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SR60-Mod - Page 213  

post #3181 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by alphones View Post

Nice job lawrywild... What type of wood did you go with on the inside and how do they sound?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post

Lawry, is the wood actually making a difference there?


Rosewood.

Haven't had much time to listen tbh, took me a whole day to do the modding and seal them back up when I should be studying for exams so not my top priority right now.

@apatN, any reason you don't think it would? That initial bit from the back of the driver plus the little bit more I left sticking out to top makes up over half the size of the whole chamber area, there's only pretty much a sliver of aluminium at the ends.

but yeah they sound a lot different. Can't give good impressions until I've given them a proper listen though.
post #3182 of 5003

 

Yeah! I covered the holes with a very thin sheet of felt. As I look at it  against the light it appears semi opaque as it used to be before had been popped. I left 4 holes in one and 3 in the other. The bass is a little fuller now and still punchy. I got my Grado in tune. Thanks for the help.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by abcray View Post

Thanks a lot guys,

I'll cover the holes gluing a with a thin felt on them, as a semi-permeable membrane. I think of letting two to four holes uncovered. I'll also stick Dynamat on the the back of the driver. I accept suggestions about the number of the holes I should leave regarding the use of l-cushions.




I'd say it is a combination of preference and how bowls fit your ears. The sit on some, while fitting around others. If they are around yours, it's probably similar to a comfy in distance, where if they're on your ear, it will add distance and reduce bass, warranting more bass.

I'm still at a big fat 0 on mine. Now that I actually hear a solution that makes sense if I want to go backwards, I'm willing to punch some holes. Still wanting to go all out with wood first. Seems like it would benefit more from a wooden shell than more rattling plastic.


 



Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




Don't use sticky felt - just buy a sheet of regular felt from Michael's - or another craft store for about $.30 cents.  Cut a circle to fit around the rear driver magnet and over the holes.  You can use a few small dabs of glue between the 10 holes that you opened up.  This should change the sound in an appreciable way.  I actually have a pair of SR225 headphones that Bill once modified and that's how he performed the mod.  Additionally, the sides of the plastic cup for the rear part of the drive were also lined in felt.

 

Good luck to you.  If you do think task, I'm sure you'll be more than pleased with what you'll begin to hear again.

 

Edit: Don't even think of covering any of those holes that you punched open with some Dynamat.  It will make the driver vibrate and rattle with distortion - something,  you really don't want to do.


 

 

post #3183 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

and all of a sudden you have a notion i pay 10 bucks a foot for my copper.

 

alright. Be happy with your strong accusations and wild assumptions. You'll go far in life my friend.

 

and I love how you call my trial and error snake oil but not offer any proper counter argument to support your case and kill mine.

 

Unchain - PM sent.

Sml1226 - PM sent.

 


Weren't you talking about the Cry TWcu wire earlier? That is $10 a foot for the same metal as Mogami wire that they freeze and claim is better. That is what I was referring to.

 

post #3184 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by alphones View Post

Nice job lawrywild... What type of wood did you go with on the inside and how do they sound?

 

 





Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post

Lawry, is the wood actually making a difference there?




Rosewood.

Haven't had much time to listen tbh, took me a whole day to do the modding and seal them back up when I should be studying for exams so not my top priority right now.

@apatN, any reason you don't think it would? That initial bit from the back of the driver plus the little bit more I left sticking out to top makes up over half the size of the whole chamber area, there's only pretty much a sliver of aluminium at the ends.

but yeah they sound a lot different. Can't give good impressions until I've given them a proper listen though.

 

I don't know, that's why I asked. ;-) I can understand that having a wood cup could change the sound because of how the wood resonates, but I was wondering how such a small piece of wood would have an effect on sound.
 

 

post #3185 of 5003

re read my posts and you won't see TWcu in any of them.

 

And TWcu is $5.80 a foot.

 

The most expensive copper I used was Silver plated copper at 1.60 a meter for 1 conductor. And I find Canare speaker and microphone cables to sound MUCH better and they're even cheaper as its star quad.

 

Whatever your reasoning, you've done a fair bit of assuming and have called me out on a lot of erroneous statements.

 

We've both derailed this thread long enough. I was just interested in having my question about silver and Grados answered.

 

Back to the mods people!!!

post #3186 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

 

Back to the mods people!!!


I'll agree.  All of this bickering has made me sort of lose some of my attention on the mods I should be focusing on.  wink_face.gif
 

 

post #3187 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by apatN View Post

I don't know, that's why I asked. ;-) I can understand that having a wood cup could change the sound because of how the wood resonates, but I was wondering how such a small piece of wood would have an effect on sound.


Everything has an effect, but it's not like switching a light on or off.  It's a seamless gradation.  The size of the cup is a factor, but so is its distance from the driver.  One reason I make a big deal about woodying up the primary stage or inner is that it brings this material closer to the driver.  Sound energy dissipates with distance.  The closer you can get your shell to the Ground Zero of the shell, the more you can get out of less.  

 

If I could, I would replace the plastic basket, holding the diaphragm in place, with metal or tonewood.  By the same token, if I could replace mylar with a light but durable replacement, I'd do that, too.  For now, I've got my hands full with other things, but I see no reason not to wish.  In fact, carbon fiber is probably the nirvana here.  With a velocity of sound 50% greater than beryllium - and about four times as fast as aluminum - a CF structure would be out of this world.

post #3188 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

In fact, carbon fiber is probably the nirvana here.  With a velocity of sound 50% greater than beryllium - and about four times as fast as aluminum - a CF structure would be out of this world.

 

I think I know just the individual who would be able to perform such a feat.  However, I don't know what his interests are in audio - or, taking headphones to that "next" level.  But, on the automotive side, he's provided a phenomenal set of various upgrades for Mazda sedans - and has backed it all up with sharing lots of his knowledge, just like you do, Bill.  The guy's full-time profession is designing robotics.  So, he has quite a bit of diversity in what he does.
 

 

post #3189 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

re read my posts and you won't see TWcu in any of them.

 

And TWcu is $5.80 a foot.

 

The most expensive copper I used was Silver plated copper at 1.60 a meter for 1 conductor. And I find Canare speaker and microphone cables to sound MUCH better and they're even cheaper as its star quad.

 

Whatever your reasoning, you've done a fair bit of assuming and have called me out on a lot of erroneous statements.

 

We've both derailed this thread long enough. I was just interested in having my question about silver and Grados answered.

 

Back to the mods people!!!



I see the error now I thought you were the one that had bought TWcu in the DIY wire thread but you were just inquiring. And I strongly disagree with the claim that silver plated wire sounds worse than Canare. I actually just went from Canare to navships silver plated wire and it is noticeably better. Also $5.80x4 + $22 a foot we were both wrong :D

post #3190 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post


3" if you're going for a GS1000/PS1000 mushroom top.

2 5/8" if you're going for a smaller version of the same, something more like the hammerhead of the SR325.

2 1/4" or 2 3/8" for for a second shell OD.  

2 3/8" makes a nice lip on a primary shell/inner.

2 1/4" makes a good OD for a primary shell/inner, as long as you're willing to sand it afterwards.

2 1/8" makes a 2" groove when creating a double-lip grip.

2" and 1 7/8" make a good combo for making a shelf, inside a second shell, so you can control how deep the inner goes.

1 7/8" makes a good ID for a cavity in an inner, to allow a partially-liberated driver (the driver cage) to be dropped into the inner.

1 2/3" makes a good ID for the inner.

1 5/8" makes a smaller hole for the rear grill, but if you use 1 5/8" on the ouside and either 1 2/3" or larger on the inside, you'll have a kind of paneling that frames the window, allowing you to lay the aluminum mesh up against it and anchor it in with a drop or two of quick adhesive.

 

Where sanding presents a pain (or at least an irregular reduction of off-sizes) non-standard hole saws can be special ordered.  A couple worth considering are 1 13/16" (as a compromise between 1 2/3" and 1 7/8") and 1 15/16" (as a compromise between 1 7/8" and 2").

 

When I first started making shells, it was simply a matter of running two hole saws, but with all of the lips, ridges and shelves, I find myself using a minimum of three per shell type, and often more than that to get as much out of the cut as possible.  A drill press is not going to offer the angled and curved cuts of a lathe, but there's less wood wasted in the process and - if you're patient - it's amazing what you can pull of with a drill press.


With all the wood you're cutting, and as hard as it is, are you just using bi-metal or do you have carbide tipped saws? I was reading when working with Jatoba (and I assume many near this hardness) carbide tipped saws should be used. I don't see any reason not to get them (other than the price) but if you've cut that many shells of all these different hardnesses, and you're only using bi-metal, I may just cheap out and get them instead since carbide is hard to find without a special order around here.
post #3191 of 5003


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 


Everything has an effect, but it's not like switching a light on or off.  It's a seamless gradation.  The size of the cup is a factor, but so is its distance from the driver.  One reason I make a big deal about woodying up the primary stage or inner is that it brings this material closer to the driver.  Sound energy dissipates with distance.  The closer you can get your shell to the Ground Zero of the shell, the more you can get out of less.  

 

If I could, I would replace the plastic basket, holding the diaphragm in place, with metal or tonewood.  By the same token, if I could replace mylar with a light but durable replacement, I'd do that, too.  For now, I've got my hands full with other things, but I see no reason not to wish.  In fact, carbon fiber is probably the nirvana here.  With a velocity of sound 50% greater than beryllium - and about four times as fast as aluminum - a CF structure would be out of this world.



hi bill just wondering if you have sent my driver yet. i know your extremely busy. 

thanks

can wait! :) 

post #3192 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesrfun1 View Post


 

hi bill just wondering if you have sent my driver yet. i know your extremely busy. 

thanks

can wait! :) 


You might want to PM Bill.  I've found that he's quite responsive during the evening hours when he's on the forum here.  Posting messages for him tends to get them buried with all the content being posted.
 

 

post #3193 of 5003

I just got back from the wood shop that's turning my Blackwood into some cups for me and making some driver housings out of African Mahogany. They had me come down and look at some mock ups they made out of some alternate wood. The good news is I think they are going to come out good. I'm starting to wish I didnt start this project though. Between the cost of the wood and the cost of getting it lathed, I'm starting to wonder what the end game is.

 

Part of it's always been the journey and it will continue to be, but I'm ready to explore beyond the Grado realm. So two of my three Grado's will be moving on at some point in the future. Maybe just one of three if I'm overwhelmed by how well they come together and decide I cant part with my HF2. Also if anyone is interested in a Porta Pro with silver cable PM me. 

post #3194 of 5003

Just got bowls to put on my fully modded sr60i's with 10 vent holes, THESE SOUND AWESOME WITH BOWLS :D

post #3195 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by TakashiMiike View Post

Just got bowls to put on my fully modded sr60i's with 10 vent holes, THESE SOUND AWESOME WITH BOWLS :D



by bowls you mean G-cush or the other one in the middle?

 

(flats - one in the middle (cups?) - bowls)

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