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SR60-Mod - Page 158  

post #2356 of 5003

hi-fiber---WOW..those look incredible to me, just awesome...

 

somebody said they were looking for a tube amp, I use the first edition of this one but the newes t is due to ship anyday now..they are only like $250 ish

 

3b96f6221847122ebcc04dcc66f044fe.image.800x533.jpg

 

 

http://www.musicalparadise.ca/mp/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=75

post #2357 of 5003

Me....wanttt

post #2358 of 5003

Maybe you guys should try modding your hole saw bits so they have holes in the side that lets them vent. Kind of like brakes have BrakeVent1.jpg

 

Obviously try it on regular wood first with an old bit so as not to ruin possible earcups.

post #2359 of 5003

Dang, that looks like a whole lotta amp for $250.

post #2360 of 5003

That amp/head amp looks very nice indeed and with auto bias makes tube rolling sweeter :)

post #2361 of 5003

anyone know what can i use to dye the yellow senn hd414 pads like this?

DSC05998Small.jpg

or maybe a dark blue

post #2362 of 5003
Looking good hi fiber! I second sharkz in just slowing down and letting the saw cool.

Cheers,
Al
post #2363 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by hi-fiber View Post

i will do that soon mr bill...

s there some way you could prevent the wood from burning/charring? mahogany is just a hard wood to hole.


There are several methods I've stumbled upon as I've encountered the same situation.  These tips are in no particular order.  Use whatever method makes the most sense to you.

 

1. For outer shells, let the cutting borders bleed into each other so you have a ready escape for sawdust and a source of ventilation.  There's a little trick to hole saws.  In addition to adding an eighth of an inch for cutting outside the circle and subtracting an eighth of an inch for cutting inside it, there's a reality that outside wood you're cutting is from within the inside of the cup.  This means that the outer groove will be an eighth of an inch wider.  As you connect these "outer eighths," you'll be able to create these ventilation channels every time - without risking the integrity of your shell walls.

 

2. As mentioned above, speed and how hard you press does make a difference in terms of how much heat you generate.  You especially don't want to push it to the point that you get your blade caught.  Removing the blade can damage the shell-in-progress.  In the meantime, while you're trying to be gentle in prying your cup out of this sand trap, you're exposing the wood to very high temperatures.  Rather than be in any hurry, keep the blade moving quickly (don't choke it) and make use of the measuring ring on the side of your drill press.  As you pull downward, a depth indicator will tell you how far you're going.  I've found that it also helps me maintain a healthy pace.

 

3. Periodically take a break.  I've not used any liquids to date but with metal, a few minutes between hot points doesn't hurt.  Metal cools quickly.  I used a hole saw that uses an adapter allowing me to swap out saws and maintain a lower temp than if I were to try to use the same saw throughout.

 

4. Use braces to keep the wood still.  It also doesn't hurt to have the machine locked down so that you lower the vibrations that pour into the project.  A cleaner cut is less abrasive.

 

5. Sanding works well to remove any layer of charring in the wood.  For me the most sensitive cut is for the inner circle, which can't be vented.  One alternative to using saw holes only is the use of blades for the center.  This will naturally vent what you are doing.

 

post #2364 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

 

Quote:

 

This is interesting and I will definately give it a try, however there are still issues. As I said, many of the harder woods are also very oily. The issue is that the dust that comes out isn't the consistancy of a standard sawdust. When I cut Padauk or Purpleheart, the dust is almost more like a clay. I know that sounds weird, but the oil causes the dust to clump together in moist balls instead of nice dry chips or dust like a more "normal" wood.

 

The biggest issue I have is that the material deep down in the hole gums up and sometimes doesn't even want to come out with compressed air blowing on it. 


When working with oilier woods, you'll want to clean your blade periodically to avoid a build-up of clay-like residue.  I have a brush I run against the hole saw while spinning that does a nice job of removing the build-up.

 

post #2365 of 5003

I bought the first MP-301 (Big Bill has one also) to be strictly a headphone amp for the BilaGrado project and hooke it up to some big JBL's and its still there...This version was made with the designer getting upgrade requests and tweaks from the DIY forums where he hangs with the rest of us..this cat knows his stuff...If I had the cash right now I'd have already ordered one.. I love mine...

post #2366 of 5003

James use strong blue dye. blue and yellow makes green. you can't dye to get a primary colour either. ie, can't dye to get yellow, red and blue. you'd have to bleach them first to get it. or you can just buy blue or red 414s from jaben. saw some there when i was looking for comfies the other day.

 

post #2367 of 5003

Those look exactly like my HD414 pads. I used a black clothes dye (dylon but not the industrial multipurpose one). I failed to get them black and they just came out in that olive drab colour exactly

 

This is the only pic I can find, I had more.

 

Revision.JPG
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post

anyone know what can i use to dye the yellow senn hd414 pads like this?

DSC05998Small.jpg

or maybe a dark blue



 

post #2368 of 5003

^ ha! then i might just look for black then, its gonna be easier.

and i might consider the jaben ones Sainkeat mention

 

Thanks guys. now,, how come there are no photos of more woodies in the last page? blink.gif

post #2369 of 5003

To the best of my knowledge, I did not PM you, Bill, but it was the weekend so if I did, I apologize if I said anything stupid.

post #2370 of 5003

eclein, after telling all and sundry how well my savings plan is progressing, you had to go and post a photo of a very attractive tube amp that sells for 247 USD. Aaaarghhhhhh .....

 

Now that I have that out of my system, I need to point a few things out:

 

1. Consensus among many tube owners is that 'cheap' and 'tube amp' are mutually exclusive - we get what we pay for.

2. Common sense says that, even with Chinese labor, they *had* to take a few shortcuts to be able to offer this amp at that price. The Mk2 looks fantastic - no question - but its whats under that impressive hood that matters.

 

I'm going to spend some time looking for reviews, but my hand remains firmly on my wallet at this point in time :)

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