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SR60-Mod - Page 21  

post #301 of 5003

Hi all,


I have just modded my SR60's as a result of this inspiring thread.  I removed the grille clothe, dampened the magnet and back side of the button, and punched all 10 holes in the clothe around the driver with a pen.  Note to others who haven't done this yet, maybe don't punch all 10 holes right away.  Total modification time, around 2 hours.  Most of this was spend reheating my tea pot, adding water to the pan, and worrying about whether I was wrecking any electronics.

 

On to my emotional first time reaction when trying out the modded cans...SERIOUSLY!!!!  What in the world happened here!  Completely different headphones.  That is a lot of bass!!  I'm thinking I should have poked only 4 or 5 holes.  I may go back in and cover up a few.  This is a huge increase in bass, especially in the mid-bass region which can prove to be too much on certain tracks.  Wow, do these things have a lot of kick now. 

 

The added warmth is nice.  As well, there is slightly more detail in the mids and highs, which is great.  And this was completely free. 

 

The really interesting thing here is that the soundstage feels increased big-time.  In fact, I never really noticed much of a soundstage with these cans before.  Now, these really capture me with a lot more depth and width.  There is also a new airyness to the sound.  Kind of an open, breathy, delicate type of thing.  But they still retain most of the Grado attack and punch.  These now sound like a really pricey pair of cans. 

 

My initial listening setup for the night was an Apple Airport Express>Little Dot MKIII with 6J1P-EV driver tubes>modded SR60's.  The 6J1P-EV tubes add some increased bass, and with my newly modded SR60's, this is actually too much bass for my liking.  I think I'll pop my Mullard drivers back in and see if I can find perfection.  Next I plugged the SR60's straight into my headphone out of my Ipod Touch 3rd Gen.  This is REALLY nice.  I can't believe how great this sounds.  Playing with EQ FLAT, everything pretty much sounds exactly like it should.  Bass is almost too much, but not quite.  I can't believe unamped sounds this good, perhaps better than going through the tube amp.  The only thing the tube amp improves on is added sub-bass, but that could be just the specific tubes that I'm using. 

 

I'm trying to think of how this modification may have negatively affected the new sound signature.  The really fast mid-range may have slightly less attack than normal.  Not sure though.  This may be just because the bass is increased now, giving the impression of slightly lesser mid-range attack.  Who knows...anyway, this makes me want to know what I can all do to my DT880's in the bass region.

 

Excellent money-saving thread here.

post #302 of 5003

Like the above headfier, I decided to mod my SR60's after reading this thread. Below are a couple of  picture's of the my finished modded SR60's.

 

DSC02401.JPG

 

Mods,

Grado Bowls

Jmoney V2 headband

Recable with Canare Star Quad

Red tape on Right cable

Removed outside grill clothe

5 holes punched through on inner clothe

Speaker housing and magnet damped using sticky foam pads

New mesh without button

Respray of plastic parts,damping material and mesh grill


Edited by harj - 10/5/10 at 3:36pm
post #303 of 5003

I forgot to mention that I already had Grado bowl pads that have been "electrical tape" modded for increased bass.  If I find the bass too much now I will just take off this tape and see if that brings down to proper levels. 

post #304 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

Braiding wires is completely necessary.



Oh please...

post #305 of 5003

^ Enlighten me apatN. I haven't actually braided wires, but I read that braiding was to reduce interference. 

post #306 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Yeah, I've read the same thing, though braids are nice either way.  I think they look elegant.  Also, from a practical point of view, I'd rather go 721 on my cable than just have straight wire dangling.  I never did understand the theory of how braiding resists interference, but when I went to buy silver wire, it was actually less expensive braided.  That made going braided a complete no-brainer.

post #307 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by harj View Post

Like the above headfier, I decided to mod my SR60's after reading this thread. Below are a couple of  picture's of the my finished modded SR60's.

 

DSC02401.JPG

 

Mods,

Grado Bowls

Jmoney V2 headband

Recable with Canare Star Quad

Red tape on Right cable

Removed outside grill clothe

5 holes punched through on inner clothe

Speaker housing and magnet damped using sticky foam pads

New mesh without button

Respray of plastic parts,damping material and mesh grill


Very cool!

post #308 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by harj View Post

Like the above headfier, I decided to mod my SR60's after reading this thread. Below are a couple of  picture's of the my finished modded SR60's.

 

DSC02401.JPG

 

Mods,

Grado Bowls

Jmoney V2 headband

Recable with Canare Star Quad

Red tape on Right cable

Removed outside grill clothe

5 holes punched through on inner clothe

Speaker housing and magnet damped using sticky foam pads

New mesh without button

Respray of plastic parts,damping material and mesh grill


Very pretty.  Any impressions?

post #309 of 5003

Looks fantastic! Very professionally done.

post #310 of 5003

I did the hole mod 5 on each side yesterday (used hairdryer to open them way faster took 3 min for both cans) then I dampened with the back side of some calf skin on the back of the button. As far as I can tell they do have more "punch" to the base but I doubt that I am getting as much as some one with SR60i's I have the original SR60. All in all not at all A bad mod and it is free. I would love to put some other pads on it if there is an educated opinion as to which is the best option (Sound first, Comfort second, Durability and cost Last) 

post #311 of 5003

If you haven't modded the comfies, and you are not scared of treble, cut the holes in them.  They don't sound right with the foam in front of the driver.

post #312 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Comfies are cheap.  With a quarter mod, they sound quite good.  Bowls give you that balance between decent bass and soundstage.  You get more highs will bowls but the bass is not as strong and thumpy.  If you want a direct shot to great bass, flats do it in a heartbeat.  The problem with flats is the shrunken soundstage.  Flats can sometimes come off as muted.  When I had flats, I would nip around the inside ring to bring out more HF.  Just be careful in doing so.  If you nip too far, you lose some of the cool warmth and thump of having flats in the first place.  Jumbos provide the largest soundstage but they put the most demands on bass.  If you have an amp with a decent bass boost, you can balance this out and get the best of both worlds.  Otherwise, the jumbo effect may be soundstage overkill, sort of like listening to the K701 without the right amp.

post #313 of 5003

Today I did a recable of my Grados, with 4-braided SPC.

DSC05651.JPG

Problem is... the left side doesn't work. I completely don't get why. I checked, double-checked and resoldered the connection at the plug, and I'm sure it's not a short cos the right side works perfectly well. The wires were all labelled for left and right so I know it's not a miswiring (I reversed the ground-active wires to doublecheck and it didn't work either). Pics are below, help would be appreciated (: I'm exasperated and annoyed at having destroyed my 100$ headphone ):

DSC05645.JPG

Left labeled blue, right labeled red.

DSC05648.JPG

DSC05646.JPG

Beside the ground connection you can see the place where I accidentally dripped liquid solder from the wire onto the enclosure and had to fish it out with the soldering iron, hence burning the plastic beside the felt. Might that have spoilt or busted the drivers? To the best of my knowledge no solder was left inside.

post #314 of 5003

Sounds like you will need a new driver,I did the same thing,I must have left the soldering Iron on the joint to long & overheated the voice coil wire(very thin).

I replaced the driver & that took care of the problem.Sounds like you did the same.

 

post #315 of 5003

..You can overheat the voice coil wire without melting the solder? And how do I get replacement drivers? :/

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