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SR60-Mod - Page 302  

post #4516 of 5003

Hi guys, great to see some awesome mods still coming through.

So I finally picked up some jumbo pads today and I think they sound great.

I think they take a little bit of the mid bass out which gives some life back to vocals.

They are easily the most comfortable by far! I think the genral consensus seems to be that the bowls offer the best sound, although I like both, I would recommend people try them if they get the chance, i'm very happy with mine.

 

4d.jpg

 

 

post #4517 of 5003

Hi Nightslayer.

 

I did mine with a flat head screwdriver and a small block of wood. I did sharpen it a bit before hand, but I did not have to use much force to get the screwdriver through the plastic, hence why I didn't use a hammer. I'm not quite sure how you would do it with a phillips screwdriver... did you mean flat head screwdriver? You don't have to desolder the cables if you don't want to, just make sure they are out of the way from where you are working on.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post




Looks professionally made, the descript of the driver fitting into the shells sounds.. too good to be true, almost. I've been wondering how the drivers fit in the shell, and if glue is used how is a good seal maintained/does it affect the sound of the drivers. Just a question, did you desolder the cables before extracting the driver disk, or can you just leave them there and set to work? Also, is there any risk of the chisel damaging the driver? I'm planning on carrying out the extraction process with a hammer/phillips screwdriver.

 



 

post #4518 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

very freaking nice Wje, how did you like the MS1 stock compared to SR60 and SR80?

cups looks sweet, are they light?

 

the back grill loos deformed, or is it the photo?

 


I like the "stock / signature" sound of the MS-1i.  The bass isn't too much - almost spot on compared to the lower end Grados.  The highs are there for detail in music, but just not as overwhelming.  The beauty is being able to open those rear holes on the driver.  You can start with a low number and work up by opening a few more at a time until the sound gets to where you want it.

 

The black grill / screen is "bulging" out a little.  I inserted it with my thumb and pressed it into place.  It's not secured by glue or any adhesive.   This weekend, I'll work on some alternative methods for inserting it while trying to keep it flat.  The hardware store that I went to had regular window screen - but made out of aluminum.  I purchased a 24" x 84" roll for about $5.50.  I figure with that much material, I should be able to get things just "right" before I run out of material.
 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

Just a question, did you desolder the cables before extracting the driver disk, or can you just leave them there and set to work? Also, is there any risk of the chisel damaging the driver? I'm planning on carrying out the extraction process with a hammer/phillips screwdriver.

 


 

Unfortunately, desoldering the wires is almost mandatory for taking on this task.  Getting the wires desoldered means that they'll be out of the way when you liberate the driver - and, that you won't sever them.  Also, when it comes to the part of assembly, the new cups may just have holes pre-drilled for the wires to be inserted through.  If that's the case, then, you'll have to insert the bare wires through the holes of the cups and re-solder them to the drivers.  On the wire jacket that was inserted through the wooden cup, apply a wire / cable tie and pull it tight over the wire housing.  This will prevent the cable from being pulled out of the cup housing during furture use.

 

Enjoy!
 

 

post #4519 of 5003

I am a little sad for sure.... I broke a gimbal of my newly modded SR225s. I have it being held together now with silicone and electical tape but they sure aren't comfortable any more... With this damn postal strike in Canada, I cant even get any mailed to me any time soon. Anyone local to Ottawa happen to have a gimbal to sell me ? I would even pay for purolator/fedx/ups ground method within Canada or the us. it shouldn't be thaaaat expensive :)

 

Darren C

dgcrane


Edited by dgcrane - 6/17/11 at 7:04am
post #4520 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

The black grill / screen is "bulging" out a little.  I inserted it with my thumb and pressed it into place.  It's not secured by glue or any adhesive.   This weekend, I'll work on some alternative methods for inserting it while trying to keep it flat.  The hardware store that I went to had regular window screen - but made out of aluminum.  I purchased a 24" x 84" roll for about $5.50.  I figure with that much material, I should be able to get things just "right" before I run out of material.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN6D4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A4XO6HZAWO0U0
According to whoever said what Bila uses, this is the same size as the shiny aluminum one that fits their description, but black since it seems you like the black grill look.

That stuff was pretty easy to work with, especially compared to window screen.
post #4521 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by mouse6nelson View Post

Hi guys, great to see some awesome mods still coming through.

So I finally picked up some jumbo pads today and I think they sound great.

I think they take a little bit of the mid bass out which gives some life back to vocals.

They are easily the most comfortable by far! I think the genral consensus seems to be that the bowls offer the best sound, although I like both, I would recommend people try them if they get the chance, i'm very happy with mine.

 

4d.jpg

 

 


Hello, 

what did you use for the grill?

post #4522 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN6D4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A4XO6HZAWO0U0
According to whoever said what Bila uses, this is the same size as the shiny aluminum one that fits their description, but black since it seems you like the black grill look.

That stuff was pretty easy to work with, especially compared to window screen.


Thanks for the link to the material.  It looks like some good stuff - exactly when I wanted to get my hands on.  Now, it's just the process of getting a simple order in place.
 

 

post #4523 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by mouse6nelson View Post

Hi Nightslayer.

 

I did mine with a flat head screwdriver and a small block of wood. I did sharpen it a bit before hand, but I did not have to use much force to get the screwdriver through the plastic, hence why I didn't use a hammer. I'm not quite sure how you would do it with a phillips screwdriver... did you mean flat head screwdriver? You don't have to desolder the cables if you don't want to, just make sure they are out of the way from where you are working on.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

Unfortunately, desoldering the wires is almost mandatory for taking on this task.  Getting the wires desoldered means that they'll be out of the way when you liberate the driver - and, that you won't sever them.  Also, when it comes to the part of assembly, the new cups may just have holes pre-drilled for the wires to be inserted through.  If that's the case, then, you'll have to insert the bare wires through the holes of the cups and re-solder them to the drivers.  On the wire jacket that was inserted through the wooden cup, apply a wire / cable tie and pull it tight over the wire housing.  This will prevent the cable from being pulled out of the cup housing during furture use.

 

Enjoy!
 

 


@mouse6nelson: You make it sound too easy, I sure hope you're right. Yeah I meant flathead, I don't know what got into me and I somehow assumed that was the phillips >< Anyway the only time I've liberated the driver I went at it with a wirecutter and a knife (cut off the entire plastic wall) and it was extremely, extremely hard work. I'm hoping the suggested method above works better (:

 

@wje: If the cups bila sends are indeed two piece cups as I've asked him to make them, then it shouldn't be much of a problem with getting the cables in place yes (: I am just trying to avoid (as much as possible) having to desolder the cables for fear of blowing out my drivers as I did the last time. Once bitten, twice shy and now the less I have to touch my driver with the iron the better. Thanks for the suggestion regarding the cable tie, though I am already doing that. (: In fact, my Grado SR60s actually came like that so I just took the idea from there.. (:

 

post #4524 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

The black grill / screen is "bulging" out a little.  I inserted it with my thumb and pressed it into place.  It's not secured by glue or any adhesive.   This weekend, I'll work on some alternative methods for inserting it while trying to keep it flat.  The hardware store that I went to had regular window screen - but made out of aluminum.  I purchased a 24" x 84" roll for about $5.50.  I figure with that much material, I should be able to get things just "right" before I run out of material.



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN6D4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A4XO6HZAWO0U0
According to whoever said what Bila uses, this is the same size as the shiny aluminum one that fits their description, but black since it seems you like the black grill look.

That stuff was pretty easy to work with, especially compared to window screen.

This stuff looks pretty decent, may have to get my hands on some of those myself! Thanks!
 

 

post #4525 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post




Looks professionally made, the descript of the driver fitting into the shells sounds.. too good to be true, almost. I've been wondering how the drivers fit in the shell, and if glue is used how is a good seal maintained/does it affect the sound of the drivers. Just a question, did you desolder the cables before extracting the driver disk, or can you just leave them there and set to work? Also, is there any risk of the chisel damaging the driver? I'm planning on carrying out the extraction process with a hammer/phillips screwdriver.

 



My left driver slips right in and out and fits perfectly. So perfect that it doesn't fall out, or give too much of a problem if i want to pop it back out. My right shell was just a tad smaller, so I opted to take a file to the outside of the driver instead of the shell. I took off some of it around the driver and ended up just hot gluing the sob in place. I'm sure I probably could have done a better job if I had sanded down the shell, but I really didn't want to mess with lacquer. So, I did what I did :)


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mouse6nelson View Post

Hi Nightslayer.

 

I did mine with a flat head screwdriver and a small block of wood. I did sharpen it a bit before hand, but I did not have to use much force to get the screwdriver through the plastic, hence why I didn't use a hammer. I'm not quite sure how you would do it with a phillips screwdriver... did you mean flat head screwdriver? You don't have to desolder the cables if you don't want to, just make sure they are out of the way from where you are working on.

 



 



I'd recommend using a paring knife 

104152e.jpg

 

worked a lot better than a screwdriver for me. I also used a rubber mallet  :D
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




I like the "stock / signature" sound of the MS-1i.  The bass isn't too much - almost spot on compared to the lower end Grados.  The highs are there for detail in music, but just not as overwhelming.  The beauty is being able to open those rear holes on the driver.  You can start with a low number and work up by opening a few more at a time until the sound gets to where you want it.

 

The black grill / screen is "bulging" out a little.  I inserted it with my thumb and pressed it into place.  It's not secured by glue or any adhesive.   This weekend, I'll work on some alternative methods for inserting it while trying to keep it flat.  The hardware store that I went to had regular window screen - but made out of aluminum.  I purchased a 24" x 84" roll for about $5.50.  I figure with that much material, I should be able to get things just "right" before I run out of material.
 

 

Quote:


 

Unfortunately, desoldering the wires is almost mandatory for taking on this task.  Getting the wires desoldered means that they'll be out of the way when you liberate the driver - and, that you won't sever them.  Also, when it comes to the part of assembly, the new cups may just have holes pre-drilled for the wires to be inserted through.  If that's the case, then, you'll have to insert the bare wires through the holes of the cups and re-solder them to the drivers.  On the wire jacket that was inserted through the wooden cup, apply a wire / cable tie and pull it tight over the wire housing.  This will prevent the cable from being pulled out of the cup housing during furture use.

 

Enjoy!
 

 


I didn't desolder my wires before liberating, and I had no problem liberating with the wires in place. At no point did I feel like I was in danger of harming the wires. 

 

post #4526 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post


I'd recommend using a paring knife 

 

worked a lot better than a screwdriver for me. I also used a rubber mallet  :D


I didn't desolder my wires before liberating, and I had no problem liberating with the wires in place. At no point did I feel like I was in danger of harming the wires. 

 

That was what I wanted to hear (: Though having a knife in one hand and a hammer/mallet in another sounds remotely dangerous to me, hmm. Are there points which I could "break" which would drastically weaken the glue's hold on the driver, or is it evenly glued in all around?
 

 

post #4527 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post



That was what I wanted to hear (: Though having a knife in one hand and a hammer/mallet in another sounds remotely dangerous to me, hmm. Are there points which I could "break" which would drastically weaken the glue's hold on the driver, or is it evenly glued in all around?
 

 


I would start on the side opposite where the wires are soldered. Just because it is what I did :)

 

post #4528 of 5003

I used a knife for one driver and a screwdriver for the other. The knife was more unwieldy and knicked the plastic more compared to the screwdriver extracted driver. Also the screwdriver extraction was quicker and a lot easier. I used a small metal pipe to hammer precisely and more delicately then I could with a hammer.


Edited by BossBorot - 6/17/11 at 11:42am
post #4529 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BossBorot View Post

I used a knife for one driver and a screwdriver for the other. The knife was more unwieldy and knicked the plastic more compared to the screwdriver extracted driver. Also the screwdriver extraction was quicker and a lot easier. I used a small metal pipe to hammer precisely and more delicately then I could with a hammer.



what kind of knife? how big of a screwdriver? The screwdriver I used and didn't have much success with was a really small jewelers screwdriver and a larger one. All my other screwdrivers seemed too blunt.

post #4530 of 5003

I used a knife similar to the one you posted. The screwdriver I used was a craftsman 1/8x4 model number 41523. I guess that means the head is 1/8 of an inch and the total length of the screwdriver is 4 inches. The thickness of the point is slightly smaller then the diameter of pencil lead (0.7mm).

 

00941523000-1.jpg


Edited by BossBorot - 6/17/11 at 12:34pm
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