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SR60-Mod - Page 20  

post #286 of 5003


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Majestic View Post

I'm negotiating a purchase of sr60's. Hopefully I can swing it.

 

  With that said, when I attempt to sweat the glue off cups with steam does any of the steam collect behind the driver diaphram? And if it does, I assume it dries without residue. Correct? 

Thanks for sharing this post with us for Q&A's. I can say that after reading your thorough data and viewing the great pic's it has pushed me to try the Grado's. 

 

Thanks

 

Don't use steam! Just use a hair dryer on high and it works perfectly and requires NO effort to pop them off. The glue doesn't even need to melt, just get soft.


 


Edited by tdockweiler - 10/1/10 at 11:56pm
post #287 of 5003

Ok gentlemen thanks for your help and reassurance. Next time I have my 325i's apart I may just try the pen method. Still curious tho what the size of your holes are (hehe...no jokes here please smily_headphones1.gif)?

post #288 of 5003

Thanks, Bilavideo, for your reply.  I don't have a dog in the copper vs. silver debate.  Being a, gasp, audiophile, biamping to me means a stereo amp for the highs and a stereo amp for the lows or horizontal biamping.  I'll bet someone does this on headphones.

post #289 of 5003

Hey Bilavideo,

 

You say that silver wire is thinner, and geared more towards a non-amped environment. If that is so, then why don't more people use silver in their iems, where the most benefit would be gained.

 

Also, thanks a lot for your explanations. They really do help clear the confusion.

post #290 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

Hey Bilavideo,

 

You say that silver wire is thinner, and geared more towards a non-amped environment. If that is so, then why don't more people use silver in their iems, where the most benefit would be gained.

 

Also, thanks a lot for your explanations. They really do help clear the confusion.


Good question!  When i say that silver wire is "thinner," I'm speaking of the amount of silver wire needed to provide the same conductivity.  My four-wire braid of 24 AWG 99.99% pure silver provides more conductivity than Grado's eight-connector "garden hose."  The cable is "thinner" in that respect.  

 

As a point of clarification, I'm not saying that silver is "geared towards a non-amped environment."  Many Headfiers utilizing silver (often with overpriced commercial cables) are using amps.  I'm simply saying that silver may be an attractive choice for unamped environments because it offers a cleaner conduit when power is at a minimum.

 

As for why silver hasn't caught on in the world of IEMs, I can only guess.  IEMs require less power.  IEM cables are typically flimsy.  Because they're held in the ears and easily yanked out, lighter cables hold a premium, especially when comparing such issues as cable microphonics.  While a silver cable is able to be thinner than its copper equivalent, silver is significantly denser.  If you don't go thinner, the silver cable will be heavier than the copper equivalent.  It will also be less flexible.  Silver wire is stiffer.  

 

And then there's the money.  When copper costs $20 to $40 new, silver presents a premium - in a niche where the price of the earphone may be well under $300.  If you could build a pyramid of IEM consumers, its base is probably packed with members of the $100 club, with the next step occupied by those who spent $200.  Those spending $300 and up are a relatively small group.  Custom fit is the big draw.  Everybody wants custom shells.  Few people are in a position to recable on their own.  This leaves less room for silver-cable upgrades.


Edited by Bilavideo - 10/2/10 at 2:13pm
post #291 of 5003

Good stuff Bila. I just wanted to show my appreciation of this thread. I acquired my first pair of grados, SR225i's just a couple of weeks ago but already I feel like I could perform the basic mods with confidence. I hope to get the same results as everyone else, increased bass and clarity. Thanks again!

post #292 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post


When i say that silver wire is "thinner," I'm speaking of the amount of silver wire needed to provide the same conductivity.  My four-wire braid of 24 AWG 99.99% pure silver provides more conductivity than Grado's eight-connector "garden hose."  The cable is "thinner" in that respect.  

 

I'm simply saying that silver may be an attractive choice for unamped environments because it offers a cleaner conduit when power is at a minimum.


Ok, gotcha. I only asked because I recently got new iems (Silver Bullets) and their cable is tiny compared even to other iems. When it breaks, because it will break eventually, I was wondering if silver would be a good option. I'll probably just cut the wire off my old pair and just use that instead of paying for fancy wire.

 

However my dt880s might just be getting some new silver wire soon. 


Edited by BobSaysHi - 10/2/10 at 3:41pm
post #293 of 5003
Thread Starter 

My advice, for what it's worth, is to buy the wire on the cheap and simply solder it to a terminator.  It's amazing how much you can save by doing the job yourself.

post #294 of 5003

Doh!...me slaps head! It's a new day and I re-read this thread and read the "Buy SR60i or SR80i?" thread aswell and get it now (at least I hope I do). The holes are already there in the form of a metal plate connecting magnet assembly to the plastic supporting frame (just like the basket of a loudspeakers woofer connects magnet to baffle) . The holes are already fixed in size and fixed in position. The felt/fabric is just a covering over the holes and metal plate (basket it should be called I think) so it isn't guesswork where your holes will end up or how far one pushes through (with a tapered pen at least). I had thought beneath the black felt or fabric was mostly just free air (except at the fabric rim where it attached to the plastic frame). This wasn't exactly clear early in the thread. Sorry for not putting two and two together and reading more carefully (old age and bad eyesight smily_headphones1.gif). Now I feel more confident in tackling this mod. Cheers.   

post #295 of 5003

Here are the mods that I have done on my sr225:

-dynamat dampening mod
-4 hole bass mod
-removed button mod (no noticeable increase in sound quality, just a cosmetic mod)

the sound has become much more neutral than before, with an airier soundstage to boot

*any tips on how to remove the extra glue on the rear screen?
I'm about to buy a mini butane lighter and melt away the excess; will this oxidize the metal screen? 
any other ways to do this?

I'll post pics of the finished product, after cleaning up the glue.

post #296 of 5003

Here is my method:

1. open the shells
2. heat up the glue from the back of the button
3. be a man and wipe them off with your fingers, a cloth will just have lint stick to the glue that will be crazy hard to remove later (learned from my mistakes)
4. once the blob is gone, poke through the holes with a heated soldering gun, to create an opening in the wall of glue
5. quickly use a toothbrush dipped in alcohol, and brush away the sticky excess (do this at least 4-6 times). wash with water and dry with towel after each brushing
6. heat the grille up with a hair dryer and wipe off any more small bits with your hands; this also smooths it out, which the toothbrush can't do. 
7. Repeat with the other cup

There will be some particles of glue left, it is inevitable, but it is good enough for me. People with OCD should not apply.

Here are the results (the picture really emphasizes it, I cannot see the glue from a foot away):

GEDC0248.jpg
 



 


Edited by zero7525 - 10/4/10 at 2:18pm
post #297 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Well done!  That looks really first rate!

post #298 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Well done!  That looks really first rate!



thank you biggrin.gif

I've made a short list of improvements to the sound (and its influence):

-much more bass impact and sub-bass presence, hardly any roll-off at all (4 hole)
-added a bit of warmth and midbass, which the grado needs IMO (4 hole)
-highs are more controlled, not shrill and not as sibilant anymore - I hate sibilance (4 hole and dampening)
-tighter bass impact and "blackness" between notes (dampening)
-Increased soundstage, more spacious. This is due to the less aggressive sound (dampening and 4 hole)
-much more neutral, and I can listen to a wide variety of genres now, from hip-hop to classical (4 hole and dampening)
-not tiring anymore, I can listen for hours on end (if comfort allows)

Love it to pieces. 

One of these days, I will rewire it with silver braid and add a j-money headband. These mods have cured my upgraditis to another headphone.


Edited by zero7525 - 10/4/10 at 4:44pm
post #299 of 5003

A quick question, when doing recabling with silver, wouldn't it be better to leave the wire as loose strands in the sleeving instead of braiding it? I've tried braiding 20AWG SPC and it seems to be a lot stiffer than the stock cable, as well as having a fair bit more "memory".

post #300 of 5003

braiding wire isn't used for stiffness, but instead is used to block out radio interference. Braiding wires is completely necessary.

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