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SR60-Mod - Page 198  

post #2956 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post


Better copyright that. I bet Grado will have some mahogany versions for $200 soon enough.


 


Good point!  Actually, I had to e-mail them last evening with a few questions, so I included the same picture in my e-mail to them.  I got a response back today and they indicated they loved the license plate frame.

 

Mahogany on a license plate frame would be hard to up-keep ... with the UV elements, etc.  One would have to apply a fresh coat of Minwax's Helmsman every year as it's designed for outdoor use on wood and protects against UV damage, etc.

 

However, get this.  My Grado SR325i "Goldies" have been experiencing an issue with the right driver not delivering the same level of percussion, vocals, etc. - as the left driver.  I told Grado about the damping mods that were applied to the cup area of the headphones.  They said they didn't have any issue with that and to send the headphones in along with $45.00 and they'll fix all that needs to be fixed - and, provide a 2-week turn-around.  I'm heading to the Post Office now to get a money order and a Priority Mail box so I can get these in the mail to them tomorrow.   They are truly an amazing group to work with.

 

 

 

post #2957 of 5003

Gals and Guys,

 Tell me what you think of this idea...

I offer up for sale a modders kit that includes:

1) Unmodded pair of SR60's

2) Coccobolo shells made by Bilavideo

3) Some Dynamatt

4) Replacement screens also made by Bilavideo

 

For someone who would like to mod a pair from scratch, it has all the stuff needed

to do just that. I was thinking like $90, what do you guys think?? Good idea? Bad idea?

 Thanks

 Ed

post #2958 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Gals and Guys,

 Tell me what you think of this idea...

I offer up for sale a modders kit that includes:

1) Unmodded pair of SR60's

2) Coccobolo shells made by Bilavideo

3) Some Dynamatt

4) Replacement screens also made by Bilavideo

 

For someone who would like to mod a pair from scratch, it has all the stuff needed

to do just that. I was thinking like $90, what do you guys think?? Good idea? Bad idea?

 Thanks

 Ed


I might have jumped on that deal when I was looking for phones. Not quite up to the 125 in driver performance, so I'm glad I did end up where I am, but I think it's a good idea. You could probably raise it up to the price of a new SR80/MS1 and not have anybody complain though. It's still going to be an improvement over them.
post #2959 of 5003

Thanks...if I do it I'll offer to eveybody here first.....I'm still thinking about it, add ins, Hell I don't know!!! LOLdarthsmile.gif

post #2960 of 5003

I need some soldering tips / help confused.gif

 

First I guess I need a soldering iron, I can run down to Walmart for that..what else should I get besides some solder?

 

Lot's of other questions too:

 

1) how hot should I get the iron?

2) what's the best way to get the old solder off?

3) Is there anything I should do to prep the iron?

4) what else do I not know that I dont know?

 

I'm going to practice on my Porta Pro's

 

I just snapped out the drivers and popped off the little plastic piece that covers the connections. With the driver face down there is a little red dot next to the connection on the right. I'm assuming that's positive and the other one is the ground.

 

The new cable is going to be the 4 braided silver one I had on my 60's. I didnt do the solder work but with the 60 driver face down which contact is positive and which one is the ground? 

 

 

post #2961 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post


Better copyright that. I bet Grado will have some mahogany versions for $200 soon enough.
 



 


 

Just imagine what the frame would do to the sound of the exhaust if it was Cocobolo.

 

 

 

And KneelJung I wouldn't buy a soldering iron from walmart... You can get decent cheap soldering irons at electrical specialty stores look for ones with very narrow tips they are better for electronics (the no name from an electronics store is better than the no name from walmart/hardware store).

post #2962 of 5003


Sounds like an absolute steal. Fantastic idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Gals and Guys,

 Tell me what you think of this idea...

I offer up for sale a modders kit that includes:

1) Unmodded pair of SR60's

2) Coccobolo shells made by Bilavideo

3) Some Dynamatt

4) Replacement screens also made by Bilavideo

 

For someone who would like to mod a pair from scratch, it has all the stuff needed

to do just that. I was thinking like $90, what do you guys think?? Good idea? Bad idea?

 Thanks

 Ed



 

post #2963 of 5003

Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Gals and Guys,

 Tell me what you think of this idea...

I offer up for sale a modders kit that includes:

1) Unmodded pair of SR60's

2) Coccobolo shells made by Bilavideo

3) Some Dynamatt

4) Replacement screens also made by Bilavideo

 

For someone who would like to mod a pair from scratch, it has all the stuff needed

to do just that. I was thinking like $90, what do you guys think?? Good idea? Bad idea?

 Thanks

 Ed


seriously? that seems like a helluva deal. 

 

post #2964 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I need some soldering tips / help confused.gif

 

First I guess I need a soldering iron, I can run down to Walmart for that..what else should I get besides some solder?

 

Lot's of other questions too:

 

1) how hot should I get the iron?

2) what's the best way to get the old solder off?

3) Is there anything I should do to prep the iron?

4) what else do I not know that I dont know?

 

I'm going to practice on my Porta Pro's

 

I just snapped out the drivers and popped off the little plastic piece that covers the connections. With the driver face down there is a little red dot next to the connection on the right. I'm assuming that's positive and the other one is the ground.

 

The new cable is going to be the 4 braided silver one I had on my 60's. I didnt do the solder work but with the 60 driver face down which contact is positive and which one is the ground? 

 

 


I'm no expert, so it's not really a direction, more of a "I do it this way,"
1) I just use whatever heat the 15W at RadioShack goes to
2) Extra flux and a desoldering braid are your best bet to remove old stuff
3) To prep it, get it hot, then melt some solder over the tip (tinning it) and remove the excess
4) Don't do that any time other than to tin it though as it will not flow properly into the joint. So basically, place the solder on the wire or pad and wait for it to flow rather than melting it off the iron.

Red is usually signal and black, white, or blank is usually a ground (at least on all the speakers I've seen).

If you don't have a multimeter, it's a good investment here. If you do and it has a continuity check, you can see which goes to the ground and which to signal on the TRS plug.
It is ground on the left, with the pads nearest to you (felt on the far side, solder pads near you) when facing mylar down. For stock wiring, blue=gnd=left, white/red=signal=right
post #2965 of 5003

I'd be all over that...right about now!

 

You run this idea by Bill yet?  

post #2966 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I need some soldering tips / help confused.gif

 

First I guess I need a soldering iron, I can run down to Walmart for that..what else should I get besides some solder?

 

Lot's of other questions too:

 

1) how hot should I get the iron?

2) what's the best way to get the old solder off?

3) Is there anything I should do to prep the iron?

4) what else do I not know that I dont know?

 

I'm going to practice on my Porta Pro's

 

I just snapped out the drivers and popped off the little plastic piece that covers the connections. With the driver face down there is a little red dot next to the connection on the right. I'm assuming that's positive and the other one is the ground.

 

The new cable is going to be the 4 braided silver one I had on my 60's. I didnt do the solder work but with the 60 driver face down which contact is positive and which one is the ground? 

 

 

 

To answer your questions:

 

1) You can get a 40-watt model.  Usually. Home-Depot or Lowes sells a 40-watt Weller soldering iron, a small roll of solder and a tool to work with to hold your wire in place while performing the work.  The cost should be around $15.00.  15-watt models are available as well as 25-watt, I believe from Radio Shack. However, those models seemed to take too long to melt the solder for my impatient self.

 

2) Head to Radio Shack and buy a small roll of the copper braid, which is designed for "absorbing" the solder that you'll soften up with your soldering iron.  This small roll should be only about $4.00.  Use about 1" at a time and cut off the copper braid that has absorbed the solder and then hardened up.  This will ensure you have a fresh piece at the end ready to suck up more solder.

 

3) No prepping should be required.  The iron might come with 2 tips.  A very skinny one and a fatter one.  Use the one that you feel most comfortable with - they are usually just held in place with a small phillips screw.

 

4) Use the soldering iron in a safe area where you have lots of room to work.  The iron might also come with a small metal stand where you can set the tip on while the iron is heating up and being used.  Be careful not to push any papers or flammables into the area of the hot iron.  Watch your sleeves if you're wearing long sleeves.  I actually burned some holes in the sleeves of my jacket one time because I was so happy to get some speaker crossovers in the mail that I didn't take the time to remove my jacket before starting the work.  Such a dummy I am.

 

Good luck to you !!


 

 

post #2967 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I need some soldering tips / help confused.gif

 

First I guess I need a soldering iron, I can run down to Walmart for that..what else should I get besides some solder?

 

Lot's of other questions too:

 

1) how hot should I get the iron?

2) what's the best way to get the old solder off?

3) Is there anything I should do to prep the iron?

4) what else do I not know that I dont know?

 

I'm going to practice on my Porta Pro's

 

I just snapped out the drivers and popped off the little plastic piece that covers the connections. With the driver face down there is a little red dot next to the connection on the right. I'm assuming that's positive and the other one is the ground.

 

The new cable is going to be the 4 braided silver one I had on my 60's. I didnt do the solder work but with the 60 driver face down which contact is positive and which one is the ground? 

 

 



You can mail them to me and I'll do it for you.

post #2968 of 5003

work in a well-ventilated area... dont inhale fumes. even though they contain only small amounts of lead. a small air blower out of a brushless fan is good enough. better yet, an exhaust fan.

 

dont smoke or eat while soldering, lead stains in your fingers may get into your food.

 

you may use a file to shave off some "charred" portion of your tip to expose the shiny metal part. charring tips makes soldering really difficult and sometimes frustrating.

 

 

post #2969 of 5003

Thanks for the responses sml, wje, and Bill. I just watched some soldering basics you tubes and I think I have a basic grasp of the how to's.

Actually doing it is another deal altogether though, we'll see. BTW thanks for the offer Bill but I need to figure out how to do this. When my cups are done I'm going to need to recable or resolder the stock cable to the drivers on both the 60 and the 225. 

 

I'm putting the stock cable back on the 60 so I can compare and contrast the sound of the 60 with the 225 I just got. Then I will probably sell one of them. I'm putting the 4 braided silver on the Porta Pro just to see what it does. I love the Porta Pro but I sort of replaced it with some IEM's recently. But if it brightens it up a bit, makes it a little less muddy, and improves the clarity all the better.

 

 

Edit: Thanks for your input as well hi-fiber, good stuff to keep in mind.


Edited by KneelJung - 4/12/11 at 7:59pm
post #2970 of 5003

oh i went all wood on my grado...

 

IMG_0628.JPG

 

the sound? well at first i was puzzled... i thought theres an imbalance but i realized that the instruments get localized to certain spots... like i cant point exactly where certain instruments are.

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