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SR60-Mod - Page 52  

post #766 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by ArmAndHammer View Post

Wow...I was cringing the entire time I was watching video 6...lol...it's hard to believe you can use such brute force and they still come out ok. 


The force is to the metal ring that runs between the driver and the inside wall, not to the diaphragms themselves.  It's like cutting off a bicycle lock.  The bike remains unaffected.

post #767 of 5003

Ok...I didn't realize that was a metal ring...I thought it was like a plastic plate of sorts that the diaphragm was attached to.

post #768 of 5003

I love reading this thread. And the videos Bila. Watched 1-4 last night, the rest will be up tonight.

 

This really has convinced me to mod my SR-60s. I have had them for a few years but they haven't gotten much love with my new Fostex's taking most of my time up. However with my Indeed Tube Amp and taped bowls, things have really improved. I am going to vent and open up the screens tomorrow I think.

 

I really need to go back and read how you made your rings. I should be able to do that and really love how it looks and am curious about the sonic benefits.

post #769 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

I love reading this thread. And the videos Bila. Watched 1-4 last night, the rest will be up tonight.

 

This really has convinced me to mod my SR-60s. I have had them for a few years but they haven't gotten much love with my new Fostex's taking most of my time up. However with my Indeed Tube Amp and taped bowls, things have really improved. I am going to vent and open up the screens tomorrow I think.

 

I really need to go back and read how you made your rings. I should be able to do that and really love how it looks and am curious about the sonic benefits.

You'll be pleasantly surprised at how much you can positively effect the sound, try four holes at first as you can always go back.....very cool stuff.
 

post #770 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Video 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH19DGNQtIY

 

In this video, I get to cocobolo slip-ons and the performance increase is phenomenal.  The process isn't complete at this point, but it's such a high-water mark that this is where a lot of folks will stop because the performance benefits are so "there."

 

Wow, that video brought back a lot of painful memories. I'm not looking forward to going through that again, but I know that eventually my curiosity will get the better of me, and I'll be grabbing a steak knife and tearing at it.

 

Also, after I make some "driver woodies" I was thinking about stretching a piece of pantyhose over the front instead of a metal screen or wooden something.

post #771 of 5003

Speaking of the fronts....what do you do to cover the hole on the woodies after you install them??

post #772 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Speaking of the fronts....what do you do to cover the hole on the woodies after you install them??


On the back of the driver, I've used a copper mesh, but you could just cut a couple holes out of a screen door. As far as the front, I don't think that a metal mesh is a good idea since metal is cold on the ear.

 

It has been discussed in this thread.

post #773 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Video 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH19DGNQtIY

 

In this video, I get to cocobolo slip-ons and the performance increase is phenomenal.  The process isn't complete at this point, but it's such a high-water mark that this is where a lot of folks will stop because the performance benefits are so "there."

 

Wow, that video brought back a lot of painful memories. I'm not looking forward to going through that again, but I know that eventually my curiosity will get the better of me, and I'll be grabbing a steak knife and tearing at it.

 

Also, after I make some "driver woodies" I was thinking about stretching a piece of pantyhose over the front instead of a metal screen or wooden something.


I've got another SR60 whose drivers I intend to liberate.  This time, I'm going to file down all the plastic slip-blockers.  I think they're a big part of why this process is so nightmarish.  Knowing I was going to be going public with my success or failure, it was a little nerve-racking.

 

Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Speaking of the fronts....what do you do to cover the hole on the woodies after you install them??


There are a number of valid choices.  For easy grills, I've used window screening, which actually looks pretty nice when its washed and/or painted.  One nice thing about it is the relative ease in cutting it.  This softer material can be cut larger than the hole, then pruned and bent to create a screen that stands up inside the shell, making a glue job easier and even optional.

 

For a sturdier, aluminum look, I've scavenged screening from letter trays and carriers through Office Depot, Walmart, Staples, etc.

 

For grills you don't have to scavenge or re-purpose, there are sites online where you can buy aluminum mesh in discs of different sizes.  So far, I've passed on these just because I didn't want to commit to a specific size, but I think I'll probably buy these in the future.

 

Another possible choice may surprise you.  One is to go with wood, with the idea of harvesting bass while venting HF.  I'm already making rings to act as hats to hold the cushions.  If I decide to convert to a disc but aerate that disc, it may prove beneficial in harvesting better front-wave performance.  Of course, that's a theory and will remain as much until practice proves it one way or another.  On the back, it's also possible that Grado got it backwards, that his idea of putting a button in the center, surrounded by a free grill, may have been less ideal than a center hole surrounded by a lattice of wood and holes to create a mechanism that jettisons HF (and keeps air pressure stable) while allow certain kinds of resonance to echo off the back.  Again, this is the barest of possibilities, but one worth exploring.

 

There may also be something to the disc baffle used on many headsets in the early days and championed by the K701.  I noticed, when liberating the drivers on the DT770, that the sound was cleaner without the turtle shell but that more bass was present when the largely-paper baffle was present.  AKG uses plastic for such uses, which doesn't impress me, but if the disc were made from a great tonewood, it might produce some serious bass while battling the so-called baffle effect.

 

I've got leather coming so I can start making headbands and cushions.  Lambskin breathes, which could make it a better material than foam.  It'll certainly be better than vinyl.

 

Another idea I've been looking at for grills is - believe it or not - guitar strings.  Since tonewoods are used so much on fine guitars, I've thought about how cool the sound hole of a guitar is.  I think a guitar-like grid of guitar or bass wire would look cool, especially with a nut or bridge nut and maybe a mosaic rosette.

post #774 of 5003

Yes, I meant on the back of the open woodie...so you guys are just bending screen and filling the hole that way, I guess I'm looking for the cap to go on the woodies that incorporates a nice mesh screen, I big hash pipe comes to mind...oops...flashbacks...

post #775 of 5003

OK I get it now...sorry old guy, not as sharp as I once was....1000x500px-LL-23d3c415_DSC01629.JPG

post #776 of 5003

I'm suffering from information overload, I have read this thread twice (its that good).

 

Bila, what are the dimensions of the cups you display in part 4 of your video? That looks like something I would want to recreate while finding a way to fix the non-liberated drivers into the wood cup. I am going to take a shot at some point making a pair of those cups. I have a friend whose father is a woodworker and I should be able to figure it out considering I can work metal on a lathe and mill fairly well.

 

post #777 of 5003

OK guys... My 125i cans are now modified...

 

1) opened with hair dryer

2) cleaned off all remaining glue

3) punched 4 holes on each can

4) added 3/4 inch diameter felt furniture pad on metal center of each driver

5) added a strip of electrical tape around smaller half to hold the two halves together. Just makes them tights so I can easily reopen them... no glue yet.

6) using a pair pf Grado L-Cusions

 

The base is greater. Maybe a tad too boomy...a little more open with better soundstage... still evaluating.

 

Next step is some more work of the inside and replacement of the outside plastic screen and button. Questions...

 

1) Are we dampening the chamber or trying to absorb hi frequency reflections? Is seems that something like Dynamat would do the former. I have some that I had bought to dampen a turntable. It is a 12" square with removable paper on one side that exposes the sticky side. The other side has a heavy foil. Is that what some of you have used? If so, that would leave the foil facing the inside of the can. Now I've seen some of you line the inside with stick-on felt strips. It seems that would not dampen, but more likely absorb high frequencies. I'm not a sound engineer... just thinking out loud.

 

2) How do you remove the existing plastic screen on the outside of the cans? It is glued on the inside of the larger half.  (the mesh that contains the button with the model number)

post #778 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

OK guys... My 125i cans are now modified...

 

1) opened with hair dryer

2) cleaned off all remaining glue

3) punched 4 holes on each can

4) added 3/4 inch diameter felt furniture pad on metal center of each driver

5) added a strip of electrical tape around smaller half to hold the two halves together. Just makes them tights so I can easily reopen them... no glue yet.

6) using a pair pf Grado L-Cusions

 

The base is greater. Maybe a tad too boomy...a little more open with better soundstage... still evaluating.

 

Next step is some more work of the inside and replacement of the outside plastic screen and button. Questions...

 

1) Are we dampening the chamber or trying to absorb hi frequency reflections? Is seems that something like Dynamat would do the former. I have some that I had bought to dampen a turntable. It is a 12" square with removable paper on one side that exposes the sticky side. The other side has a heavy foil. Is that what some of you have used? If so, that would leave the foil facing the inside of the can. Now I've seen some of you line the inside with stick-on felt strips. It seems that would not dampen, but more likely absorb high frequencies. I'm not a sound engineer... just thinking out loud.

 

2) How do you remove the existing plastic screen on the outside of the cans? It is glued on the inside of the larger half.  (the mesh that contains the button with the model number)


1. Kinda. The sound is currently bouncing off the plastic and is resonating. The dynamat help prevent this resonance. I preferred it with the dynamat, if you don't like it you could just take it off.

 

2. I got it out with a dremel, but I wouldn't recommend doing that. 

post #779 of 5003

so did i, the hairdryer melted the grill instead of melting the glue. messy, but it worked.

post #780 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

OK guys... My 125i cans are now modified...

 

1) opened with hair dryer

2) cleaned off all remaining glue

3) punched 4 holes on each can

4) added 3/4 inch diameter felt furniture pad on metal center of each driver

5) added a strip of electrical tape around smaller half to hold the two halves together. Just makes them tights so I can easily reopen them... no glue yet.

6) using a pair pf Grado L-Cusions

 

The base is greater. Maybe a tad too boomy...a little more open with better soundstage... still evaluating.

 

Next step is some more work of the inside and replacement of the outside plastic screen and button. Questions...

 

1) Are we dampening the chamber or trying to absorb hi frequency reflections? Is seems that something like Dynamat would do the former. I have some that I had bought to dampen a turntable. It is a 12" square with removable paper on one side that exposes the sticky side. The other side has a heavy foil. Is that what some of you have used? If so, that would leave the foil facing the inside of the can. Now I've seen some of you line the inside with stick-on felt strips. It seems that would not dampen, but more likely absorb high frequencies. I'm not a sound engineer... just thinking out loud.

 

2) How do you remove the existing plastic screen on the outside of the cans? It is glued on the inside of the larger half.  (the mesh that contains the button with the model number)


I lined the can on my 60's with felt and to me it muddied the HF's. Or should I say it removed the noticeable difference among the instruments and vocals. Everything jut mixed together.

 

 

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