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SR60-Mod - Page 283  

post #4231 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

not sure if im right but ive never seen a guitar with a shiny finish in the inside, where the sound waves bounce. could it be related?




True, but if it's thin enough, it will be negligible. At least that's what I was told by Dean Zelinski in regards to how DBZ Guitars are finished.

Or you could oil rub them and have no real affect on the wood that's not cosmetic.


OK, so it seems we've finally assessed that applying some sort of finish on the inside might not have as great of an negative impact on the sound as we thought.  However, one still essentially won't really see the insides of the material once the headphone has been assembled.  On the other hand, if the inside is finished, the wood is more protected from humidity and dry swings, which could lead to expansion and contraction of the wood - and possibly even cracking.

 

My daughter is a violinist - and has been for the past 10 years or so.  Even though our house is humidified in the winter (we have 2 zone heating - one gas, one heat pump), her violin can get radically out of tune in just half a day from the movement of the wood.  This eventually leads to strings popping or even breaking.  The winter months can be especially hard on musical instruments.  However, for the price that was paid for her violin, I'd suspect that they would have finished the inside with some sort of sealer.  But, my guess is still that in a scenario such as that, cost isn't too big of a factor when you consider the complete price of the violin.  There still must be some reason why they didn't seal the inside.

 


Edited by wje - 6/6/11 at 8:50pm
post #4232 of 5003

thiswood.jpg

 

that is beautiful, what wood is it?

post #4233 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




OK, so it seems we've finally assessed that applying some sort of finish on the inside might not have as great of an negative impact on the sound as we thought.  However, one still essentially won't really see the insides of the material once the headphone has been assembled.  On the other hand, if the inside is finished, the wood is more protected from humidity and dry swings, which could lead to expansion and contraction of the wood - and possibly even cracking.

 

My daughter is a violinist - and has been for the past 10 years or so.  Even though our house is humidified in the winter (we have 2 zone heating - one gas, one heat pump), her violin can get radically out of tune in just half a day from the movement of the wood.  This eventually leads to strings popping or even breaking.  The winter months can be especially hard on musical instruments.  However, for the price that was paid for her violin, I'd suspect that they would have finished the inside with some sort of sealer.  But, my guess is still that in a scenario such as that, cost isn't too big of a factor when you consider the complete price of the violin.  There still must be some reason why they didn't seal the inside.

 


My guess is that they want a natural sound that is as pure as possible. However, on anything musical, materials chosen affect the sound to color it. If we can find how different finishes affect sound, can't we use that to fine tune the last bit of coloration to our liking? I think if we try enough of our options, we would be able to find something that compliments the woods we're using.
post #4234 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

thiswood.jpg

 

that is beautiful, what wood is it?



Looks to be zebra wood.

post #4235 of 5003

also, I have my wooden cups on and working with the stock copper cable. All is looking and sounding good after about 8 hours of messing around with them. I had the channels flipped and it threw everything off for a while. I was so scared and then it all turned out okay. I'll update with more impressions/photos later. Far too busy listening for now. 

post #4236 of 5003

Chris,

 

Great to hear.  Glad you're making some major progress on your set.

post #4237 of 5003

Being that Grado sent out my replacement gimbals today, I took apart the burls this evening.  The lips that the speaker units fit into are a bit too thick for the standard Grado gimbals.  However, due to comfort reasons, I'm stuck with the idea of going to the standard Grado size.  It looks like the Dremel will get pulled out this weekend to make some adjustments to the size of the burl cups to allow the gimbals to fit.  I'm sure if I work slow and steady with the Dremel drum sanding tip, it should be OK.  Plus, I have the Dremel sander which has about 8 different pieces that you can adhere sandpaper to which will allow you to get some custom sanding done on your work.  I don't use those tools a lot - but, it's good to know that they're there.

post #4238 of 5003

Hehehe evil_smiley.gifnow throw some 10893753_Tiger_Wood_Flooring.jpg in there Bill. I would love to see what you could do with BTM.

 

Bill, your work is terrific, Do gs1000.gif continue

 

_1246480072.jpgSantos_Mahogany_Room.jpgwink_face.gif


Edited by Hennyo - 6/7/11 at 1:34am
post #4239 of 5003

floors paved with grado cup material. I've seen it all.

post #4240 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

floors paved with grado cup material. I've seen it all.


It's actually the other way around.  For years, they've found different uses for zebra wood.  Hardwood flooring is just one example.  I'm sure they've even used thin sheets of veneer to cover speaker cabinets in it. Now, those who cut headphone cups have taken notice to the beauty of the wood and are using it as one of their offerings of cup variations in their lineup.  They sure are nice, though.

 

post #4241 of 5003

just vented one of my drivers with extreme caution, but now i can barely hear anything out of it. any ideas guys? 


Edited by kitesrfun1 - 6/7/11 at 3:56am
post #4242 of 5003

Wow, those were the kind of cups I wanted Bill to make when I ordered cups from him. Great to see you've done it, and done it beautifully too. Good job! smile.gif

post #4243 of 5003

wow Bill, looks like Grado heaven at your house . . . . or are those all napkin rings?  tongue.gif

 

 

Recently one of my drivers quit on me, so sent my SR60 back to Brooklyn to visit it's relatives. They are great with service, in less than a week and for only $25 I have new drivers.

 

Of course now I have to start my modding all over as they were returned to original condition, basically all my mods un-done. Oh well, at least I get another chance to see what stock sounds like.

 

I plan to wait until my wood cups arrive and do all the mods again during install of the woodies


Edited by NiceCans - 6/7/11 at 6:21am
post #4244 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesrfun1 View Post

just vented one of my drivers with extreme caution, but now i can barely hear anything out of it. any ideas guys? 



what did you use, and have you check if you didnt punch the driver?

post #4245 of 5003

What James said. ^^

 

I've done the same thing kitesrrfun, and I actually punctured my driver on my 225i. Needless to say, the right side never did sound the same as the left. I actually had to return mine in about two weeks (couldn't stand it).

 

I used a bread twisty-tie to vent through the 225i grill. Big mistake. For newbs out there, only vent if you've opened the can. Once you're familiar with the distance between the driver and the dampening cloth, you're fine, but for first time venters, I'd stick to opening the can to vent the drivers.

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