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SR60-Mod - Page 83  

post #1231 of 5003
Thread Starter 

SPRAY VS. BRUSH

 

Recently, I decided to give spray a chance.  I've heard how it's easier to apply than brush, and that it dries faster so you can get in more mini-coats.  

 

Angled.jpg

 

So far, I like the faster drying time and the relative ease with which thin coats can be applied, though thinner coats require more coatings to get the same level of smoothness.  

 

Wave.jpg

 

I recently read a bit of advice known as the Rule of 65.  It says to avoid spraying if the temperature is below 65 or the relative humidity is above 65.  Otherwise, you get a milky finish caused by captured dew or water vapor.  Under such conditions, brushing may be the only way.  Apart from that, spraying can be a nice way to get that wet look without dripping.

post #1232 of 5003

how does one attach the skin to the headpiece? Glue?

post #1233 of 5003
Or stitch it if you have a machine or are proficient at hand stitching it. I'm not really good at it... but I plan on doing it that way regardless since I find it to look more professional in the end.
post #1234 of 5003

damn. 

post #1235 of 5003

when I read glue my face melted. I think I may make and sell some of the Grado headbands that one guy did the HBOMB thing on, this being in a few months after I have some serious dosh to work with hahaha.....oh college why do you hate me so.

post #1236 of 5003
Quick question: If I were planning on just changing the warpping around the cables of my SR-60, what sizes of heat shrink tubing would I want to buy? For both the large middle part and the smaller L/R split offs (I don't know the exact names sorry)

I also need a good source for mesh
post #1237 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

Anybody tried a "suede lambskin" for their headbands? I'm not sure if the slick leather is better for a band or not. Any opinions?

And why does nobody on eBay sell lambskin that isn't hideous in 1sqft pieces? Teal gator skin... really?


 I agree with this 100%. I don't need 10 square feet, but I want 1/2 or 1 sq ft of nice leather with no holes or thin spots. I found one Ebay source in Italy, but I don't want to have to deal with customs fees and whatnot. The main seller ebay with hundreds of listings can't seem to list any without defects. And I don't feel like dealing with a crapshoot of wondering whether I will get something I can actually use.

 

Bill, what kind of wood is that you are using? Is that 2 1" thick boards glued together? I would love to try that, buy my hole saw will only cut 1" deep. I've been too cheap/lazy to buy a deeper one, so even my 5/4" cuts aren't aligned because I have to flip over to finish my cuts.

 

I really love how the Mahogany cups sound now though. Listened to some vinyl last night (after being lazy and listening to a lot of Flac files via MP3 player lately) and it really does sound better than the digital stuff. Now I just need a Spin Clean to make my vinyl silent and I am really considering using my tax refund to get a Little Dot. My Indeed just has way too much floor noise, which is really evident with vinyl and the Grado's.

post #1238 of 5003

Wow Bila, lots of shells, but is that wood burned? You might want to let the drill cool down...

post #1239 of 5003

yea, I had similar things like that happen with the drillpress in wood shop, IMO its best to drill in short bursts. 

post #1240 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by apatN View Post

Wow Bila, lots of shells, but is that wood burned? You might want to let the drill cool down...


Actually, it's called night.  I was taking pictures in the dark with a flash.  The hollowed out portions of the shells are not full of ash. 

 

All right, that probably came out the wrong way.  I've burned my share of shells, though the scorch marks are easily sanded out with a dremel.  It's harder to avoid with hardwood, especially the thicker stuff.  I have a routine I do, where I cut briefly and release.  I also use this method to create a suction that pulls sawdust out of the grooves.  As I got going, I found it helpful as well to cut irrigation paths for sawdust release and better ventilation.  When I make bulk cuts, I've found it helpful to vary the tasks, switching between saws since it takes three cuts to make the redesigned chambers.  When saws get hot, I switch them out wearing oven mittens to protect my hands.  Before I did this, I'd be the one getting burned.

 

But in this case, most of the dark holes you see are dark because they're deep.  In a few cases, I left in a scorch mark because I thought it looked cool, adding a ribbon of black to a figured edge.

post #1241 of 5003
I finally did the Dynamod and honestly, I didn't notice much. Granted, it's the stock chambers, the button's still there with nothing below it to dampen that, but still, it hardly affected my highs. However, I'm always a skeptic, so maybe I have a little placebo working against the norm of amazing change from a mod confused_face(1).gif

It's not hurting anything though and I liked finally seeing the full inside of the thing unrestricted.
post #1242 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

I finally did the Dynamod and honestly, I didn't notice much. Granted, it's the stock chambers, the button's still there with nothing below it to dampen that, but still, it hardly affected my highs. However, I'm always a skeptic, so maybe I have a little placebo working against the norm of amazing change from a mod confused_face(1).gif

It's not hurting anything though and I liked finally seeing the full inside of the thing unrestricted.


Did you cover the entire inside w/ dynamat or just the back of the magnet plate?

post #1243 of 5003

Finally got my hands on some locking collars... 1.28$ later, this is what we end up with. I like having the cups exactly where I need them, all the time. I also shorten the cord, quite a bit, down to about 4 feet and reterminated with a radio shack 3.5mm plug. This will do until I decide to recable the whole thing with mogami and neutrik plug.

 

IMG_8741-1.JPG

post #1244 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BizFromQC View Post

Finally got my hands on some locking collars... 1.28$ later, this is what we end up with. I like having the cups exactly where I need them, all the time. I also shorten the cord, quite a bit, down to about 4 feet and reterminated with a radio shack 3.5mm plug. This will do until I decide to recable the whole thing with mogami and neutrik plug.

 

IMG_8741-1.JPG


Dude. Really nicely done. beerchug.gif

post #1245 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

I finally did the Dynamod and honestly, I didn't notice much. Granted, it's the stock chambers, the button's still there with nothing below it to dampen that, but still, it hardly affected my highs. However, I'm always a skeptic, so maybe I have a little placebo working against the norm of amazing change from a mod confused_face(1).gif

It's not hurting anything though and I liked finally seeing the full inside of the thing unrestricted.


Did you cover the entire inside w/ dynamat or just the back of the magnet plate?


Just the driver. But I'm planning on some further mods, so I'm not gonna dynamat the whole thing just to have the cup not be used anymore after the driver is re-housed in wood
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