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SR60-Mod - Page 209  

post #3121 of 5003

After about 4 months of use and modding I'm beginning to notice some grattle on my right side, just a slight buzzing occasionally, I'm going to guess this is the vibration of the plate that we have been discussing this last page or so.

 

Yet another excuse to order some damplifier butyle mat from secondskinaudio to do up my civic with.

 

Enjoying music: necessary to sanity

Using the need for 10cents of material to justify a $60 purchase for your car audio system: priceless

 

Also: Bill: I love that new cup design, with the narrower outer dimension and the big fat rs1-ish look to the top, I may have to give that a shot in my "spare time" (the time between the end of spring term and the start of summer term) with some red oak (because I'm still too cheap to try more expensive wood)

 

I have a proposition for anyone on the site with flats (or maybe even modded comfies, I'm not sure). I have a pair of bowls, and I love the airy sound, but they hurt my ginormous elf ears. So I want to try some modded flats, hoping to keep that sound and set my pained ears at ease, and I am wondering if anyone is open to a trade, or the sale of their foams?

post #3122 of 5003
Has anyone ever tried a impedance adapter on their Grados? I know Etymotic makes the 75 ohm adapter to turn the ER-4P into the ER-4S, I have to wonder how well such an adapter would work with Grados, given their low impedance. I've heard of people using them on the PortaPros and the KSC75, but not on Grados. I might make one, maybe 100-200 ohms and try it with my Grados. With the Koss, people claim tighter lows and low-mid. With amplification, the extra resistance shouldn't be problem...any thoughts on this?
post #3123 of 5003

I have been wondering the same thing for a while. It is not hard to build at all, so just do it and share your thoughts with us. :-)

 

Okay, I have one thing to throw in. If you add resistance to your cable then your amp will behave differently, or so I suspect. This could well change the sound, but I don't know.
 

post #3124 of 5003

(

 

cocobolo-usb.jpg

Cocobolo USB stick.

 

)

post #3125 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post

I have been wondering the same thing for a while. It is not hard to build at all, so just do it and share your thoughts with us. :-)

 

Okay, I have one thing to throw in. If you add resistance to your cable then your amp will behave differently, or so I suspect. This could well change the sound, but I don't know.
 


I would imagine that for one, volume will be reduced, which would result in more play with the volume knob on the amp. More importantly, and what the Koss guys seem to think, is hearing an increase of dynamics and a tightening of the lower end.

What I'll do is snag a jack and plug and set them up on my breadboard, then test different metal-film resistors in between them. I'll post my results when I get around to conducting such a test.
post #3126 of 5003

Hi friends.

I always wanted to add more bass to my SR 225i cans.

Last night I opened up  those and popped the ten venting holes of each. I was too agressive and should have done only to four of those. Now the sound is too bassy, muddy  with loss of details. Is it what is called "canny" resonance? 

I regret for what I did and I wish I could fix it. What about dumping the back of the drivers and inside of the cups with Dynamat or adhesive felt? What if I found a thin layer of paper similar to those that had been  popped and glued over  the holes? What if I changed the L-cushions to the G-cushions, the sound would be softer, less bassy?  Has anyone ever done it? I´m desperate. Please help me. Thanks.

post #3127 of 5003

This thread makes me sad. I miss listening to my Grados. Its been more than 5 weeks now. Guess its good I've been super busy lately.


 

post #3128 of 5003

 

OK guys, help me with my wood (pun intented indeed)

 

I need to decide wood for my future cups.

 

 

For that here some info I dug up from the thread and some images. hopefully to make easier to me and probably others to chose.

 

 

 

Quote: somebody posted this back in this thread

tone.jpg

backandsidewoods.jpg
 

 

 

I also have a list of available types of wood and picts courtesy of google:

 

 

 

Cocobolo wood (Click to show)

 

lgBowlCocobolo.jpg

cocobolo.jpg
350%20-%20Cocobolo%20Bowl%2011x11x5%20%20$400.jpg

 

 

 

 

East Indian Rosewood (Click to show)

 

 

east_indian_rosewood_tile.jpg

8-6-09%20East%20Indian%20Rosewood%20-2.jpg
e.i.+rosewood+bowl3.jpg

 

 

 

 

Bloodwood (Click to show)

 

neck-bloodwood.jpg

MTD%20535%20Bloodwood.jpg

 

 

 

 

African Padauk (Click to show)

 

AfricanPadauk.jpg

2a8727793bf2c5d9ac5f02e86cc36a7d.image.300x200.jpg
esw9b.jpg

 

 

 

 

Mahogany (Click to show)

 

Swietenia_macrophylla_wood.jpg

 
bowl%20-%20mahogany%20thick%20base.jpg
 
mahogany.jpg

 

 

 

 

White Limba wood (Click to show)

limba,%20korina%20guitar%20blank%201%20closeup%20web.jpg

 
the-ghost-prototype1.jpg
 
161949b2c82e5648d.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Bolivian Rosewood (Click to show)

bolivian_rosewood_title.jpg

bolivian%20rosewood%202819%20(4).jpg

Bolivian_Rosewood_pen_blanks.jpg

 

 

 

Maple (Click to show)

big_leaf_maple_title.jpg

 
curly_maple_sale.jpg
Maple%20Wood%20Mushroom%20Head%20Furniture%20Button%20(51).JPG

 

 

 

Walnut (Click to show)

black walnut

Walnut%20Wood%20Sample.jpg
 
yinyang1_op_341x289.jpg
 
solid%20stock%20walnut%20wood%20bowls.jpg
 
 

 

 

 

Koa (Click to show)

koa%20wood%20picture.jpg

 
94.jpg
 
KoaBowl050404_3.jpg
 
jason-dc127koa2.jpg

 

 

 

 

feel free to correct me or ad more if you wish.

 


Edited by JamesMcProgger - 4/18/11 at 3:32pm
post #3129 of 5003

I'd love to see a Koa set of cans I've heard good things about it.

post #3130 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post

I have been wondering the same thing for a while. It is not hard to build at all, so just do it and share your thoughts with us. :-)

 

Okay, I have one thing to throw in. If you add resistance to your cable then your amp will behave differently, or so I suspect. This could well change the sound, but I don't know.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by unchain View Post

Has anyone ever tried a impedance adapter on their Grados? I know Etymotic makes the 75 ohm adapter to turn the ER-4P into the ER-4S, I have to wonder how well such an adapter would work with Grados, given their low impedance. I've heard of people using them on the PortaPros and the KSC75, but not on Grados. I might make one, maybe 100-200 ohms and try it with my Grados. With the Koss, people claim tighter lows and low-mid. With amplification, the extra resistance shouldn't be problem...any thoughts on this?

Me three. Been wondering for ages. I have a Darkvoice 336SE which is a pretty powerful amp so I'm really tempted to try one out.
post #3131 of 5003
500

So the pics should tell the whole story....

500
500
500
500
500
500
500
500
500
500
500


They look better in real life than the pics (due to the flash) smily_headphones1.gif Yeah there's some tiny bits of red left but only underneath and inside where it's not visible or noticeable so overall really happy. I did the brushed effect using a kitchen scouring pad and going in a steady circular motion.

Edited by lawrywild - 4/18/11 at 4:26pm
post #3132 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by abcray View Post

Hi friends.

I always wanted to add more bass to my SR 225i cans.

Last night I opened up  those and popped the ten venting holes of each. I was too agressive and should have done only to four of those. Now the sound is too bassy, muddy  with loss of details. Is it what is called "canny" resonance? 

I regret for what I did and I wish I could fix it. What about dumping the back of the drivers and inside of the cups with Dynamat or adhesive felt? What if I found a thin layer of paper similar to those that had been  popped and glued over  the holes? What if I changed the L-cushions to the G-cushions, the sound would be softer, less bassy?  Has anyone ever done it? I´m desperate. Please help me. Thanks.

abcray-I think if you now cover each hole with Dynamat you can reverse your errant hole punching.

             I personally haven't done it so somebody chime in to help our friend here...you just cover up the holes...
 

 

post #3133 of 5003
^ Yeah just cover the holes back up with something semi-permeable like felt or masking tape.
post #3134 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by unchain View Post

Has anyone ever tried a impedance adapter on their Grados? I know Etymotic makes the 75 ohm adapter to turn the ER-4P into the ER-4S, I have to wonder how well such an adapter would work with Grados, given their low impedance. I've heard of people using them on the PortaPros and the KSC75, but not on Grados. I might make one, maybe 100-200 ohms and try it with my Grados. With the Koss, people claim tighter lows and low-mid. With amplification, the extra resistance shouldn't be problem...any thoughts on this?


good question :) The new portable amp up for review on the front page  (i think its a musical paradise) has a feature to switch to outputting 75ohm. I'm thinking the grado's could potentially benefit from this if using an amp as well.

post #3135 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild View Post

^ Yeah just cover the holes back up with something semi-permeable like felt or masking tape.


x2. However, abcray, I suggest that you cover the back of the magnet and anywhere you can on the back plate where the holes are (not too sure how easy this part is to do, I've seen a few people do it). But, definitely at least get yourself a couple pieces of dynamat for the back of the magnet before you start closing up holes. I'm finding my cans a bit bloaty with only 4 holes and no dynamat. Also, I would think you should use something like a thin felt if you are going to recover all the holes. I seen no problem with using dynamat for covering a few, but I wouldn't expect it to sound too good if you used something solid to cover up all the vents. I think i'm making sense...

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