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SR60-Mod - Page 28  

post #406 of 5003

Bilavideo how are your plans for some carbon fiber grados going?

post #407 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by tisb0b View Post

Bilavideo how are your plans for some carbon fiber grados going?


I got exhausted by work and fell behind a bit, but I've just put in an order for carbon fiber and resin.  I'm up for it as soon as the materials get here.

post #408 of 5003

If it turns out to be successful I will be interested in ordering a pair.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Originally Posted by tisb0b View Post

Bilavideo how are your plans for some carbon fiber grados going?


I got exhausted by work and fell behind a bit, but I've just put in an order for carbon fiber and resin.  I'm up for it as soon as the materials get here.

post #409 of 5003

Those are some sweet-ass ear cups. How do they sound?

 

Glad that you haven't forgottent this thread; the updates are both fascinating and extreme.

post #410 of 5003

Very nice and interesting mods. Took me a bit to get through all those pages :>

post #411 of 5003

Say Bilavideo...these latest pictures ^^ are they of the wider infinite baffle type cups you said you still needed to glue up?...curious cause I wouldn't have thought they would fit in the forks. I'm wondering how the infinite baffle types sound compared to traditional wood cups and if that's the way diyers should go when making their own cups? 

post #412 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Originally Posted by JoetheArachnid View Post



Those are some sweet-ass ear cups. How do they sound?

 

Glad that you haven't forgottent this thread; the updates are both fascinating and extreme.


Thanks!  I tested them on a pair of 325is inners (which slide right in) and it was a little bit of heaven.  They're a little bit longer than the RS1 pads (and a tiny bit wider) but still skinny enough to fit into traditional Grado forks.  I've been going wider, and either making wooden rings to replace the forks or bypassing the forks to attach directly to the headband, so it took some tooling to slim back down but I like the way things turned out.


Edited by Bilavideo - 11/26/10 at 8:26am
post #413 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Shells1.jpg
Originally Posted by VinylCat62 View Post

Say Bilavideo...these latest pictures ^^ are they of the wider infinite baffle type cups you said you still needed to glue up?...curious cause I wouldn't have thought they would fit in the forks. I'm wondering how the infinite baffle types sound compared to traditional wood cups and if that's the way diyers should go when making their own cups? 


These are of a skinnier set.  A friend had asked me to make shells of a more traditional RS1 style, shells that would specifically fit within the traditional forks.  I found it somewhat challenging because it meant following a pattern rather than making one.  I'm not as good at coloring within the lines, so to speak, which meant matching what I was doing to a pattern already set by someone else.

 

The ones you're talking about looked more like this.

saucers.jpg

BacksBeforeGrills.jpg

TowerBacksWithoutGrills.jpg

 

towers.jpg

thumb.jpg

Fronts.jpg

Headbands2.jpg

Pads.jpg

Pads2.jpg

 

Going wider has several effects.  It does reduce resonance further by distancing sources of it.  Among other things, the boominess of mid- and high-bass are neutralized and there's definitely a better sense of space.  On the other hand, I found I had to increase the volume, making an amp more of a necessary companion.  This is where the limits of the Grado driver became more apparent.  As I pushed things a bit, I started to get cone break-up, the very reason Sennheiser went to the HD800 driver.


Edited by Bilavideo - 11/26/10 at 8:35am
post #414 of 5003

^ Thanks for clearing that up for me. Interesting what you say about reduced output...but it does make sense when you think about it. So perhaps the ideal might be a combination of the two types of cups...I mean an inside cup surface shaped more like a horn speakers exponential horn starting narrower closer to the driver and then gradually widening. Or perhaps even wider at the driver and then narrowing might be better?

 

If one had a set of different diameter hole saws, and used a drill press's depth limiter to reduce cut depth on each next larger hole saw, one could make a stair step like inner surface. Then a sanding of the steps to make it more exponential. That might provide enough reduced resonance and yet still enough output. What do ya think? (hehe...if it works and you market the idea, I want a share of the millions OK :)). 

post #415 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by VinylCat62 View Post

^ Thanks for clearing that up for me. Interesting what you say about reduced output...but it does make sense when you think about it. So perhaps the ideal might be a combination of the two types of cups...I mean an inside cup surface shaped more like a horn speakers exponential horn starting narrower closer to the driver and then gradually widening. Or perhaps even wider at the driver and then narrowing might be better?

 

If one had a set of different diameter hole saws, and used a drill press's depth limiter to reduce cut depth on each next larger hole saw, one could make a stair step like inner surface. Then a sanding of the steps to make it more exponential. That might provide enough reduced resonance and yet still enough output. What do ya think? (hehe...if it works and you market the idea, I want a share of the millions OK :)). 


I don't know about any millions but it's amazing what you can pull off with a hole saw and a drill press.  

 

7.jpg

 

Here's one of several shells I cut yesterday.  It's really two rings of different sizes, one fitting perfectly into the other.  This particular set is made for liberated drivers (all plastic removed, including the plastic cup/cage the driver comes in).  We're still in the rough here, with an initial layer of sanding done but no staining, no candy coating, no holes for cables, no holes for forks, no screens and no hat or lip to hold the cushion in place.  I have yet to dremel sand the interior, which is still rough, but the fundamentals are sound.  I've got a wooden front (rather than plastic) and a wooden rear shell, which can be expanded upon if desired.  From here, it's really a matter of refining the basic concept until it shines.

 

6.jpg

 

Here's a shot of a similar shell, with better lighting, so you can see how one piece slides into the other like a glove.  This one does have the hole for the cord, which you can see on the right.  I've also put on an old comfy cushion, to give you an idea of what it should look like with some clothes on.  The lack of stain shows a Bilavideo moment, when I ran out of red oak and used poplar for the outer shell (I have since stocked up on more red oak).  

 

5.jpg

 

Some argue that it's better to leave the inside untreated because the irregularities of the inner surface help break up reflections of resonance, but that may just be a snake-oil excuse for only hitting the outside.  In my case, I've just got more work to do, but I like this picture because it gives a more close-up picture of these two rings at work.

 

4.jpg

 

Between these two cushions (the jumbo at the top and the comfy at the bottom) are the inner rings I've managed to slide into the outer rings.  It's cool that from such simple components, something terrific can be assembled.

 

1.jpg

 

These are not the only sizes or configurations possible, nor should anybody feel any compulsion to slavishly imitate the Grado shells.  There are, in fact, lots of fascinating possibilities.  There's no reason why creative minds should not push in new directions and demand truly "customized" shells to fit their curiosity or their sense of aesthetics.

post #416 of 5003

Bilavideo, this is by far my favorite thread on head-fi. You took a basic concept and ran with it way further than I thought possible.

 

Good job, I'm interested to see where this ultimately goes.

post #417 of 5003

I want a lathe!

post #418 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

I don't have a lathe (too expensive) but I do have a hole saw, a drill press and a belt sander.  And last week was a good week to cut.

 

rings1.jpg

It's like making doughnuts.  Once you get started, it's hard to stop.

 

funnel2.jpg

 

So, I went a little nuts.

 

jenga5.jpg

post #419 of 5003
Thread Starter 

HERE'S WHAT I HAVE SO FAR

 

1 - The Family.jpg

 

Tonight, I started arranging shells by style/strategy.  What follows is nothing too glamorous but there's a logic to it.

 

11 - Plasticated Single Ring.jpg

 

Shells can be classified on the basis of whether the driver is left in its original plastic cup (a plasticated driver) or whether the driver has been liberated.  With a plasticated driver, a single wooden ring can produce an air chamber the same size as the original SR60 (the SR60i adds a slight mushroom top, which can be matched with an additional thin wooden ring).  The result is a simple, low-profile shell that covers the same real estate as an RS2, with about half the wood.

 

12 - Solo Ring.jpg

 

Here's a direct comparison between the SR60i and one of my single-layer Onion Rings (unfinished but beginning to take shape).  This is the easiest approach.  The other approach is to "liberate" the driver of its plastic inner cup, its "cage."

 

Wooden Bridge - Liberated Driver.jpg

 

When the plastic is removed, it needs to be replaced by a wooden bridge, which is essentially a smaller wooden ring to fit into the larger wooden ring.  This requires an additional ring or "hat" to create a lip.  The lip keeps the cushion from sliding off.

 

Liberated Driver 2.jpg

 

With the wooden bridge in place, a simple liberated Short Stack features surprising depth given its moderate profile.  What's more important is the fact that the benefit of using wood begins at the driver and not halfway through the air chamber.

 

9 - Heights Compared.jpg

 

With these ideas in mind, I started creating different shell types of varying lengths, widths and styles.

 

2 - Onion Ring.jpg

 

The most basic are these single-level Onion Rings.  With no bridge, they're simply designed to form the second or rear shell of a plastic/wood hybrid.  These are low profile but, because of their width, they provide good volume and a kind of lateral extension.

 

3 - Double Decker.jpg

 

For someone who wants more extension, perhaps to compensate for the lack of a wooden front, a Double Decker provides both volume and thicker walls for mass.  These would not be low-profile.  There are, however, some interesting benefits of deploying such massive shells.

 

4 - Liberated Short Stack.jpg

 

The liberated Short Stack provides a lower profile and a certain degree of elegance (even if these are not quite finished).  The wooden bridge provides immediate benefits of wood.

 

5 - Liberated Double.jpg

 

I thought it might be interesting to combine the benefits of a liberated driver with the depth of a double decker, so I came up with the Liberated Double Decker (I'll bet you never saw that one coming).  This is probably pushing the comfortable limits of chamber extension.  You can only go so far with this before you look like Frankenstein (or a steer).  Yet, if someone were really into the use of wood, this "would" work.

 

6 - Slim Cannon.jpg

 

These long and skinny Slim Cannons provide extreme depth with the least degree of latitude.  I was playing with them today and the bass just floored me.  It's very present.  And yet the depth also seems to serve other issues, such as clarity, though exactly why I do not know.  I would not, however, wear these to the grocery store, except on Halloween.

 

8 - Monster.jpg

 

Here is a design I just abandoned as being impractical.  I call it the Monster.  It fits a liberated driver but extends so far out, and fans out so much, it looks more like some head gear from the 19th Century.  

 

10 - Heights Compared.jpg

 

Of all these, I think I like the liberated Short Stack the best.  For those who want "wood" but don't want to liberate their driver, the single-layer Onion Ring may make the most sense.

post #420 of 5003
Thread Starter 

What size is the optimal size for a modded Grado shell?

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