or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

SR60-Mod - Page 97  

post #1441 of 5003

Just bought some SR60i's can't wait to hear the grado sound and try out some of these mods :D Big fan Bill been watching you for quiet a while *stalker status*



post #1442 of 5003

looks great man!

post #1443 of 5003

Wow, original sr60s modded.




I'm digging my grados more and more every day. It's a shame I just spent $700 on my Sennheiser setup.

post #1444 of 5003

Mine just arrived today and I've been listening to them for hours. They are simply amazing. Granted, these are my first set of real cans(I've always been an IEM user), but they sound fabulous. And I haven't even did any modding.


I think the only mod I'm brave enough to try is the quarter mod. But I'm so happy with the sound that I really don't see a reason to at this point. The mod that I really want to do is get a cushioned headband for it. The ear cushions are fine(and I love the style of the phones, I personally don't see why everyone likes to mod for the look). After hours of use my ears do not hurt a bit. And it's not that the top of my head hurts, it's just that there's a little pressure on it from the band. If I can find a post that shows how to properly bend the headband then I'll try that before getting a cushioned one.

post #1445 of 5003

This thread has inspired me to dig up my Nakamichi SP-7 drivers and make something with it.  They are old 80's headphones that use Grado drivers.

post #1446 of 5003

I bought the blu-tack at Home Depot in Canada.  It was in the paint section, next to the glue (Crazy Glue etc).


It is by LePages, and is not called blu-tack specifically, but it is blue, and tacky.  Comes in a yellow package with 4 strips of the stuff, for about $5.

post #1447 of 5003

I thought I should chime in on this thread since I had done some of these mods and was stunned at the difference. I have some older SR-125's and have really loved them over the years but I had a couple complaints about their sound signature, enough so that I had purchased some RS-1's. I use the RS-1's in my non-portable rig, while I use the SR-125's with a Sansa Fuze and an Ibasso amp. The RS-1's are buttery smooth but lack sparkle in the higher octaves and the lower octaves seem to fade out. The SR-125's certanly have the sparkle in the highs but they have too much for my liking. The bass also fades out leaving a thin presentation at times. I came across this thread and thought there might be something to all of this. I have built numerous speakers over the years and thought that these mods are just like building a speaker cabinet. I did the 'four hole felt punch and put some mass(felt) on the back of the magnet. Much to my surprise the bass improved and the highs were much smoother. I got pretty excited! I next got some PVC pipe and used these as the sleeve. What I had noticed was the bass had deepened further but the soundstage had gotten much wider. The only thing is that the headhones now sounded like polypropylene. All drums had a plastic sound signature indicative to poly. I don't mind the sound but thought there was better out there. Since I had built speakers my favorite wood to use is medium dense fiberboard. It has mass, is very rigid .and does not have a sound signature to speak of. I looked thru this thread and noticed nobody had tried this so I thought what the heck lets try it. Since PVC sounded like poly, MDF should sound like.. well nothing. It sure did. What these headphones sound like now is pretty incredible. The MDF has further smoothed out the highs. Everything sounds so natural now, but since there is very little resonance little details are coming out. I strongly suggest trying MDF, it leaves no sound signature at all and it very easy to work with. In my opinion I prefer these to the RS-1's. They have a wider range, sound neutral, with more detail and a wider soundstage. I have listened to a lot of headphones and it seems like the are always comprimises. I have to say now these SR-125's have no comprimises now, they pretty much can do it all. I thank everyone here that has contributed to this thread, I now have Grado's that have no weaknesses.  

post #1448 of 5003

For those folks that have played around with hole saws and the drill press, can you help me understand how you clamp the ring?  I can understand how to clamp the piece when you first cut out the circle.  But when you drill out the next piece, to create a ring out of the circle, how are you clamping that?


I was considering building a jig out of a 2x4 - cut the 2.5 circle out of it, then slice across the whole piece aftewards, giving me 2 crescent shaped pieces - these I could clamp horizontally to squeeze the exterior of the circle I will then drill out the inner piece from.


Am I on the right track, or is there a simple solution I have overlooked?


Thanks boys, picking up some scraps to play with, and looking forward to getting into the bubinga over the weekend.

post #1449 of 5003

Mcgsxr, my method has been clamp the wood, cut the inner circle, then change to the bigger saw and cut the outer circle (using a drill press). If not using a drill press, I would mark the center (where your holesaw bit will be), drill two pilot holes and screw the piece of wood to another piece below it so that your inner circle won't move once cut. Then once that circle is cut, you can change bits and use the same hole to center your bigger hole's cut. Hope that helps.


Well my project car visit was a bust, but at least that saves me the inital $1500 expense and untold money after. I think as soon as I can find a Little Dot 1+ in the FS forums here, I will be grabbing it then trying to sell my Indeed. Hopefully something comes up soon, would be fun to play around with something new.


I also think I am going to recable with Mogami Mini Quad. I will have to see how that is going to go.

post #1450 of 5003


Originally Posted by dkm24 View Post

 I thank everyone here that has contributed to this thread, I now have Grado's that have no weaknesses.  

Amazing testimony. Congrats man!

post #1451 of 5003

Ah yes, since you clamp the work piece, you can swap out the hole saws and still remain on center.  I had not thought of cutting the inner first, that is a good idea.  Thanks!


I will report back on how my recabling with Mogami and a Vampire 1/4 goes in early March.

post #1452 of 5003

So I was playing around with ways to keep my ear from colliding with the newly liberated driver while wearing flats.  I deciding to go with something like this and got the inspiration from a couple of speaker manufacturers.  It does the trick and I'll improve the overall presentation later after some more listening.



post #1453 of 5003
Originally Posted by Big Bill View Post

Do any of the "Big-Box" stores carry blu-tack?

I found mine at Office Depot, $1.99 for white mounting tack. More than I could possibly ever use.

post #1454 of 5003
Thread Starter 



Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.03 #2.jpg


I've got new toys.  This is aluminum tubing I've purchased to experiment with.


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.03.jpg


This is 6160 in is unfinished state.  I bought enough to make front and rear shells as well as aluminum gimbal rings.


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.04.jpg


Here are the thicker rings I can use for outer/rear chambers.


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.05.jpg


These are the smaller rings, which I'd like to use for front/inner shells.


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.07 #2.jpg


The fit for a pair of liberated drivers is surprisingly good.


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.07.jpg


And now, to slap on some comfies and just grab an instant audition . . . 


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.08 #2.jpg


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 18.09.jpg


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 19.09.jpg


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 19.10.jpg


Photo on 2011-02-17 at 19.20.jpg

post #1455 of 5003

That last photo makes them look HUGE because it looks like they are next to your head ^-^



New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
This thread is locked