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SR60-Mod - Page 249  

post #3721 of 5003



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat46734 View Post

I was actually considering installing wooden cups, removing loin cloth, poking holes, and dyanamating all to say the right driver and leaving the left driver stock and listening for about ten minutes in mono mode just so I can see the difference. Does this sound like a stupid idea?



Not at all, I use a similar method to evaluate all my mods.

 

post #3722 of 5003

Here's my latest project. Not exactly a Grado, but it's related so I thought it'd be ok to post it in this thread. They're Symphones Magnums V2 with CF cups. Had a tough time with it, but in the end I think they turned out alright. I've got a bunch of carbon fiber splinters and dust all over my body to show for it, too.

Cups.jpeg

Cups_Flash.jpeg

Driver_With_Cups.jpeg

Assembled.jpeg

Hanging.jpeg

Hanging_Flash.jpeg

 

Keep in mind it's hard to get a good picture of the carbon fiber. Without flash and it doesn't show the texture and the sheen, with flash it's too shiny and it doesn't look good either. I think they look pretty cool in person, but the I need to improve on some things. Future plans: possible silver recable, maybe dynamat the driver, maybe remake the cups with thicker walls or add a damping ring to the end of the cups (a ring of aluminum or something like that possibly), line the inside/outside of the cups with wood. What do you guys think? Comments and suggestions welcomed please!

 

Oh, and here's a sneak peak at my next project:

Carbon_Fiber_Cup_Top.jpeg

CF_Cup_Side.jpeg

 

Fully liberated Grado drivers with a full carbon fiber housing!

 

Again, please post suggestions on where I can improve, I'm eager to hear what you guys think.

post #3723 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandstefanwich View Post

Here's my latest project. Not exactly a Grado, but it's related so I thought it'd be ok to post it in this thread. They're Symphones Magnums V2 with CF cups. Had a tough time with it, but in the end I think they turned out alright. I've got a bunch of carbon fiber splinters and dust all over my body to show for it, too.

Cups.jpeg

Cups_Flash.jpeg

Driver_With_Cups.jpeg

Assembled.jpeg

Hanging.jpeg

Hanging_Flash.jpeg

 

Keep in mind it's hard to get a good picture of the carbon fiber. Without flash and it doesn't show the texture and the sheen, with flash it's too shiny and it doesn't look good either. I think they look pretty cool in person, but the I need to improve on some things. Future plans: possible silver recable, maybe dynamat the driver, maybe remake the cups with thicker walls or add a damping ring to the end of the cups (a ring of aluminum or something like that possibly), line the inside/outside of the cups with wood. What do you guys think? Comments and suggestions welcomed please!

 

Oh, and here's a sneak peak at my next project:

Carbon_Fiber_Cup_Top.jpeg

CF_Cup_Side.jpeg

 

Fully liberated Grado drivers with a full carbon fiber housing!

 

Again, please post suggestions on where I can improve, I'm eager to hear what you guys think.


I think, those look incredibly awesome.. But, how do they sound?

 

post #3724 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post




I think, those look incredibly awesome.. But, how do they sound?

 


 

I think they sound awesome, but I don't have the original cups for the V2s to compare (they are currently on their way to Symphones to be decked out with V3 drivers. It's been a while since I heard the stock V2s (sounds funny calling a custom modded headphone "stock")  so I can't compare them directly, but I enjoy the way these sound right now!

post #3725 of 5003


Both mahogany and walnut sound similar, they are cleaner and have a bit more 'air' to them through the mid and high frequency's also the bass has tighten up (I have 10 holes vented) over what I had with plastic. I went with walnut over mahogany because they have a bit more bass without losing the mid and upper range. I would say walnut would sit between rosewoods such as cocobolo, and mahogany. The beech cups would sit between maple and birch and I believe are often used in making drums... anyways they have a brighter presentation then the other too. I found that the mid bass had increased on par with the mahogany but not the sub bass so I didn't go with these. Please note that I only had limited listening time with these woods (including my walnut cups which I have only just finished) so take this for what it is. cheers. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaciekN View Post



 

Could you write some about why Walnut turned out superior to other woods you tried?

 



 


Edited by mouse6nelson - 5/9/11 at 4:36pm
post #3726 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post





Just poke the holes.. You can cover them back up if you need to :D



I will be doing .Just waiting for the Dynamat I ordered to be delivered :-) .

post #3727 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ib1dance View Post





I will be doing .Just waiting for the Dynamat I ordered to be delivered :-) .



You don't have to wait.. I wouldn't, if anything the dynamat cleans things up a bit.. It certainly doesn't increase the bass. Do whatever pleases you though.. :D

post #3728 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandstefanwich View Post

Here's my latest project. Not exactly a Grado, but it's related so I thought it'd be ok to post it in this thread. They're Symphones Magnums V2 with CF cups. Had a tough time with it, but in the end I think they turned out alright. I've got a bunch of carbon fiber splinters and dust all over my body to show for it, too.

 

Fully liberated Grado drivers with a full carbon fiber housing!

 

Again, please post suggestions on where I can improve, I'm eager to hear what you guys think.


 

What density CF is used ? In my cups I ended up with three layers of 175g per square meter, gave much better results than two layers formed into a longer shell. With full CF housing you must have enormous bass, especially since it looks like they are slightly longer than stock.  Your CF seems to have much thicker fibres, wall thickness also seems enormos compared to mine.

 

Great thanks mouse6nelson, you summarized what would be hours of reading and guessing. Pity your post can't be somehow highlighted as a wood picking guide.

post #3729 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaciekN View Post




 

What density CF is used ? In my cups I ended up with three layers of 175g per square meter, gave much better results than two layers formed into a longer shell. With full CF housing you must have enormous bass, especially since it looks like they are slightly longer than stock.  Your CF seems to have much thicker fibres, wall thickness also seems enormos compared to mine.

 

Great thanks mouse6nelson, you summarized what would be hours of reading and guessing. Pity your post can't be somehow highlighted as a wood picking guide.



I'm not actually sure on the density because I got the CF from friend who wasn't using it. It is really dense though, denser and less flexible than the average CF (that's why it was so hard to work with I think). On my hybrid aluminum/CF, the bass is deep and meaty without intruding on the mids. I really like it. I haven't been able to test out the full CF housing yet because those cups aren't done yet. The walls on that full housing are thicker than the walls on my alu/CF hybrid. I wish the walls on my Symphones cups turned out that thick too, but I think I will have to redo them to get them thicker. I might make them a little longer too, haven't decided yet. Also, in the preview pic of the full CF housing, the cup is longer than what it will eventually be. I'm not finished with the construction yet.

post #3730 of 5003

Ye, deep meaty bass that's not intruding mids, exactly how it worked for me. How do you make walls so thick? Is it your unusual CF that makes them so?  Mine are paper think in spite of three layers, they are stiff enough but they just look quite vulnerable.

post #3731 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaciekN View Post

Ye, deep meaty bass that's not intruding mids, exactly how it worked for me. How do you make walls so thick? Is it your unusual CF that makes them so?  Mine are paper think in spite of three layers, they are stiff enough but they just look quite vulnerable.



Yep, sounds like we have similar results! I'll probably bring these to the Boston meet at the end of this month if anyone around here is going to attend. I think it's just the thickness of my CF that makes them that thick. The wall for the liberated drivers is about 4 layers. The walls for my Symphones headphones is only about 2-3 layers, so it's not as thick as I'd like it. I think I will end up remaking those cups eventually, and I might try having the weave going the other direction. I suspect it will be easier to form that way. By the way, the CF walls are really strong. I tried standing and even jumping a little bit on the Grado shells, and they came out unscathed. I didn't try it with the Symphones shells because they're thinner, but I suspect the results would be similar (I tried compressing them with my hands, but not jumping on them).

post #3732 of 5003
Thread Starter 

The Baby Lather - Part II

 

I'm still learning the lathe but I wanted to share my next experiment with the great machine.  I wasn't able to find or rig up a claw or other device to get beyond the basic chucks that come with it - at least not locally.  There's some hardwire I could buy online but I'd have to wait for it to show up.  After tossing and turning on the matter, I came to the conclusion that I was doing some of my steps in the wrong order.  So, this time, I decided to go with the flow and I at least ended up with something to talk about.

 

Pine1.jpg

 

Here's a prototype.  I used pine, which is soft and inexpensive.  This piece could use more sanding and the lacquer job is terrible because I'm out of fresh brushes, but I'm just trying to get an idea here of what I can do with this machine.

 

Pine2.jpg

 

I set out to make a GS1000, but the mushroom top is more in line with the size of the Prestige-series Grados.

 

Pine3.jpg

 

The irony is that the shell may be a bit long for that diameter.  With a wider mushroom top, you can really sell the distance but with the more Prestige-sized diameter, I may have to cut the base down to something closer to 3/4".

 

Pine4 - Overhead.jpg

 

Even with all of its limitations (after all, consider who made it) I think it's all right.  The beveling, if that's the right term for it, helps break things up and - at least to my thinking - is a little easier on the eyes.  Give Grado credit for that.  For a truer GS1000-sized shell, I'll start with a piece that's 3 inches in diameter and work my way back.

 

I've got a lot to learn but I'm hoping to get there eventually.

post #3733 of 5003



looks good bill, I knew you would do good things once you got that lathe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

The Baby Lather - Part II

 

I'm still learning the lathe but I wanted to share my next experiment with the great machine.  I wasn't able to find or rig up a claw or other device to get beyond the basic chucks that come with it - at least not locally.  There's some hardwire I could buy online but I'd have to wait for it to show up.  After tossing and turning on the matter, I came to the conclusion that I was doing some of my steps in the wrong order.  So, this time, I decided to go with the flow and I at least ended up with something to talk about.

 

Pine1.jpg

 

Here's a prototype.  I used pine, which is soft and inexpensive.  This piece could use more sanding and the lacquer job is terrible because I'm out of fresh brushes, but I'm just trying to get an idea here of what I can do with this machine.

 

Pine2.jpg

 

I set out to make a GS1000, but the mushroom top is more in line with the size of the Prestige-series Grados.

 

Pine3.jpg

 

The irony is that the shell may be a bit long for that diameter.  With a wider mushroom top, you can really sell the distance but with the more Prestige-sized diameter, I may have to cut the base down to something closer to 3/4".

 

Pine4 - Overhead.jpg

 

Even with all of its limitations (after all, consider who made it) I think it's all right.  The beveling, if that's the right term for it, helps break things up and - at least to my thinking - is a little easier on the eyes.  Give Grado credit for that.  For a truer GS1000-sized shell, I'll start with a piece that's 3 inches in diameter and work my way back.

 

I've got a lot to learn but I'm hoping to get there eventually.



 

post #3734 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post





Just poke the holes.. You can cover them back up if you need to :D

 

Venting = improved clarity :-) + a more defined bass .

 

The shells came apart very smoothly after about 5 minutes of steam .

 

Initially I cut out two holes on one side and left the other as it was . I loaded up a music production program and Got a Bass drum , kick and snare playing  & sent a mono signal to the headphones .I was   blind testing to make sure that placebo wasn't driving my decision making process. I  kept swapping the headphone shells  around so I did not know which one had been vented(The only way I could tell  was by shinning a torch through the back of the shell).

 

On the first few listens I was certain which sounded best and correctly choose the vented shell.Though after further tests I could only detect a trace of something different between each driver,  it wasn't significant enough for me to accurate choose the vented shell .

 

So I decided to go for 4 holes thinking I'd cover them up with masking tape if I disliked any results . And that extra 2 holes made a clear &  noticeable improvement  of the overall performance of the vented shell . The bass was extended and more dynamic .The vented shell had a far more responsive attack, Decay ,Sustain and release of the Drums.The Slightly sibilant highs had become less noticeable as there volume was more balanced with the lows.Individual Rhythms were far more clearly focused as they had found more space to play .

 

More Thud but not Mud :-) .Less Glare and more sparkle :-) . << for the technically  learned .

 

I kept swapping the shells over randomly and it sounded 'clear' which was the vented shell . It was easy to tell the difference between the vented and non vented on my SR80i's .

So both shells now have 4 holes in each .whoa! I can really connect with these now. darthsmile.gif

 

 

 

.If anyone  does not hear the difference between vented and a non vented shell , try the feeling approach .

 

Listen to some music with Drums and Bass with a Fast Attack and release as they offer the most instant power .Close you eyes and focus on the  vibration.Feel the pressure waves increasing and decreasing in the inner ear.

 

The vented driver "pumps" more basshead.gif  . And it is a defined pump not a irregular OmphHHHhhhhh.

 



Thanks for the Tips Bilavideo and company :-)


Edited by ib1dance - 5/9/11 at 5:24pm
post #3735 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by schwallman View Post

 

looks good bill, I knew you would do good things once you got that lathe.


Thanks!  I appreciate your straight-talking feedback.  You helped me take the next step.

 

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