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SR60-Mod - Page 259  

post #3871 of 5003

Nice drill press and good, reliable brand.

 

You are going all in!

 

I may have to put in an order to you for some cups for my 80's... you know, just to get you off the hook with your wife...!

 

You know, you can write off all your recent purchases as business investments!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

I'm pretty sure at least one of these pictures can be found in the dictionary under "taking things to an unhealthy level."



 

post #3872 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by ubitwarr View Post
lol. At least you enjoy it. What does that thing do?

 

A drill press allows you to vertically pull a drill bit down on top of something for smooth, reliable drilling or cutting.   In the past, I've used a drill press to make shells with hole saws.  I've since obtained a lathe, which allows me to bevel, shape and contour my shells.  I've found that the two tools work well together.  Using a drill press, I can simplify the lathing process by pre-shaping the piece I'm going to lathe.  The milling vise helps me to position and hold the piece I'm cutting with the drill press, and to make very fine adjustments as I'm doing so.  Among other things, it's nice to have the vise at the ready when cutting gimbal-ready holes.
 

 

post #3873 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

 

A drill press allows you to vertically pull a drill bit down on top of something for smooth, reliable drilling or cutting.   In the past, I've used a drill press to make shells with hole saws.  I've since obtained a lathe, which allows me to bevel, shape and contour my shells.  I've found that the two tools work well together.  Using a drill press, I can simplify the lathing process by pre-shaping the piece I'm going to lathe.  The milling vise helps me to position and hold the piece I'm cutting with the drill press, and to make very fine adjustments as I'm doing so.  Among other things, it's nice to have the vise at the ready when cutting gimbal-ready holes.
 

 

 

bill thanks so much for fixing my driver! you are too kind sir! ...now i'm only have trouble soldering the cable back on. when i solder it, it doesn't seem to make contact as i can't hear a thing. i was able to hear a split second or two of sound but then it vapored. the other driver is having no trouble at all after i re-soldered the cable. 

 

any suggestions?? 

here are some photos: 

 

DSCF3698.jpgDSCF3693.jpg


 

post #3874 of 5003

 

here is one of my many attempts. messy messy messy :/ haa

 

 

 

DSCF3701.jpgDSCF3699.jpg

post #3875 of 5003

never mind i ripped out the coil againnnn ;(((((( frustrating! sorry i ruined your long hard work bill :((( 

 

 

damn doesn't anyone have an extra driver they want to sell? 

post #3876 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

I'm pretty sure at least one of these pictures can be found in the dictionary under "taking things to an unhealthy level."


Never.  Any tool that one purchases to make their life easier is never considered an unhealthy level.  Instead, it is a sign of working "smarter".  For example.  I purchased a 26 Gal. air compressor a few summers back off of Craigslist.  It was a Husky brand and like brand new for $150.  I just wanted to buy it so I could spray out my lawn irrigation system in the fall before the freeze hit.  The guy that was selling it only purchased it to utilize it for keeping air in the car tires, bike tires, etc.  He realized it was overkill, but held onto it for a few years and couldn't return it.  When I showed up to make the purchase, he had a small tool box with a Huksy impact wrench, impact ratchet and impact chisel - as well as a cut-off tool.  Apparently, he bought one of those "packages" that included everything but the kitchen sink.  A big bonus for me - getting the tools, too!

 

Anyway, I've been a "shade tree" mechanic all my life.  For removing bolts, nuts, etc., I always relied on breaker bars and lots of upper-body strength to get things loose.  Well, yesterday, I finally got my head together and set up the tools for use with the quick connects and all.  The result?  I had all my bolts and nuts off in about 10 minutes.  Normally, this would have taken over an hour, lots of PB Blaster to loosen the rust, some words that I wouldn't care to repeat again, etc.  Needless to say, I love my tools.

 

Tools are never an insane purchase.

 

 

post #3877 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesrfun1 View Post

 

here is one of my many attempts. messy messy messy :/ haa

 

 

 

-snip snip-



eek.gif that poor driver his only mission in life was to deliver sweet sweet music the right way. RIP.

 

stuff like these makes me doubt about a total liberation of the driver, but you guys keep saying the sound worth it...

 

sorry about your driver Kites!

post #3878 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

stuff like these makes me doubt about a total liberation of the driver, but you guys keep saying the sound worth it...

 

 


I'm with you on that one, brother.  That's probably why I'm currently not a heart surgeon.  I don't think I would have made it through one surgery without hacking someone up into pieces.  eek.gif

post #3879 of 5003

I believe all doctors do that once in a while, they call it "surgery complications" and about complicstions, I dont want to recable my grados but its necesary to slip the cups to remove the sable so I was thinking, would it be better to cut the cable in the Y split and solder cable with cable then to solder cable with driver?

post #3880 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

I believe all doctors do that once in a while, they call it "surgery complications" and about complicstions, I dont want to recable my grados but its necesary to slip the cups to remove the sable so I was thinking, would it be better to cut the cable in the Y split and solder cable with cable then to solder cable with driver?


James, the re-cable process should be pretty simple.  Keep in mind that most posters here believe that a 15 watt soldering iron is enough to get the job done.  Also, invest in some cable ties - so, you can wrap them around the wire that goes inside the cup and will prevent the wires from being pulled out.  If I were you, I'd do a thorough job on the recable process.  Avoiding certain options out of fear, might lead to a less-than-stellar job in the end.

 

I have an update regarding the locking collars that I received today from Motion Industries.  These were the $.57 cent (each) collars, plus $5.50 for shipping.  They are essentially the same quality and appearance of the Dayton collars that I picked up on Friday.  They're zinc coated, with black set-screws.  Now, I just need to figure out why my order number from Grainger is incorrect as they have my black zinc coated collars at the store for pick-up.  However, without providing the correct order number, I might be out of luck.  Hopefully, they can search by my cell phone number or name.  I'll try to pick them up tomorrow.  I'll then get some pics posted of the goodies.

 

 

 

post #3881 of 5003

I figured out a way to go from partially liberated drivers to fully liberated drivers fairly safely using only one tool. However it takes awhile to complete and patience is key. It took me about two episodes of mad men to free the first driver.

 

I'll fully liberate the second driver tomorrow and take pictures of the process to post here.

post #3882 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BossBorot View Post

I figured out a way to go from partially liberated drivers to fully liberated drivers fairly safely using only one tool. However it takes awhile to complete and patience is key. It took me about two episodes of mad men to free the first driver.

 

I'll fully liberate the second driver tomorrow and take pictures of the process to post here.


 

Ahh, the suspense!  Sounds interesting!

 

Sounds a bit like digging out of prison with a spoon!?  tongue_smile.gif

 

post #3883 of 5003

Made a new cable for my grados today =D still waiting on my cups =(

 

IMG_0972.jpg

IMG_0974.jpg

post #3884 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

Made a new cable for my grados today =D still waiting on my cups =(


I love them Grado's, i just dont know how you'd where them 

 

post #3885 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

Made a new cable for my grados today =D still waiting on my cups =(

 

IMG_0972.jpg

IMG_0974.jpg


Cable looks great, but at the same time it looks rather inflexible, from the way it curves. That can get rather annoying, yes? I braided a cable out of SPC previously with similar results, ended up scrapping it for a Canare. Also, won't the viablue 3.5s make the cups rather weighty? IMO you could try neutrik 3.5s cut down to size (or even the right angles with the ground channel bent upwards) and simply covered with heatshrink, would save you a lot of space and look classier (:

 

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