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SR60-Mod - Page 22  

post #316 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

..You can overheat the voice coil wire without melting the solder? And how do I get replacement drivers? :/


You may want to email Grado labs ,but they usually don't sell drivers ,you have to send them in for repair.Since you are in singapore that may be a

problem maybe Jaben can help you out. Or look for someone that has  a used driver.

How did you solder the wires on if  you didn't melt the solder? The voice coil wire connects to the pad under the white clob you see  in the pics you posted between the two cable wires on the driver.      .

post #317 of 5003

Nah my point was more of the only reason why I put the iron there for so long was due to the solder somehow taking an excessively long time to melt >< is it worth the cost sending SR60s in for repair? :/

 

EDIT: Hmm I'm thinking of opening up the part that protects the voice coil wire and reattatching it manually, anyone knows what the inside of the driver looks like?


Edited by Nightslayer - 10/9/10 at 12:40am
post #318 of 5003

DB


Edited by apatN - 10/9/10 at 4:47am
post #319 of 5003

I am 99% sure you will fail doing so.. frown.gif


The next time you are going to recable put some solder on your iron prior to desoldering the wires. The melted solder will stick to the solder on the pads and in turn will melt it a lot faster. Then if you want to solder on your new wires use some flux.

post #320 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

 

 

EDIT: Hmm I'm thinking of opening up the part that protects the voice coil wire and reattatching it manually, anyone knows what the inside of the driver looks like?


I took my driver apart to look at it ,you cannot do it without destroying the driver.You will need another driver.
 

post #321 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

Nah my point was more of the only reason why I put the iron there for so long was due to the solder somehow taking an excessively long time to melt >< is it worth the cost sending SR60s in for repair? :/

 

EDIT: Hmm I'm thinking of opening up the part that protects the voice coil wire and reattatching it manually, anyone knows what the inside of the driver looks like?

 

The inside of the driver is amazingly simple.  A pre-stamped piece of mylar is glued to a plastic frame whose radial holes are the ones covered in felt  on the back, the same holes vented for greater bass.  This diaphragm is centered over three pieces: a magnet, which is held onto a magnet plate solely by the magnetic force of the magnet, and a voice coil of copper wire which is held in place by being wedged into the lateral gap between the outside edges of the magnet and the interior edges of the magnet plate.

 

A single wire runs from one of the terminals, across the front of the driver (just under the diaphragm) to the voice coil, the top of which sticks to the center bubble of the diaphragm.  The other end of the coil grounds to the magnet plate, which is what you're actually making contact with when you wire up the other terminal.

 

In soldering, it's important to be careful not to overheat an area.  You want your soldering iron to have a moderate wattage and heat.  It's also good to employ a heat sink.  Finally, when you heat up the tip, you should first apply some solder.  You should then heat up the wire you will be soldering to.  Then, you should prepare the area that you're soldering onto.  You do not want to go cheap and try to reuse the solder that is on the pad.  If you heat the pad too much, you will liquify any solder or glue attaching the pad to the wire beneath.  It's very easy to destroy the pad or to destroy the connection.  It's also quite frustrating.  Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt.  If nothing else, beware of the tip.  It's not a good idea to use it as a dart.


Edited by Bilavideo - 10/9/10 at 9:40am
post #322 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 If nothing else, beware of the tip.  It's not a good idea to use it as a dart.


lol

post #323 of 5003

Oops. The hotter-the-better mentality prevailed when I was buying my iron, mine's a 60W >< I got sick of nothing melting when I was using the 20W I had previously. And so are you saying... it's possible to fix? biggrin.gif

post #324 of 5003

I'm not sure if it was in this post by someone else or when I searched SR60 on the site but someone did remove the film and reattach a broken wire.

 

 

post #325 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

Oops. The hotter-the-better mentality prevailed when I was buying my iron, mine's a 60W >< I got sick of nothing melting when I was using the 20W I had previously. And so are you saying... it's possible to fix? biggrin.gif


It's a major pain and there's always the chance you'll destroy your driver, though if you're at this point, what do you have to lose?  

post #326 of 5003

Yeap exactly. Hmm I should attempt that! Will update youall on the result.. when I come by the time to do it. I think I may remove the white thing and use a tweezer to drag out the wire and attach it to the relevant joint.. Billa from your knowledge of the innards do you think it will work?

post #327 of 5003

crap.  i was taking apart the driver from the housing and instead the magnet+voice coil came off...

is this still fixable, or are my Grados dead?

post #328 of 5003

I'd say they are dead.

post #329 of 5003

Dang, I just killed a sr80i driver. I think I should be mad, however I no longer listened to them. Anyone want to purchase one working driver and whats left of my sr80i's?

post #330 of 5003

Haha Bila, I think you should add a specific disclaimer in your first post. ;-) Ah, I have been there as well. Killed two MS-1 drivers already.

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