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SR60-Mod - Page 139  

post #2071 of 5003

shark any update on your driver failure?

 

I just attempted to make a mono stereo cable to prep for the detachable mod. think i'm decent at soldering now.. cable sucked cos of bad design though lol. next time i'll go with nylon sleeving rather than heat shrinking everything..

post #2072 of 5003

I've only done steps 1 and 2 of Bilavideo's original mods, and I'm already asking myself just how much potential is locked inside these cheap (comparatively..) little plastic cans. Looking forward to the weekend.

post #2073 of 5003

Theres nothing to really update. The driver seems to be dead and no amount of fiddling seems to want to solve it. I will be out of luck until I can find a spare, non liberated driver. Hopefully I can find one from someone here soon, otherwise I am going to be an unhappy camper.


 

post #2074 of 5003

i think that aluminum screen stuff might be perfect actually...I have had wonderful results and continue to use thin foam under the mesh screen to allow airflow but damp down the brightness..so this thicker, closer together mesh might be the ticket......

 

I also noticed a few post back someone was talking about the holes and should they do 4, 6 10?? I really think and you guys please correct me if I'm wrong but certain mods yield the same result across the board and the holes I think are what makes or breaks the rest nd sum total for each of us, some like four-I started with 4-some like 6, some ten-I'm at ten now- and some like the bigger holes. The holes -size and quantity of them- along with the type of shell wood, aluminum or other are truly the feature that most effects the overall sound shaping these mods give us, would guys agree with that?

 

Sharz- I'm searching for you...what model #( nevermind I see it now--sr60) is the working one from, just so maybe we get a chance to get ya the same exact type by model # just to be safe, personally I think all the drivers I've seen so far have been the same but I could be wrong.

 

Has anybody done the thin foam mod I use on one side of the mesh???

 

 

 

post #2075 of 5003
Quote:

Originally Posted by eclein View Post

 

Sharz- I'm searching for you...what model #( nevermind I see it now--sr60) is the working one from, just so maybe we get a chance to get ya the same exact type by model # just to be safe, personally I think all the drivers I've seen so far have been the same but I could be wrong.

Thanks for keeping an eye out. It is an older (~4 year old, non i) SR 60 if anyone can help. I would also prefer a non liberated driver if possible. I spent so much time getting the slip on shell right, I really don't want to abandon it if possible. I do appreciate the help anyone can offer.

post #2076 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Has anybody done the thin foam mod I use on one side of the mesh???

I'd gladly try it if I knew what to look for in terms of foam. I've got a lot of garbage laying around, so I may have something comprable, but I don't want to just slap some foam in and create a terrible closed can as opposed to your (what looks to be) "semi-open" design.
post #2077 of 5003

I used a piece of thin foam that was originally used in real large Sony headphones as a grill cloth between your ear and the plastic I guess that they use to hold the driver in...the foam was kinds like the white linen covering the driver in the Grado's except it was foam and a little thicker but not by much..here is a pic of it installed from the inside...when they fall apart I'll take better shots

100_0902.JPG

post #2078 of 5003

tried it, didn't like it.

post #2079 of 5003

I stuffed my cups way back in the day with foam. Didn't like the effect either.

post #2080 of 5003
Thread Starter 

This will come as no surprise to those of you are more adept woodworkers but when making the bottom slots for a slide-on shell, nothing works quite like a dremel.  Early on, I used a jigsaw to make these cuts, but I kept splintering wood, sometimes with heartbreaking results.  With hardwoods, the time it takes to make a three-saw cut for the double shells makes you grieve for any and every piece that doesn't "make the cut."  A friend advised me to use the dremel and I'm glad I listened to him.  I had to find just the right tip but dremeling helped fix a grievous problem.  Even my more fragile shells survived the dremel.  It was the right tool for the job.

post #2081 of 5003
Quote:

:DO NOT use a multimeter to test the ohms impedance. You are subjecting the driver to DC voltage (very bad) and while the voltage from a DMM is small, it could still potentially damage the driver.

 


Just want to point out that this is not true. There is no risk at all in using a DMM to measure the impedance of a driver (or any other delicate component for that matter). A DMM is pretty close to an ideal "infinite resistance" and so the current that flows (whether DC or AC) is negligable. Also, there is nothing wrong with subjecting a driver to DC resistance in general. It just wont do much apart from an initial transient spike.

post #2082 of 5003

I use foam just to cover the screen, not the whole inside of the shell so the wood still resonates. Maybe I got lucky and for whatever reason the foam I'm using (foam that was originally on some Sony Headphones acting as a grill cloth) is such that the setup retains the open sound but the bass is more defined. Or..maybe I'm just old and my ears are shot...LOL..

 

Bilavideo--the slot you make in the bottoms of the shell really only need to be like a shelf, that inner wall isn't really needed do ya think??

 

 

post #2083 of 5003

you think putting foam to cover the screen negates whatever event venting the drivers have?

 

i was wondering about Big Bill's post about evening out the front and back.. and figured if you just remove the linen cloth in front, then having a more open grill and a bigger chamber in the bag should even out without having to vent..

post #2084 of 5003
Thread Starter 

The mail has come and I'm very excited.  Thanks to the world of the internet - which lets us reach out and touch the far side of the planet - I've got wood piling up at my door.   So far, this is what I've got:

 

East Indian Rosewood

African Padauk

Honduras Mahogany

Hawaiian Koa

Mexican Cocobolo

Redheart

Brazilian Cherry

 

This is what's coming:

 

Balsamo/Santos Mahogany

Canarywood

Berlinia

Longhi Rouge

Jatoba

Granadillo

Wamara/Guyana Rosewood

White Limba a/k/a Korina

Yellowheart

 

My wife may kill me, but at least I'll die with a smile on my face.  In the meantime, I'm very pleased that the dremel has resolved the issue with the slip-on grooves.  I had to stop what I was doing until I'd fixed that issue.  Now, I'm ready to move forward.  It rained last night and today but the skies are clear again - and I'm ready to sail!

post #2085 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by eclein View Post

I use foam just to cover the screen, not the whole inside of the shell so the wood still resonates. Maybe I got lucky and for whatever reason the foam I'm using (foam that was originally on some Sony Headphones acting as a grill cloth) is such that the setup retains the open sound but the bass is more defined. Or..maybe I'm just old and my ears are shot...LOL..

 

Bilavideo--the slot you make in the bottoms of the shell really only need to be like a shelf, that inner wall isn't really needed do ya think??


The double wall creates a grip that's tighter than with a single wall.  It doubles the contact surface, to make the wooden shell more vibrant.  It also allows for a thicker shell at the front.  I've discovered an additional benefit, when dealing with plastic inners: The inner wall acts like a Skinny, covering plastic with wood.  With the dremel cuts, I won't have to put up with any more splitting of the wood because of the barbarity of the jigsaw blade.  I'm psyched!

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