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SR60-Mod - Page 45  

post #661 of 5003

dumping the back of the drivers with dynamat? how much do you put? cuz i noticed that if you put it too thin it has little or no effect on it...
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

Hey everyone, this is my first post here. Great thread, lots of very good information here.

 

I recently bought a pair of SR-80i brand new and decided to do some of the mods in this thread.

- Removed the button and plastic grill and replaced it with a black metalic mesh

- Removed the white silk like lining

- Punched all 10 holes in the back of the driver

- Quarter modded the s-cushion pads

- Removed the vinyl headband and replaced it with a brown JMoney lambskin headband.

 

I have a question though... this thread mentions damping the interior of the enclosure and the driver with some felt to attenuate the HFs but I haven't really had the need to do that, is that normal? The headphones definitely have more refined bass, a bigger kick but the highs and mids are still as sharp as they were before the mods... Maybe I did something wrong? Any ideas?

 

I'm mostly listen to FLAC files on my Sansa Clip+ and music just sounds amazing...

 

The end result is this...

 

sr80i_modded.jpg


I found the highs to be sharp, so I damped the interior with dynamat (similar to felt) and it helps get rid of the plastic sound that the grados have. It doesn't get rid of it, but it makes it less blaring.

post #662 of 5003

Your last observation in your comment is what Modding is all about, how it sounds to you. I agree that at least for me the highs are respectable, but that may change. Like Bob says it does not hurt to add some felt just experience the difference in sound or if for you it does not then give us your feedback. I need to get one more cup apart than i'm going to try it. I cannot say it does not work unless I have tried it. 

 

So mod on and have fun.

 

And I like Monks Idea's as I spied some brass tubes and solid's pieces. I also could get used to the copper mesh. 

post #663 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by noinoi24 View Post

dumping the back of the drivers with dynamat? how much do you put? cuz i noticed that if you put it too thin it has little or no effect on it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

Hey everyone, this is my first post here. Great thread, lots of very good information here.

 

I recently bought a pair of SR-80i brand new and decided to do some of the mods in this thread.

- Removed the button and plastic grill and replaced it with a black metalic mesh

- Removed the white silk like lining

- Punched all 10 holes in the back of the driver

- Quarter modded the s-cushion pads

- Removed the vinyl headband and replaced it with a brown JMoney lambskin headband.

 

I have a question though... this thread mentions damping the interior of the enclosure and the driver with some felt to attenuate the HFs but I haven't really had the need to do that, is that normal? The headphones definitely have more refined bass, a bigger kick but the highs and mids are still as sharp as they were before the mods... Maybe I did something wrong? Any ideas?

 

I'm mostly listen to FLAC files on my Sansa Clip+ and music just sounds amazing...

 

The end result is this...

 

sr80i_modded.jpg


I found the highs to be sharp, so I damped the interior with dynamat (similar to felt) and it helps get rid of the plastic sound that the grados have. It doesn't get rid of it, but it makes it less blaring.


I don't want to sound like I'm shilling for wood but the one thing you haven't upgraded or replaced is the chamber.  You don't have to go wood.  You could also go aluminum or be the first one to take us into the world of carbon fiber (something I'm meaning to try as soon as I've extinguished the possibilities of wood).  One thing I do know is that plastic is no match for any of these materials and part of the problem is that so much of the headphone is still wrapped in plastic.  

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed.  You've done an awesome job.  I'm just saying that if you're still hearing something that shouldn't be there, it may be connected to the plastic, which is a lousy material for an air chamber.


Edited by Bilavideo - 1/7/11 at 9:26pm
post #664 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Originally Posted by noinoi24 View Post

dumping the back of the drivers with dynamat? how much do you put? cuz i noticed that if you put it too thin it has little or no effect on it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

Hey everyone, this is my first post here. Great thread, lots of very good information here.

 

I recently bought a pair of SR-80i brand new and decided to do some of the mods in this thread.

- Removed the button and plastic grill and replaced it with a black metalic mesh

- Removed the white silk like lining

- Punched all 10 holes in the back of the driver

- Quarter modded the s-cushion pads

- Removed the vinyl headband and replaced it with a brown JMoney lambskin headband.

 

I have a question though... this thread mentions damping the interior of the enclosure and the driver with some felt to attenuate the HFs but I haven't really had the need to do that, is that normal? The headphones definitely have more refined bass, a bigger kick but the highs and mids are still as sharp as they were before the mods... Maybe I did something wrong? Any ideas?

 

I'm mostly listen to FLAC files on my Sansa Clip+ and music just sounds amazing...

 

The end result is this...

 

sr80i_modded.jpg


I found the highs to be sharp, so I damped the interior with dynamat (similar to felt) and it helps get rid of the plastic sound that the grados have. It doesn't get rid of it, but it makes it less blaring.


I don't want to sound like I'm shilling for wood but the one thing you haven't upgraded or replaced is the chamber.  You don't have to go wood.  You could also go aluminum or be the first one to take us into the world of carbon fiber (something I'm meaning to try as soon as I've extinguished the possibilities of wood).  One thing I do know is that plastic is no match for any of these materials and part of the problem is that so much of the headphone is still wrapped in plastic.  

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed.  You've done an awesome job.  I'm just saying that if you're still hearing something that shouldn't be there, it may be connected to the plastic, which is a lousy material for an air chamber.


wood = good

post #665 of 5003

That's what she said!

 

 

 

 

 

sorry, just had to get that out of my system

post #666 of 5003

thanks for this thread Bilavideo.

 

Here is what I have done to my SR-225i's so far...


IMG_0075.jpg

 

IMG_0073.jpg

Mods:

  • Removed most of the plastic (still has the plastic grill over the driver)
  • Removed the white mesh
  • Vented the back of the drivers (huge increase in the base)
  • Dynamat on the back of the magnet
  • Recabled with moon audio silver dragon cable
  • Single piece maple housing with built-in 11mm distancer
  • It also has a built in mic with a separate cable (with the turtelbeach 7.1 it sounds like you are in the game)

 

Planned Mods:

  • Scrap the stock headset
  • Replace the maple housing with lignum vitae

 

I do have one question is there a benefit to a long chamber behind the driver? Or is it's only benefit to protect the driver.


Edited by noobfikt - 1/8/11 at 1:53am
post #667 of 5003

Does anyone have any experience with using Nordic woods (ie. pine, spruce, birch and such) for chambers? I wonder how those compare to the more commonly used (mahogany ie.).

post #668 of 5003
some people like me, would like to consider sound quality and looks of my precious grado at the same time. I really hope I know how to make some pretty aggressive looking woodies and would sound good at the same time, I really would, but too bad I can't. By the way bill, thank you so much for all the great ideas you shared about how to modding my grados. I must say if I did not do all mods that you've suggested like stripping that white cloth. It wouldn't have a happy ending... So now Id consider your idea about the silvers, and the woodies if somebody could help me. :-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Originally Posted by noinoi24 View Post

dumping the back of the drivers with dynamat? how much do you put? cuz i noticed that if you put it too thin it has little or no effect on it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

Hey everyone, this is my first post here. Great thread, lots of very good information here.

 

I recently bought a pair of SR-80i brand new and decided to do some of the mods in this thread.

- Removed the button and plastic grill and replaced it with a black metalic mesh

- Removed the white silk like lining

- Punched all 10 holes in the back of the driver

- Quarter modded the s-cushion pads

- Removed the vinyl headband and replaced it with a brown JMoney lambskin headband.

 

I have a question though... this thread mentions damping the interior of the enclosure and the driver with some felt to attenuate the HFs but I haven't really had the need to do that, is that normal? The headphones definitely have more refined bass, a bigger kick but the highs and mids are still as sharp as they were before the mods... Maybe I did something wrong? Any ideas?

 

I'm mostly listen to FLAC files on my Sansa Clip+ and music just sounds amazing...

 

The end result is this...

 

sr80i_modded.jpg


I found the highs to be sharp, so I damped the interior with dynamat (similar to felt) and it helps get rid of the plastic sound that the grados have. It doesn't get rid of it, but it makes it less blaring.


I don't want to sound like I'm shilling for wood but the one thing you haven't upgraded or replaced is the chamber.  You don't have to go wood.  You could also go aluminum or be the first one to take us into the world of carbon fiber (something I'm meaning to try as soon as I've extinguished the possibilities of wood).  One thing I do know is that plastic is no match for any of these materials and part of the problem is that so much of the headphone is still wrapped in plastic.  

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed.  You've done an awesome job.  I'm just saying that if you're still hearing something that shouldn't be there, it may be connected to the plastic, which is a lousy material for an air chamber.


Edited by noinoi24 - 1/8/11 at 3:05am
post #669 of 5003

Wow... 45 pages on this forum topic.  I read through rather quickly and hope I picked up the main ideas and a few details. I have a pair of 125i cans and would like to try some of the basic mods from the first few pages of this thread. My first questions is about reassembly. Since you soften the glue (hot water or hair dryer) for separation, how do you put the two halves back together?

 

I re-read some of the topic and found 2 references. One was for using "blue tack"... what is that? The other was for reheating (softening) the glue for reassembly. Other ideas?

 

Has anyone tried simply drilling a hole and adding a screw?


Edited by BlazerHead - 1/8/11 at 8:07am
post #670 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazerHead View Post

Wow... 45 pages on this forum topic.  I read through rather quickly and hope I picked up the main ideas and a few details. I have a pair of 125i cans and would like to try some of the basic mods from the first few pages of this thread. My first questions is about reassembly. Since you soften the glue (hot water or hair dryer) for separation, how do you put the two halves back together?

 

I re-read some of the topic and found 2 references. One was for using "blue tack"... what is that? The other was for reheating (softening) the glue for reassembly. Other ideas?

 

Has anyone tried simply drilling a hole and adding a screw?



simple...glue stick, and...you guessed it, hot glue gun wink.gif

post #671 of 5003

I just added a wrap or two of electrical tape and friction fitted the backs, I did this both with the woodies and the stock cups (which now have black mesh)

 

Just got my bowls in the mail (I gave up on getting all the dye out of the 414 pads): Holy crap, theres actually a noticable difference in the sound. Theres more seperation with the bowls. I'm considering removing the grill because I still feel like the highs arn't quite there.

post #672 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickmonk View Post

I just added a wrap or two of electrical tape and friction fitted the backs, I did this both with the woodies and the stock cups (which now have black mesh)

 

Just got my bowls in the mail (I gave up on getting all the dye out of the 414 pads): Holy crap, theres actually a noticable difference in the sound. Theres more seperation with the bowls. I'm considering removing the grill because I still feel like the highs arn't quite there.



Have you tried taking the white cloth between the ear cushion and the plastic? Cuz thats what I did to mine after doing all the mods and that solved the issue with my loss of HF.
post #673 of 5003

Actually one of the first things recommended. Glad to see yet another set of ears testifying that this mod does indeed work. Thanks for the input. Bill's never ending experimets helps us appreciate these great cans.


Edited by Majestic - 1/8/11 at 6:05pm
post #674 of 5003

Hey Bilavideo...

 

After following this thread closely, I finally found the courage to take apart my 325is and do these mods. I have to commend you for your extremely detailed explanation and pictures which makes these mods possible for people like me who are a little bit of a coward (paranoid if you will) when it comes to taking apart the cans. Having done it now, I can only say that it was actually easier than it appeared but would not have been possible without your detailed sharing. 

 

I did the driver venting, damping and grill cloth removal mods. I am not sure why in the hell I went ahead and vented 8 holes without trying out 4 first. 8 was definitely too much for me. It brought out some mid bass which I didn't appreciate so it went back in and covered 4. With just 4 holes, the sound was every inch perfect to me and the 325is is now a very very different beast altogether. I just can't keep it off my head :)

 

I meant to ask you one other thing - as you already know, the 325is has this plastic ring in the aluminium chamber. I presume it is there to prevent the drivers from being pushed too far into the chambers. I understand from one of your posts that you had this ring removed. Three questions:

 

1) How did you remove the ring?

2) How does it sound after that? Is the difference gained worth removing the ring from the chambers?

3) Without the ring in the chamber, how would you know how far you can push the drivers into the chambers? 

 

I am very keen in removing those rings but the above questions are what preventing me from doing so at the moment. I thought I should write to you and get your views before attempting. Thanks a heap for your time and your effort in sharing these wonderful mods. Because of them, I found a new love in my 325is :) Have a great one dude!

post #675 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by noinoi24 View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickmonk View Post

I just added a wrap or two of electrical tape and friction fitted the backs, I did this both with the woodies and the stock cups (which now have black mesh)

 

Just got my bowls in the mail (I gave up on getting all the dye out of the 414 pads): Holy crap, theres actually a noticable difference in the sound. Theres more seperation with the bowls. I'm considering removing the grill because I still feel like the highs arn't quite there.





Have you tried taking the white cloth between the ear cushion and the plastic? Cuz thats what I did to mine after doing all the mods and that solved the issue with my loss of HF.


I finally got up the stones to cut the cloth off, and wow. The HF is back, and feels close enough to touch. In reality the difference is probably in the <10% catagory, but it really does make a difference. Theres black dust all over my driver however, and no amount of blowing will clear it off. I couldn't guess as to whether it is affectin the SQ or not, but everything seems to sound great.

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