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SR60-Mod - Page 138  

post #2056 of 5003

did you try swapping cables? the cable might got broken or something.

 

if you have a DMM you can check the terminals of the drivers for resistance of course this will be around 32ohms.

post #2057 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 


It has taken me three readings to get to what you are saying.  On my first two readings, I thought you were telling him what a fool he was to vent the drivers.  Instead, as I now see it, you are saying what I am saying, that Grado uses the felt to suppress the boominess that would occur with plastic housings.  The real culprit here is the plastic housing.  Plastic sucks.  Change to wood or aluminum and life gets better.



Thanks for clearing that stuff for me Mr. Bill. English has to come as a third language for me. Ive managed to craft some simple mahogany woodies last weekend and was quite surprised by the result.

 

Swapping between plastic and wood does things to the track seems like the sound. Plastic chambers sound "crowded" whereas the woodies tend to sound uhmmm well spaced out i think? Theres some reduction in bass and i think my drivers will now benefit from going from four-hole to ten-hole vents. But its still very deep.

 

I wanted to post pictures of the finished product but i cracked the thin part. I have to get more wood!

 

06032011(001).jpg06032011.jpg06032011(002).jpg

post #2058 of 5003



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckman View Post

Big Bill,

 

What is the effect of such large holes?

 

I'm wondering how many holes to make when I get an SR60, but want to avoid any 'bass monster' effect.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave



Hello Dave, the .193" hole mod I performed to my baskets were specifically targeted to address an issue arising from having removed the factory grill/wave guides. I have no experience with "non-liberated" drivers and hole modding.

 

Best of luck, Bill. :)

 


Edited by Big Bill - 3/8/11 at 8:05pm
post #2059 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Well, I wrecked a driver.......... I am so freaking mad right now..........


Your not alone sharkz, I feel your pain! I wrecked both drivers from my first set of Grados. :(

post #2060 of 5003

Thanks for the sentiments Big Bill. I am just hoping I can find someone to sell me an extra driver soon. I don't want to be without these headphones for a long time. Hopefully someone here has an extra unliberated driver that they are willing to sell.

 

This really hasn't been my week at all....

post #2061 of 5003

Sorry to hear about the driver Sharkz. It is extra frustrating knowing that you have taken extra care in doing the recabling job. Hope you will be back in action soon.

post #2062 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Thanks for the sentiments Big Bill. I am just hoping I can find someone to sell me an extra driver soon. I don't want to be without these headphones for a long time. Hopefully someone here has an extra unliberated driver that they are willing to sell.

 

This really hasn't been my week at all....



mr sharkz, since you said you were very careful in the recabling process, have you indeed checked if it was indeed the driver thats damaged or the cable.

post #2063 of 5003
Quote:

Originally Posted by hi-fiber View Post

 

mr sharkz, since you said you were very careful in the recabling process, have you indeed checked if it was indeed the driver thats damaged or the cable.


Its definitely the driver. I switched the cables to each driver and both cables worked with one driver, not the other. Also when checking the drivers with a meter, the good driver read ~30 ohms and the other one nothing. I am really still perplexed what I actually did to break the driver. If I had to guess though, it has to do with the white goop between the two contact pads. I must have hit that more than I should have with the iron.

 

I can do everything fine except precise soldering. I come from a long line of shaky people and never would have made it as a surgeon. The cable actually looks great, but I can only listen in Mono though. This whole scenario is particularly disappointing because I have been busting my butt on my new cups the past few days and I also have a new Beyer headband coming in, both things I have been waiting a while for. Now they will have to wait until I can find an extra driver, something I am not confident I can do quickly. Seems like not many people have extras unless they aren't advertising them.

 

I'm going to be like a kid sitting in a car making car noises, but not going anywhere.

 

post #2064 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post




Its definitely the driver. I switched the cables to each driver and both cables worked with one driver, not the other. Also when checking the drivers with a meter, the good driver read ~30 ohms and the other one nothing. I am really still perplexed what I actually did to break the driver. If I had to guess though, it has to do with the white goop between the two contact pads. I must have hit that more than I should have with the iron.

 

I can do everything fine except precise soldering. I come from a long line of shaky people and never would have made it as a surgeon. The cable actually looks great, but I can only listen in Mono though. This whole scenario is particularly disappointing because I have been busting my butt on my new cups the past few days and I also have a new Beyer headband coming in, both things I have been waiting a while for. Now they will have to wait until I can find an extra driver, something I am not confident I can do quickly. Seems like not many people have extras unless they aren't advertising them.

 

I'm going to be like a kid sitting in a car making car noises, but not going anywhere.

 


Might want to contact grado. Don't lie to them, tell them exactly what happened and ask to buy a replacement driver.

 

And on another VERY IMPORTANT note to any headphone modders out there:

 

DO NOT use a multimeter to test the ohms impedance. You are subjecting the driver to DC voltage (very bad) and while the voltage from a DMM is small, it could still potentially damage the driver.

 

I used to do this too, but another head-fier corrected me, so here I am spreading the word.

 

EDIT: bolded and increased the size for emphasis and to catch random scroller's eye. biggrin.gif If you read it in a shouting voice, I don't mean it that way.


Edited by BobSaysHi - 3/8/11 at 9:17pm
post #2065 of 5003



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

 

I'm going to be like a kid sitting in a car making car noises, but not going anywhere.

 



EDIT:


Edited by Big Bill - 3/10/11 at 4:51am
post #2066 of 5003

Hi Mr. Bob.

 

Though i feel completely safe at DMM rates, its best not to mess with those drivers so maybe ill take your word. imagine youre spending ~$50 for each of those drivers, mylar, few lengths of wire, magnet from a refrigerator clip, a plastic poker chip with holes and a plate cut from bottle caps.

 

 

post #2067 of 5003

Unless I've missed it has anyone experimented with different wall thicknesses on the wood cups I just finished the Cocobolo cups posted earlier and a pair of Zebrano ones and went with the same thickness as the plastic housings but notice a lot of you seem to be using thicker walls, is this just to avoid cracking the material?

post #2068 of 5003

hello gents, i've got loads of aluminum pref metal with a 0.050 gage. i cut them down to about 11x12.5" sheets and i'd like to move these as quick as i can. 

 

pm me and let me know if you need a sheet or two. :{o

 

DSCF3483.JPG

DSCF3486.JPG

 

 

post #2069 of 5003

Looks good, but I would opt for a mesh that is more open.

post #2070 of 5003

I agree, that metal looks more restrictive than the stock grilles. And the point of replacing them is to promote more air flow.

 

And Sim, the reason I went with a thicker wall originally was to make the cups sturdier and show off the wood more. However my wall thickness just wasn't enough when I went to a slip on shell design with the Padauk and my current shells are a 2.5" OD with a 1.5" hole, giving me nice 1/2" thick walls and a 2" driver slot. I found the driver slot makes things a little too thin with certain woods when using a 2-3/8" and 1-5/8" combo, but others have found different with other woods.

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