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SR60-Mod - Page 326  

post #4876 of 5003

Read again i was completing, my english is bad, but i told that them sold out. Escuse me.

post #4877 of 5003

yes i read that but I was just wondering how much you sold them for.

post #4878 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post





when I solder? or when i heat it to take the cups apart? cuz the soldering isn't even on the driver itself right?

 

 

Oh it's just common sense, just be quick about your soldering, don't just park the iron in the solder puddle and boil it for no reason. The solder is on a contact pad on the back of the driver, just touch it and pull slightly and once it's hot enough the stock wiring will lift off once the solder is melted. Then you you can use the soldering wick to soak up any solder. There are some really handy tutorials for how to do soldering perfectly. The first time I learned to solder it was actually building an arcade joystick which involves like 2 hours of soldering. It's pretty easy and it's actually kind of fun!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4&feature=related

 

Feel free to PM me with any questions man, I'd be glad to help you!

 

 

post #4879 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio-head View Post

yes i read that but I was just wondering how much you sold them for.


I am sorry, they are not in sale.
 

 

post #4880 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by CABILLAS View Post




I am sorry, they are not in sale.
 

 


Cabillas, perdona mi Portuñol eek.gif

 

La pregunta de Radio és quanto han custado (antes de hagotar)

 

 

post #4881 of 5003

gracias xaval

post #4882 of 5003

SORRY, ph34r.gif. Them costs, 40€ aluminium and 20€ wood part, in 22 pairs order, the price depend of cuantity.

post #4883 of 5003

Cabillas, is it just the aluminium you're sold out of? I'd be interested in a pair of those wooden inners if you're selling separately

post #4884 of 5003

cabillas, could you tell me when you get them back in stock? i'd be very interested.

thanks

post #4885 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio-head View Post

cabillas, could you tell me when you get them back in stock? i'd be very interested.

thanks

Judging from what I've seen on the spanish forum, it works on a group-buy basis. But Cabillas will chime in for sure.
 

 

 

post #4886 of 5003

Hello all,

  I have found an alternative to Dynamat for a fraction of the price. They are both made from butyl rubber with the exact same consistancy. I have used the stuff on my Grado's with much success. It's called Handitak and could be found vitually everywhere in the adhesives section or school supply section of most stores. You probably could get fancy and layer it with foil if needed. Alone, Handitak gives a lot of mass to the spider to shore up any vibrations. Here is a link-

 

http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-HT2-48-Handi-Tak-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B00009V3VQ

 

 

Happy modding

post #4887 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkm24 View Post

Hello all,

  I have found an alternative to Dynamat for a fraction of the price. They are both made from butyl rubber with the exact same consistancy. I have used the stuff on my Grado's with much success. It's called Handitak and could be found vitually everywhere in the adhesives section or school supply section of most stores. You probably could get fancy and layer it with foil if needed. Alone, Handitak gives a lot of mass to the spider to shore up any vibrations. Here is a link-

 

http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-HT2-48-Handi-Tak-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B00009V3VQ

 

 

Happy modding



That's a nice option - especially for those who are having trouble locating Dynamat in their areas.  For me, though, I like the stealth look of the dark cavity of the insides of the cups - so, I'm a bit partial to using the black Dynamat material.  Good find, though.

 

post #4888 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post



 

the putting a bubble of solder on the cables first -or- the solder upon an old solder bubble?


uhm, both... That is not really how you are supposed to solder. I don't really like the looks of your solder joints at all James.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post





So then what happens to the white part? are the wires actually underneath the white? or is the white just a spacer?

 

 

You don't touch it :)



Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post




yup, and do not overheat the driver.

 


+1 which you will not do... if you don't mess around and go really slow, just make your moves as quick as you can while remaining accurate and you will be fine.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Himself View Post



 

Oh it's just common sense, just be quick about your soldering, don't just park the iron in the solder puddle and boil it for no reason. The solder is on a contact pad on the back of the driver, just touch it and pull slightly and once it's hot enough the stock wiring will lift off once the solder is melted. Then you you can use the soldering wick to soak up any solder. There are some really handy tutorials for how to do soldering perfectly. The first time I learned to solder it was actually building an arcade joystick which involves like 2 hours of soldering. It's pretty easy and it's actually kind of fun!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4&feature=related

 

Feel free to PM me with any questions man, I'd be glad to help you!

 

 



Yup, what he said.. no boiling solder :)


 

post #4889 of 5003

Tell ya what guys... After some more time last night and this morning. I really think I prefer my bloodwood sr80i's to the mspros. I can't really make sense of it. I think the mspros sound better when I'm A/Bing back in forth.. but the slightly more laid back sr80i's appeal more to me when I listen to half an album and then switch.. They just play with my whole library better than the mspros. (which are still great headphones, I wouldn't have a problem recommending them). 

 

It might be my source... It is known to be a more harsh source, so that could explain my willingness to lose a slight bit of detail for the smoothness that my bloodwoodies provide... I'm not sure if I should pin the difference in sound on the bigger cups, or the drivers. I don't really know short of taking apart the mspros, Which i won't be doing :)

post #4890 of 5003

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by radio-head View Post

I keep on PMing Bila but he doesn't respond.

He's probably never going to give me back my SR-225 headphones.

 

OK, I can see where Bill running into issue with cutting cups could be a problem - based on the demand and the issues he's experienced - along with time as there's only so much in one day.  However, keeping a man's set of SR-225 headphones for such a period of time?  That's just HORRIBLEmad.gif

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