^ that would be one very, very long video. I think that the pictures plus the written explanation are enough.
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SR60-Mod - Page 24post #346 of 500310/13/10 at 6:32pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #347 of 500310/13/10 at 6:50pmThread Starter
I'll video tape the next project and then edit out the nonessential stuff. I have a feeling a video may be less imposing than a series of copious stills.post #348 of 500310/13/10 at 6:58pmpost #349 of 500310/14/10 at 12:54pmpost #350 of 500310/14/10 at 2:49pmThread Starterpost #351 of 500310/15/10 at 5:50am
Meh. Tried fixing my driver and failed pretty miserably. Apparently I have to get the thing open before I can even attempt at reconnecting the wire, and somehow my driver just refused to come out from its housing. How did any of you pry it out if the plastic is weaker than the glue holding the two pieces together? ><post #352 of 500310/15/10 at 8:58am
You have to go medieval on the driver. It's hard to explain, but once you do it, you'll understand. Don't give up yet. You want to pry it up, not to the side. Pry it up with all your strength. I used a hairdryer to keep it warm.post #353 of 500310/15/10 at 9:37ampost #354 of 500310/15/10 at 9:47am
Haha I've read the entire thread through more than once, still having problems>< Anything I take to the driver ends up bending the housing rather than prying it up. And didn't he said something about not going hog-wild. I tried the soft approach first, then realized that didn't work and went mad on it, only to have a few deformities on my driver and the realization that that wasn't going to work either.post #355 of 500310/15/10 at 4:00pmpost #356 of 500310/15/10 at 10:23pm
Sorry to go off topic a bit but if anyone was still interested it turns out that the new company JMoney was formally HeadCoverage. HeadCoverage is not the company that Majestic thought it might now be (but thanks a bunch for that link - interesting).
Here's a link to another thread here on head-fi: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/303289/jmoney-audio-formerly-known-as-headcoverage.
I'm impressed that the cost of JMoney products hasn't really increased in the years that I bought my cups, and it looks like options have increased..neat. But they may only be for those unable or unwilling to follow BilaVideo's excellent diy cup guide (which I now think I may be able to tackle). Cheers.post #357 of 500310/16/10 at 12:58amThread StarterMeh. Tried fixing my driver and failed pretty miserably. Apparently I have to get the thing open before I can even attempt at reconnecting the wire, and somehow my driver just refused to come out from its housing. How did any of you pry it out if the plastic is weaker than the glue holding the two pieces together? ><You have to go medieval on the driver. It's hard to explain, but once you do it, you'll understand. Don't give up yet. You want to pry it up, not to the side. Pry it up with all your strength. I used a hairdryer to keep it warm.Anything I take to the driver ends up bending the housing rather than prying it up. And didn't he said something about not going hog-wild. I tried the soft approach first, then realized that didn't work and went mad on it, only to have a few deformities on my driver and the realization that that wasn't going to work either.
It takes a very thin screwdriver, something closer to a jeweler's screwdriver though not quite that small. You have to get in and then work it hard enough to get a pop as you break the bond of the glue, which is not heat sensitive. Work the circle, wedging and popping as you go. The more thoroughly you do that, the more easily you'll be able to wedge and lift afterwards. I found that it helps to have a second screwdriver. This lets you work some leverage into it as you lift one area, then get under it with one screwdriver, while wedging up another area. As long as you don't pierce the driver, any wrinkles that you create in the driver can be pulled out safely with a bit of electrical tape lightly pressed onto the wrinkled area, then pulled off gently. On the one hand, it's surprising how easy it is for the diaphragm to get a wrinkle to its rippled surface. On the other hand, it's also surprising how easy it is to completely restore the driver with a little bit of tape.
post #358 of 500310/29/10 at 1:02am
A quick question, are the drivers used in the SR60, SR60i, SR80 and SR80i identical? The SR80 isn't known for being bass anaemic or anything of that sort, right? Because I just bought an SR80 driver from BobSaysHi to replace my busted SR60 one, and the contrast between the two couldn't be greater. The bass on the SR60 practically booms compared to the SR80, which has practically every bass frequency cut off, by more than 10dBs or so. The rest of the frequencies seem fine though. Pics below, in case I happen to have messed up anything while soldering.
Recabled with 4-braid SPC, Pailiccs 3.5mm and teflon mesh sleeving. Replaced the SR80 cup with the SR60 one for now before I get my woodies.
Right side (SR60 original driver, works fine)
SR80 Driver, note the identical Grado 32 on both.
Edited by Nightslayer - 10/29/10 at 7:54ampost #359 of 500310/29/10 at 8:56am
I've always thought that they were identical, however something is obviously different between the drivers. I know that Grado matches their drivers at the factory, that might account for the difference. Maybe Bilavideo will chime in, he's been offline for a couple weeks now.
Do my drivers really sound bass anemic? They've always sounded like that.post #360 of 500310/29/10 at 9:21am
One observation: it looks like there are holes in the paper covering the backside of the diaphragm of the SR80 driver. This changes the bass response, although most observers claim that this should increase the bass - see earlier (the first etc) posts in this thread.
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