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SR60-Mod - Page 211  

post #3151 of 5003



no problem with lending the shells to you, glad I can help. I hope someone gets to enjoy them. Im sure everyone will enjoy them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Here is an HF2 version of an SR325.  Working out the logistics took me a while (with the freaking hole saw) and drove me a little nuts, but I wanted to put it up here.  I'm in the process of sending some version of this to different people.  I appreciate the patience of all who waited for me to get the specs right.  We just went through FCAT testing, and time has been a real "unobtainium" down here in downtown Pandora.

 

Special thanks to Shwallman who lent me his HF2 shell to give me a sense of perspective.  John, your graciousness will never be forgotten.

 

finished3.jpg

 

I finally found the right fit for the driver cage, which is great for partial liberation.  It's not so tight that it would stay in if you turned it upside down (a little adhesive or screws would come in handy) but it's pretty snug in the cavity and pretty flush with the face.

 

finished1.jpg

Driver Flush.jpg



 


Edited by schwallman - 4/18/11 at 8:55pm
post #3152 of 5003

Being that I am only at page 31 of 211, I will not finish this thread tonight.  Oh, but I will...it's another one of THOSE threads.

post #3153 of 5003
Recablers only!

Please give me opinions on whether copper or pure silver sounded better with the Grados?

Or a copper silver hybrid?
post #3154 of 5003

OK...so felt not Dynamat to cover the holes---check!

 

kneeljung found that info for us on Limba (once you go limba you'll never go back--LOL) and as he stated my original wood shells were Cocobolo which is excellent and I fully enjoyed listening with them in place, I switched to Limba when Bill sent me some shells without knowing what wood it was, I only switched because I liked the color of the wood and thought it would look awesome with the BBB headbands and it does, the bonus was they sounded even better! Thats when i asked Bill what type the wood was and found out it was limba.....my last name is Leinheiser so I'm 3L.... Leinheiser Loves Limba!!!!!  I sat last night for over an hour and listened to all kinds of different music including  classical and I could not find anything to even remotely complain about, or want to fix with these new cans-I'm very happy to be your ambassador of Limba!!

 

post #3155 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

Recablers only!

Please give me opinions on whether copper or pure silver sounded better with the Grados?

Or a copper silver hybrid?


It doesn't matter. If you're using 22AWG and thicker, that is. If you're looking at 24 or such then maybe the better conductivity of silver would be a benefit, but why go so thin with fullsized cans?

 

post #3156 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

Recablers only!

Please give me opinions on whether copper or pure silver sounded better with the Grados?

Or a copper silver hybrid?


The wire, itself, doesn't have a sound.  Its virtue is that of a conductor.  Silver conducts better than copper.  On the other hand, for the difference in price between them, you can double the copper and halve your impedance.  Where silver makes the most difference is in the HF.  There's a phenomenon/theory known as the "skin effect."  It says that the higher the frequency, the shallower the depth of penetration utilizing the conductive material.  This is the reason some prefer multiple high-gauge (skinnier) wires to fewer low-gauge (fatter) wires.  Much of this is religion, but what I do know is the difference I heard when I recabled in silver.  I found the improvement in detail to be too big to write off as a placebo.

 

Originally Posted by eclein View Post

OK...so felt not Dynamat to cover the holes---check!


Yeah, felt breathes.  It's used to absorb standing waves.

 

Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Here is an HF2 version of an SR325.  Working out the logistics took me a while (with the freaking hole saw) and drove me a little nuts, but I wanted to put it up here.  I'm in the process of sending some version of this to different people.  I appreciate the patience of all who waited for me to get the specs right.  We just went through FCAT testing, and time has been a real "unobtainium" down here in downtown Pandora.

 

Special thanks to Shwallman who lent me his HF2 shell to give me a sense of perspective.  John, your graciousness will never be forgotten.

 

Bill, what size saw is the one the driver (w/ cage) fits? Is it actually a 46mm saw? Seems to be what I'm measuring here for the diameter of it. I can't find a saw in that size anywhere though, so just wanting to confirm that.


And if you don't mind, what are your other commonly used ones? I've got to order some saws and just want to know what you're using.


3" if you're going for a GS1000/PS1000 mushroom top.

2 5/8" if you're going for a smaller version of the same, something more like the hammerhead of the SR325.

2 1/4" or 2 3/8" for for a second shell OD.  

2 3/8" makes a nice lip on a primary shell/inner.

2 1/4" makes a good OD for a primary shell/inner, as long as you're willing to sand it afterwards.

2 1/8" makes a 2" groove when creating a double-lip grip.

2" and 1 7/8" make a good combo for making a shelf, inside a second shell, so you can control how deep the inner goes.

1 7/8" makes a good ID for a cavity in an inner, to allow a partially-liberated driver (the driver cage) to be dropped into the inner.

1 2/3" makes a good ID for the inner.

1 5/8" makes a smaller hole for the rear grill, but if you use 1 5/8" on the ouside and either 1 2/3" or larger on the inside, you'll have a kind of paneling that frames the window, allowing you to lay the aluminum mesh up against it and anchor it in with a drop or two of quick adhesive.

 

Where sanding presents a pain (or at least an irregular reduction of off-sizes) non-standard hole saws can be special ordered.  A couple worth considering are 1 13/16" (as a compromise between 1 2/3" and 1 7/8") and 1 15/16" (as a compromise between 1 7/8" and 2").

 

When I first started making shells, it was simply a matter of running two hole saws, but with all of the lips, ridges and shelves, I find myself using a minimum of three per shell type, and often more than that to get as much out of the cut as possible.  A drill press is not going to offer the angled and curved cuts of a lathe, but there's less wood wasted in the process and - if you're patient - it's amazing what you can pull of with a drill press.

post #3157 of 5003
Nice so you found silver being a good match to the Grados warm signature. Ok I'll be making a silver copper hybrid with switchcraft and maybe oyaide connectors or full switchcraft. And the skin effect is attributed to strands. Which is why multiple strand count beats a fat solid core. I don't want to go pure silver as I'm afraid it'll bring back the sibilance in the Grados. I'm in the camp that wires have different sonic attributes. And I also believe in quality connectors. Though I can't afford a cable with full oyaide plugs =/
post #3158 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEE TEE View Post

Being that I am only at page 31 of 211, I will not finish this thread tonight.  Oh, but I will...it's another one of THOSE threads.


Oh come on Christian, you can sleep when you die! You can get caught up tonight. Of course the "problem" with this thread is that as you catch up there are ane 100 more... Billa never rest, the mad scientist is always working on something new in the laboratory. biggrin.gif
post #3159 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipsupt View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by CEE TEE View Post

Being that I am only at page 31 of 211, I will not finish this thread tonight.  Oh, but I will...it's another one of THOSE threads.




Oh come on Christian, you can sleep when you die! You can get caught up tonight. Of course the "problem" with this thread is that as you catch up there are ane 100 more... Billa never rest, the mad scientist is always working on something new in the laboratory. biggrin.gif
 


Exactly.  Personally, if I had that much reading to catch up on, I'd print out this whole thread and take it with me each time I went to the bathroom (or, the library) for reading catch-up time.
 

 

post #3160 of 5003
Nightslayer - simple. Because it's a portable can. If it were home use we could go all the way to 18awg. Wouldn't that be something eh? lol. Anyways I'm making sure my copper and silver stranded wires of choice match up in strand count. As you know the awg rating on most cables aren't quite spot on. The wires I used on the female jacks in my mod are 22awg copper from the canare 4s6. =D
post #3161 of 5003

I have to recommend navships 26awg silver plated 19 strand wire it is awesome and cheap. Sounds a lot better than the 20awg Canare I was using. And the best part it that it moves and bends and isn't rigid.

post #3162 of 5003
I use pure stranded silver. And cannot stand silver plated copper. Not trying to be a snob but good quality copper is much preferred over silver plated. I didn't realize how much I'd dislike it till I made an iem cable with it. And I used 24awg cable for the iem cable. It was really thick but there was no excuse for the SQ.
post #3163 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post

I use pure stranded silver. And cannot stand silver plated copper. Not trying to be a snob but good quality copper is much preferred over silver plated. I didn't realize how much I'd dislike it till I made an iem cable with it. And I used 24awg cable for the iem cable. It was really thick but there was no excuse for the SQ.

Why is pure copper preferred over silver plated copper? Could you give reasoning? Logically, wouldn't the silver just enhance the conductivity of the copper?
post #3164 of 5003

we would generally think so. i sure did thinking i was getting a great deal lol.

 

boy was i wrong. the sound was boomy and uncontrolled, and the highs were very bright. i disassembled the cable after a week and assembled a 29awg pure silver stranded cable reusing the same connectors and the sound was so damn different.

 

If you google you'll find some articles on why silver plated copper just isn't a good idea. I can't explain it as well, and I don't want to say something off the top of my head that would make this information less credible.

 

Have what you will, but I was in the same boat as you boys till I made the effort and did it myself. I love copper and I love silver, I hate that inbetween called SPC. =D

 

I've decided to make a hybrid. working out my design now.

post #3165 of 5003

Dynamat adds mass to the walls of air chamber making them less responsive to resonances. Since I could't find any dynamat in local stores and it felt too expensive to buy over the net I took different approach. I added absorption in the air chamber lining its walls with cotton- this absorbs low frequencies before they hit walls and does the same thing to resonances induced. What is more, it also absorbs higher frequencies which nearly removes echos behind the driver.ber 004.jpg

It's simple, it;s cheap, and what is most important: effective.

What it takes are 4 cotton cosmetic pads and scissors. Make a ring 5-7mm thick by cuttin out the mid (quarter moded cosmetic pads!) and then simply put them inside, one for inner chamber and one for outer. They need no glue, they just fit there and sit nicely.

Sonic effects? There is now much more information in bass department: you hear every detail of percussion, not just a vague bump. Mids are now more accurate as there is less reflections coming thru diaphgram, again more detail. Highs become less fatiguing though they are still far from neutral.

 

There was some discussion about angled Grados so I made "anglers" out of pizza box foam, just to experiment. This type of foam prooved not to be the best material as it has closed cells structure. It added some more bass but mids got lifeless. Sibilance settled in aswell. Generally it is like turning "contour" button on- more bass and stingy highs.ber 007.jpg

 

Now, to stay on topic: guess what's that

ber 010.jpg

Yep! It's carbon fiber. All I need now is to make a form and start to work with it.

 

 

PS. I know these aint SR60's but the general idea stays the same ;)

 

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