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SR60-Mod - Page 239  

post #3571 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post


we are on the same page.. except for the reterminating. You wouldn't have to do that if you had a two stage shell.. You would simply notch a place out for the cable on the inner shell.


Perhaps. Whem I had my new driver housings fabricated they put in a lip for the liberated driver to rest on. So I have to install the drivers from the top. In order to install the drivers without terminating the cable you would have to be able to install them from the rear which would just lead to other compications. The easiest way around the whole mess is to spend $15 to $20 on a soldering gun, some solder, and a desoldering wick at Radio Shack and add a new skill to your arsenal of awesomeness biggrin.gif

post #3572 of 5003

If you are going to liberate the drivers and not save the plastic just cut the plastic with something (wire cutters or even a dremel) then instead of trying to force the entire shell off at once you can take one section off at a time.

post #3573 of 5003

Mainly metal and classic rock i.e. male vocalists with gravelly voices. Im using flat pads btw

post #3574 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post




Perhaps. Whem I had my new driver housings fabricated they put in a lip for the liberated driver to rest on. So I have to install the drivers from the top. In order to install the drivers without terminating the cable you would have to be able to install them from the rear which would just lead to other compications. The easiest way around the whole mess is to spend $15 to $20 on a soldering gun, some solder, and a desoldering wick at Radio Shack and add a new skill to your arsenal of awesomeness biggrin.gif


gotcha

 

post #3575 of 5003

Thanks for the comments guys, yes they are all just one piece, I will most likely cut the cable up near the driver and use a mini XLR connector (if it fits in the cup nicely) or a 3.5ml mono jack. The other option would be to just completely re-cable the whole thing. I have done it with my Sennheiser's and its not very difficult.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

mouse6nelson, is that cup one piece including the part that holds the driver? looks very pro. me wants rolleyes.gif



 

post #3576 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPhyle View Post

I modified my set of SR 80's with the hole punch mod ( I originally punched all of them but then had to cover them up now i have 5 holes), the grill cloth mod, the felt around the chamber and some bluetack over the driver. Awesome results- More Bass, better HF clarity and a larger soundstage. The only issue I am having now is an overabundance of sibilance which I cannot seem to tame. Anyone have the same issue?


You mentioned that you have the SR80 (I'm assuming it's not the "i" model).  This might be the reason for the sibilence that you're hearing.  With the "i" series, I thought Grado tamed some of those issues with the highs.  Which pads are you using?

 

post #3577 of 5003
Really rough cut of my first Jatoba cup (yes only one) is done.

They sound... interesting. The highs get tamed, but there is little to nothing for bass changes (after a really quick listening test) They don't exactly fit snugly (still working on getting a good size rough cut pre sanding) and they don't sand all that well, but they work, and there is progress I wouldn't be seeing with my convoluted attempts at hole saws. I still think a lathe would have been a better option if I had a good one to use.

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post #3578 of 5003

OK here are some pics of the African Blackwood cups and the African Mahogany driver housings. Hopefully I will have some pics of an assembled pair sooner rather than later. I outsourced some aluminum gimbal rings and I just may need to give Big Bill a shout for one of those leather headbands.

 

 

 blackwood 005.JPG

 

blackwood 004.JPG

 

 

 

Iblackwood 010.JPG

post #3579 of 5003



looks nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

OK here are some pics of the African Blackwood cups and the African Mahogany driver housings. Hopefully I will have some pics of an assembled pair sooner rather than later. I outsourced some aluminum gimbal rings and I just may need to give Big Bill a shout for one of those leather headbands.

 

 

 blackwood 005.JPG

 

blackwood 004.JPG

 

 

 

Iblackwood 010.JPG



 

post #3580 of 5003

They look awesome, I love the dark African Blackwood!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

OK here are some pics of the African Blackwood cups and the African Mahogany driver housings. Hopefully I will have some pics of an assembled pair sooner rather than later. I outsourced some aluminum gimbal rings and I just may need to give Big Bill a shout for one of those leather headbands.

 

Iblackwood 010.JPG



 

post #3581 of 5003

Honestly I think the partial liberation is holding you guys back a little since you still have sound bouncing off the plastic covering the front of the driver.

post #3582 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

Honestly I think the partial liberation is holding you guys back a little since you still have sound bouncing off the plastic covering the front of the driver.


Who says I'm one of the hold-backs of partial liberation?  Bring it on.  All or nothing, baby! biggrin.gif

 

post #3583 of 5003


I have the SR-80i and im using flat pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




You mentioned that you have the SR80 (I'm assuming it's not the "i" model).  This might be the reason for the sibilence that you're hearing.  With the "i" series, I thought Grado tamed some of those issues with the highs.  Which pads are you using?

 



 

post #3584 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPhyle View Post


I have the SR-80i and im using flat pads



 

As one of our other posters indicated, what types of songs are you playing where you are noticing sibilience?
 

 

post #3585 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

Honestly I think the partial liberation is holding you guys back a little since you still have sound bouncing off the plastic covering the front of the driver.



this applies to me.

 

would it help to dynamat or put felt or foam to cover the plastic walls of the innies?

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