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SR60-Mod - Page 286  

post #4276 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 


Perhaps the very best headphone out there is the pair attached to the sides of our heads.

 



 Those are microphones, our head has a speaker though.

post #4277 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

It's three.  The first two had faulty motors.  The third was significantly better but it used plastic on one of the parts, a part needed to properly tighten the fit between the headstock and tailstock to avoid wobbling.  The third one worked much better than the first two but over time, the deficiencies of that plastic part became more acute.  By paying for the full warranty package, I've been able to go in and swap out lathes and even buy up to the better equipment.  I used my credit in the first two to buy the third and then the same credit to buy the one I just got.

 


Ah,  that makes sense; quite a bout of bad luck though.  Your work looks absolutely fantastic,  as usual.

post #4278 of 5003

hey guys how the hell does one remove the rod blocks? I've tried working with an exacto knife, heating them up, using an allen key to wrench it apart.. ain't working yet.

post #4279 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

hey guys how the hell does one remove the rod blocks? I've tried working with an exacto knife, heating them up, using an allen key to wrench it apart.. ain't working yet.


Keat,

 

I believe this is the procedure you're looking for (complete with pictures and all): http://www.jmoneyaudio.com/ginstructions.php

 

post #4280 of 5003

worked like a charm.. now i feel stupid for going through all the trouble..

 

Thanks Wayne!

post #4281 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

hey guys how the hell does one remove the rod blocks? I've tried working with an exacto knife, heating them up, using an allen key to wrench it apart.. ain't working yet.


The rod blocks are attached to the metal strip of the headband by an adhesive, such as Super Glue.  The bonds of this adhesive crack easily if you will simply work the band, back and forth.  To reattach, just drip a drop of a similar adhesive into the slit in the blocks and then work the rod blocks back in.  If you encounter resistance, it can be overcome with something blunt, like a mallet, which can be pounded on the flat bottom of the rod blocks to hammer them onto the metal strip.  Keep in mind that this is more easily done if you remove the rods first.

 

post #4282 of 5003

Thanks! so I should be using super glue not hot glue?

post #4283 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

Im just glad he isnt a flight operator


I'm just glad Harbor Freight isn't in the business of making airplanes.  I've bought and used their tools before.  They're great for the weekend carpenter or hobbyist.  However, if you go much beyond that, it seems that's where the issues can begin.

 

post #4284 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

worked like a charm.. now i feel stupid for going through all the trouble..

 

Thanks Wayne!


Not a problem.  That's what all of us are here for - knowledge exchange.

 

post #4285 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

Fine.. I'll pause my album and take pictures before I get in the shower.. Pics Inc. 


Chris,

 

The headphones are looking mighty fine.  And, your amp - don't feel as though it's overkill.  You'll appreciate it each and every day.

 

post #4286 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




Chris,

 

The headphones are looking mighty fine.  And, your amp - don't feel as though it's overkill.  You'll appreciate it each and every day.

 

I do :). Off to court... someone wish me luck.. I got a couple of nasty speeding tickets. I now use speed control, but I'll have to see if the judge buys into my reformed ways..
 

 

post #4287 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

 

 

 

It's three.  The first two had faulty motors.  The third was significantly better but it used plastic on one of the parts, a part needed to properly tighten the fit between the headstock and tailstock to avoid wobbling.  The third one worked much better than the first two but over time, the deficiencies of that plastic part became more acute.  By paying for the full warranty package, I've been able to go in and swap out lathes and even buy up to the better equipment.  I used my credit in the first two to buy the third and then the same credit to buy the one I just got.

 

So is this still the third or is it the fourth? Sounds like you're at four by that.

Does the claw thing hold the outside or inside? Or could you do both? If it can do both, that has to be pretty nice for sanding. And if it can hold the inside, you could put a wax and buff on them rather than lacquer and have it perfectly even every time.
post #4288 of 5003

Score so far:

Bill 4 - Lathe 0

 

give them hell Bill!

post #4289 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

Score so far:

Bill 4 - Lathe 0

 

give them hell Bill!



Or is it the other way around since he has to keep shelling out cash on the lathes?  Either way, keep up the good work, Bill!

post #4290 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by red sky View Post


Or is it the other way around since he has to keep shelling out cash on the lathes?  Either way, keep up the good work, Bill!

 

He said he's had them under warranty and continually been able to upgrade (I assume they let him use the broken product cost towards a new one) from them breaking.  I believe he's actually managed to come out on top.  

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