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SR60-Mod - Page 327  

post #4891 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

Tell ya what guys... After some more time last night and this morning. I really think I prefer my bloodwood sr80i's to the mspros. I can't really make sense of it. I think the mspros sound better when I'm A/Bing back in forth.. but the slightly more laid back sr80i's appeal more to me when I listen to half an album and then switch.. They just play with my whole library better than the mspros. (which are still great headphones, I wouldn't have a problem recommending them). 

 

It might be my source... It is known to be a more harsh source, so that could explain my willingness to lose a slight bit of detail for the smoothness that my bloodwoodies provide... I'm not sure if I should pin the difference in sound on the bigger cups, or the drivers. I don't really know short of taking apart the mspros, Which i won't be doing :)


Placebo :p

 

post #4892 of 5003

Hello again,

  Yes the Handitak is yellow but I also use foam on the screen to make some backpressure for the cups that we have been modifying. This foam is dark enough so as not to see the Handitak. The foam is quite usefull too. It is soncially inert and can be used on the screens or as a replacement to the fabric that we tear off in front of the driver. I use a plumbing O-ring to hold the foam onto the plastic I have done testing and have found NO sonic degrigation with this stuff. It is real handy and is available in any sporting goods section-

 

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=athletic+foam+wrap+mueller&hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3049527578868584803&sa=X&ei=Zu8JToHDJLOHsAKtqpDHAQ&ved=0CHEQ8wIwBQ#

 

 

 

Again happy modding!

post #4893 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by xaval View Post



Judging from what I've seen on the spanish forum, it works on a group-buy basis. But Cabillas will chime in for sure.
 

 

 

You are right, when i knew the turner carpenter we make a list in the foro, they send me the money and i send the cups when was over. I have to say that nobody was without them. Them i found a cnc able to made in aluminium, we did another list, it was difficult because i had to coordinate measurings, times, money...but finally everything right again.

Now the carpenter have a few cups, only the sapeli and iroko models you knew first. And now i´m not going to do again. In the future, may be.

Here you have one of this long stories in the final people puts his photos:

http://www.auriculares.org/foro/index.php/topic,3383.450.html

The first (only a cup) nex to Rs1:

5.JPG

 

The last (complete):

 

050420111018.jpg
 

 

post #4894 of 5003

Just a HUGE note of praise for Marty http://www.head-fi.org/user/mlantinen

 

I contacted Marty to purchase 1 set of cups for my 325is, and after a couple days of PM's and 1,000,000 questions and requests from me... I ended up ordering 2 sets of cups and 1 set of 325 inserts. biggrin.gif

 

I will be posting some hi-res pictures of them once they arrive (2 weeks hopefully)

 

Marty is a SERIOUS class act! He was overwhelmingly helpful even with all my crazy questions and special requests.

 

 

post #4895 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

uhm, both... That is not really how you are supposed to solder. I don't really like the looks of your solder joints at all James.

 


 



Chris,

 

I'm in agreement with you about the joints.  Actually, my tip was getting a bit corroded, so I purchased a new one last evening along with some flux and tip cleaner from my local Radio Shack.  A proper solder joint should have a taper to it on the surface.  The wire you are soldering to a contact will have a higher point, but then it will taper down to the sides.  Also, the solder shouldn't have a "pitted" appearance when done - it should be somewhat smooth.

 

A ball of solder on a joint can result in what is termed as a "cold solder joint" - and, at some point down the road, could fail or become disconnected in some way.  Granted, we're not talking about the space shuttle here - just some basic headphone connections.  However, soldering does take some practice - and, having the right accessories makes it easier too (e.g. a holder for the iron with a sponge area that you can dampen to clean the tip between each use.

 

post #4896 of 5003

I can't wait to get my pair too, although I bought it from the For Sale section. Seller hasn't confirmed shipping yet so I'm afraid I won't be listening to them this week-end.

 

Marty seems to be quite cool in comms and the quality of his work is just exceptional as a quick browse through his profile will reveal.

post #4897 of 5003

All Right! My SR60's from WJE were delivered at my house. I can't wait to get home tonight and do some tinkering/listening. Thanks Wayne!

post #4898 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

All Right! My SR60's from WJE were delivered at my house. I can't wait to get home tonight and do some tinkering/listening. Thanks Wayne!

Good stuff. Gotta love happy endings.
 

 

 

post #4899 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

All Right! My SR60's from WJE were delivered at my house. I can't wait to get home tonight and do some tinkering/listening. Thanks Wayne!


No problem.  FedEx took care of it.  Less than 24 hours to get them 200+ miles.  I don't call that very bad at all.  wink.gif
 

 

post #4900 of 5003

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by xaval View Post

I can't wait to get my pair too, although I bought it from the For Sale section. Seller hasn't confirmed shipping yet so I'm afraid I won't be listening to them this week-end.

 

Marty seems to be quite cool in comms and the quality of his work is just exceptional as a quick browse through his profile will reveal.


Marty has always been a quick responder to my questions - very professional to deal with.  I'm sorry to hear about the other delays in your other transaction, though.  Getting something shipped is not an impossible task ... well, I should say for most people.  But, as we've seen here, there are exceptions.
 

 

post #4901 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by markkr View Post

Just a HUGE note of praise for Marty http://www.head-fi.org/user/mlantinen

 

I contacted Marty to purchase 1 set of cups for my 325is, and after a couple days of PM's and 1,000,000 questions and requests from me... I ended up ordering 2 sets of cups and 1 set of 325 inserts. biggrin.gif

 

I will be posting some hi-res pictures of them once they arrive (2 weeks hopefully)

 

Marty is a SERIOUS class act! He was overwhelmingly helpful even with all my crazy questions and special requests.

 

 


he is an artist, and a serious one. and he has a blog to check out his work http://martincustomaudio.blogspot.com/

post #4902 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post




he is an artist, and a serious one. and he has a blog to check out his work http://martincustomaudio.blogspot.com/



I'm eagerly waiting for the arrival of those figured asian cups featured on the blog biggrin.gif

post #4903 of 5003

Cabillas is packing my 2 sets now :D

Should be sweet with wood cups on both my SR-60`s and my SR-225`s :)

(Not to mention, I lost the grill part on one of my SR-60 drivers, and the cable had broke).

 

My Mullard M8100 tubes arrived today aswell, and my new DAC should arrive tomorrow :D

 

I`m starting to think the day has a bit too few hours :)

 

Anyone has an opininon on wich cups I should use on wich headphone?

I ordered a set of iroku and a set of sapeli.

 

-n

post #4904 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by nope-mx5 View Post

 

Anyone has an opininon on wich cups I should use on wich headphone?

I ordered a set of iroku and a set of sapeli.

 

-n


Being from Norway,  you probably like the lighter wood (Iroko) right?  The Sapele should be darker at first, but I've read that with time, Iroko does darken a bit.  Cabillas did mention that he believed the Iroko produced a bit better bass than the Sapele.  However, given that the SR-225 is a very capable driver - use those drivers for the Sapele cups.  Use your SR-60 for the Iroko.

 

While you will have to liberate your drivers from the mini cups to work with his wooden cups, you don't have to glue the drivers into place.  Press fitting them with your thumbs is enough.  With that being said, all you would need to do is de-solder and re-solder the wires from both sets of drivers if you wanted to change the cups around at any time in the future.  That's the beauty of these cups.
 

 

post #4905 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




Being from Norway,  you probably like the lighter wood (Iroko) right?  The Sapele should be darker at first, but I've read that with time, Iroko does darken a bit.  Cabillas did mention that he believed the Iroko produced a bit better bass than the Sapele.  However, given that the SR-225 is a very capable driver - use those drivers for the Sapele cups.  Use your SR-60 for the Iroko.

 

While you will have to liberate your drivers from the mini cups to work with his wooden cups, you don't have to glue the drivers into place.  Press fitting them with your thumbs is enough.  With that being said, all you would need to do is de-solder and re-solder the wires from both sets of drivers if you wanted to change the cups around at any time in the future.  That's the beauty of these cups.
 

 



Actually, I really like how the Sapele looks :)

They both look really good though :)

 

I`m probably going to replace the cables as well, as the SR-225`s is a pain to keep untangled.

(And it`s always nice to get an even more exclusive look) :)

 

Not sure yet wich cable I`ll use, but as I understand it, "any" 24awg 4 wire cable would work.

 

-n

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