg

 

It's nice to be able to put on the phones and they just fit..

 

 

 

 

post #792 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

I'm looking at screen everywhere I go now....


I made mine from an unused tooth brush holder i spotted in the bathroom.

post #793 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

sml1226- I bought used SR60's and I'm modding them, I paid like $40 for the phones...that way if you brick them you'll only be out a small chunk. I will say though that the mods really, really make these special. I only did a few so far but one of the best was when I tried to pry the SR60 logo button off the screen and it broke off. I now have holes in the middle of the plastic screens and for whatever reason these sound smoother, more listenable. I've been listening pretty much all night since I pulled those buttons off...zero fatigue, I could wear these and enjoy them now longer than before. I'm going for it...the payoff so far is totally worth it to me.

 

A friend who didn't like his 125's is sending them to me and I wasn't gonna touch them but now.....I might just do them up as well. These mods are a blast!!!!!!  I'm gettin wood!!!...Coccobollo baby!!!

 

Hey where do I find this dynamat stuff??


I've been looking for some cheap SR60s, but the local store has one pair of SR80s cheap and I like them pretty well as is. However I don't know if I really want to have to buy a second pair to mod or just cut them up and go with the 80s I'm getting.

What are other woods used? I've heard Cocobolo is used and I've seen Mahogany used, but I don't know what else there is that actually sounds good.

And Dynamat is available at car audio places and straight from Dynamat's site.
post #794 of 5003

I have vented the drivers but I've made too many holes (10) and now my SR125i are too bassy.

I've read earlier in this thread that this mod is reversible. How do you do that ?

Thanks.

post #795 of 5003

After seeing Bills video's I'm going for the Coccobolo, what the hell you only live once. I think some kind of screen or mesh that is Brass or that bright gold color would look sharp with the Coccobolo, and I have zero idea if I'm even close to spelling Coccobolo correctly...

 

intox- I think you cover the holes with Dynamat to correct??

 

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