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SR60-Mod - Page 334  

post #4996 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Softdrink 117 View Post

A few things here. My apologies in advance for the wall of text.

 

First, over the course of the last week I've read all 333 pages of this thread, and am incredibly impressed with the general creativity and positive spirit that has been fostered here. I recently bought a pair of Grado's (Sr-60i) and based on many of the recommendations in this thread put aside my fears and popped the things right open. I have absolutely no regrets about doing so.

 

Second, although this is my first post on Head-fi, I've been lurking here for about a year. My wallet already regrets this.

 

Third, I'm sorry to head off from celebrating the return of the guy who started all this wondrous nonsense, but I may have actually found something here.

 

There was a lot of discussion a ways back about how there must be a sort of 'happy medium' between the jumbos and the bowls, a kind of sweet spot that preserved the soundstage of the jumbos while retaining the mids and forward presentation of the Grado sound signature. I'm not certain I've found it, but I stumbled upon something by accident that I thought worth sharing.

 

To back up a bit:

Over the last few days I've been messing with my phones a LOT, swapping around pads, opening and closing holes, etc. So tonight I was screwing around, and decided to go padless for a while. This (obviously) hurt a bit, but I was surprised by how radically different the sound was.

 

To cut a very long story short, when I was putting on some jumbos for some relaxed acoustic stuff I thought of something. I pulled off the headband and pushed the jumbo pads past the retaining ring on the edge of the driver 'inners'-- basically, I moved the pad until the ring was resting inside the cupped portion of the pad. This pushed the driver's cradle a couple millimeters closer to my ear. And then I did the same to the other housing, and listened while holding them up with my hands (since the headband won't fit).

 

And suddenly the mids are back, and I'm in heaven.

 

The forwardness from the Grado sig is back in full force, everything just feels 'right' as compared to the sort of attenuated feeling I get from the normal jumbos. But what really struck me was that there was still the same sense of depth that the jumbos provide. The detail and stirring highs given by the jumbos are still there, but not overblown like they were before. It's hard to explain, but sounds very nice, and doesn't seem to compromise overall FR by much (though it'll take more time with these to figure that out).

 

I think what's going on here is that the drivers are in the same physical position as they would be with the bowls-- IE, the driver cradles nearly touch my earlobes when pressured, etc.-- but the wider bowl of the jumbo pad increases the perceived soundstage.

 

I've only been listening this way for a few moments, but if this is placebo then I'm deaf. And this is all only on my crappy old mp3s (on vacation away from my home stuff).


Trim down some bowls to "donuts" and sock mod. Does practically the same thing to your sound. Also, it's damn comfy.


Kojaku
post #4997 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio-head View Post

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the thought of you even thinking about that!

But Bill PM'd today and said that he would ship the headphones out tomorrow morning through overnight delivery because I will be going back to Japan on Sunday.

And hopefully everything will turn out good and Bill will pull through.

But thanks again for even thinking about doing that.

 

 

I'm wishing lots of good thoughts on this one and sending lots of positive energy your way.
 

 

post #4998 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by ubitwarr View Post

Yes 30 watts is more than enough. Make sure that you learn proper soldering techniques because without them you will find yourself in a mess.

 


That's very true.  I found myself at Radio Shack the other night restocking some of my supplies.  A new container of flux, a new container of tip cleaner / tip tinner, some new solder that didn't have the rosin core, etc.  I found that applying the flux with a Q-tip to my wires and contact points prior to soldering them really improved the process of having the solder flow easier, stick better and make a much better joint.  The tip cleaner / tip tinner container was quite a small one, but you don't need much.  I'd set me tip into the compacted solution and quite a bit of the oxidation on my tip would be removed and it would get slightly tinned with fresh solder ready to work on the next connection.  Sure, the various containers, new solder and desoldering braid ended up running me about $27.00, but that's what's needed to ensure you can accomplish some very good connections.

 

post #4999 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




That's very true.  I found myself at Radio Shack the other night restocking some of my supplies.  A new container of flux, a new container of tip cleaner / tip tinner, some new solder that didn't have the rosin core, etc.  I found that applying the flux with a Q-tip to my wires and contact points prior to soldering them really improved the process of having the solder flow easier, stick better and make a much better joint.  The tip cleaner / tip tinner container was quite a small one, but you don't need much.  I'd set me tip into the compacted solution and quite a bit of the oxidation on my tip would be removed and it would get slightly tinned with fresh solder ready to work on the next connection.  Sure, the various containers, new solder and desoldering braid ended up running me about $27.00, but that's what's needed to ensure you can accomplish some very good connections.

 


Why did you get solder without the rosin core? That just makes it harder to get it to melt the first time doesn't it? The core also serves as flux. I'm all for adding more flux, but why not use the solder's flux, along with extra flux?
post #5000 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post



 

I'm wishing lots of good thoughts on this one and sending lots of positive energy your way.
 

 

Thanks wje
 

 

post #5001 of 5008

I have a very cheap soldering iron, I think 40W, tin melt normal cost me a little, but with my carding is easy. If I had to buy one would soldaor adjustable temperature, sell it on ebay for 30 , I think. Excessive temperature may irreversibly damage the drivers, I do not ever happened but I know some. It's simple, but you must be fast and accurate.
Moreover dismounted the 325 yesterday from a friend to change their plastic piece and I found a big surprise. I do not know because there are no pictures of that or I did not see them. The interior of this is covered with plastic to !!!!!!!!
Today I am going to see a carpenter to make a piece of wood that covers the entire interior. Pieces of wood I saw did not cover all this, no?.
Inside is a plastic ring that supports the rack like the 225, I'll take today.
The good news is that the sound will improve much more and that when they return to Madrid, my friend can compare with a HF-2, and we counted.
I will put process photos.

 

325.JPG

 

325i.JPG

hf2Destruction002.jpg


Edited by CABILLAS - 7/1/11 at 12:44am
post #5002 of 5008
Btw, I know Cabillas used to liberate drivers from the back and Bila liberates from the front...which one is better?

Kojaku
post #5003 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post



Trim down some bowls to "donuts" and sock mod. Does practically the same thing to your sound. Also, it's damn comfy.


Kojaku


I've thought about trying the sock mod. Unless I'm misremembering there's some debate as to how to effectively do it without distorting the sound (I recall reading that it 'darkened' the overall tone quite a bit). Will definitely try it if I can get these kinda results though-- these things just sing.

 

I've seen a lot of pics and read the articles on Headwize. Any other tips/references come to mind?

post #5004 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 


Check your PayPal.  I'm back but I understand where you're coming from.

 

PayPal checked. Refund confirmed. Thanks for the swift resolve with my issue Bill.

 

I'm keeping tabs on the missing cups thread, so if you guys were on the limbo list and there is anything (as in, you sorted yourselves out with Bill) to be updated, please post there.
 

 

 

post #5005 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Softdrink 117 View Post




I've thought about trying the sock mod. Unless I'm misremembering there's some debate as to how to effectively do it without distorting the sound (I recall reading that it 'darkened' the overall tone quite a bit). Will definitely try it if I can get these kinda results though-- these things just sing.

 

I've seen a lot of pics and read the articles on Headwize. Any other tips/references come to mind?


e3c52ec0.jpg

I trimmed my pads to the minimum, thus reducing transducer distance by as much as possible. The closeness brought some better kick to the bass, but it got muddy. So I reigned in the sound with some cotton socks. They're actually dress socks, so they don't distort as much as regular cotton socks. They wrap just enough to tighten the bass and add additional comfort, without creating distortion up high. But then again, my cans are sr225's, so the extension up high may be why, as when compared to the sr60, 80, 125, I can tolerate darkening my sound a bit.

Kojaku

P.S. They look pretty cool too.

aafa5872.jpg
post #5006 of 5008

Part of me really wants to see you go through with the woodying phase so I think not only should you get your cans back, but I think we should put some cash in to get you some of Marty's cans! I'm a starving who does recables for fun (I'll ask for donations from people from this thread) and not for profit, but if this thread is up by the time my financial aids for college comes in, I'd love to throw you a few bucks to get it done! Head-Fi members are known for reaching out and your situation really hits hard and I feel that you should get some restitution for it! I harbor no harsh feelings towards Bila, since his contributions far outweigh his liabilities. For christ's sake I spent 300 bucks on ALO cabled SR-225's back in the day because of him! Let just all be grateful that things are going to come back to normal in due time and just celebrate Grados and Grado modding!

 

I hope you listen to your SR-225's for hours when you get them and hopefully this hasn't set you back from modding Grados! 
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by radio-head View Post





 




Thanks guys! I really appreciate the thought of you even thinking about that!

But Bill PM'd today and said that he would ship the headphones out tomorrow morning through overnight delivery because I will be going back to Japan on Sunday.

And hopefully everything will turn out good and Bill will pull through.

But thanks again for even thinking about doing that.

 



 

post #5007 of 5008
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post



Why did you get solder without the rosin core? That just makes it harder to get it to melt the first time doesn't it? The core also serves as flux. I'm all for adding more flux, but why not use the solder's flux, along with extra flux?


Because the solder was of a different ratio - something, I just wanted to try.  It just so happened that the ratios of the one I wanted to try didn't have the rosin core.  Actually, the solder I picked up melts quite quickly with my 15W iron.  I was impressed.  My work was done in just a few minutes.
 

 

post #5008 of 5008

I'm sorry, but due to numerous breaches of the Head-Fi Terms of Service by various Members of the Trade (ie: basically using it for free advertising, possibly including people who SHOULD be marked as MOTs as they are modding for profit), I'm going to be closing this thread, and possibly later removing it from view.  I strongly suggest people interested in keeping any useful posts turn them into wiki/article entries quickly.  

 

Someone is welcome to start a new thread, of course.

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