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SR60-Mod - Page 78  

post #1156 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by ccklone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

So what is the verdict on using CAT 5e or CAT 6 cable on headphones? Also can someone point me toward the parts I would need to make detachable cables for each ear?



Hey Now,

 

I just re-cabled my Fostex T40 v1 with Cat6 cable. I modded the single entry into a dual entry and terminated using a balanced 4-pin XLR. I had about 6 feet of Cat6 cable laying around doing nothing. I had read some folks were using it for headphones. I stripped the sheath off and found 8 wires, I think 26awg. There were 4 twisted pairs. I used 2 twisted pairs for each side. I braided the 4 twisted strands, I'll say it is colorful to say the least. It sounds pretty good for a 5 dollar cable 8^). It is stiff and microphonic. I am not sure if a techflex covering would reduce the microphonics, it will not help with the stiffness. I may have used too tight of a braid as well. I used some white shrink wrap from the cups to the yoke.

 

Fostex re-cabled with Cat6_balanced 4pin.JPG

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris


Chris, I love the fact that you took the stiff sheath off the CAT5 cable, which must make it more flexible and definitely makes it more colorful and attractive.  I think your headphone setup looks smart and cool.  Kudos to you for doing something awesome at a modest price.

post #1157 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Wow.  Nice cutting - and I'm glad to see another person grabbing up that silver!  Awesome work!
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccklone View Post

Hey Now,

 

Since I was taking photos, here is my woodied SR325 (s/n 936) conversion with the Bilavideo mods. I received these woodied 325s in a trade. The cups I believe are walnut, but one side had a split. I repaired the split with epoxy. Not pretty but solid. The headphones had been re-cabled SE with some good quality copper, so I kept that. I re-terminated with a Neutrik 4-pin XLR. I punched all 10 holes with my old Palm Pilot stylus, works perfect. I damped the driver and the plastic cup with Dynamat. Removed the screen as well. Using some gimbal locks with rubber washers. Got a pair of jumbo pads and they sound great. I am using them balanced at the moment thru my Opus DAC and A-GD Roc. Very wide soundstage, good bass impact and smooth trebles, it's all good 8^).

 

SR325_1.JPG

 

SR325_2.JPG

 

I bought a pair of old SR60s a while back and re-cabled with Mogami_mini-quad W2893 terminated with a 1/8" Switchcraft plug. Then starting reading this thread. I have done all the same mods except that I used felt instead of Dynamat, I am going to replace the felt with Dynamat. It sounds better I think. I got these walnut wood cups in the same trade for SR325s. Both cups were split and again epoxy is your friend. Not pretty but very functional. I am using a Beyer headband. These are for portable use primarily.

 

SR60_1.JPG

 

SR60_2.JPG

 

The SR60s sound close to the SR325s. I think I will get even closer when I swap out the felt on the SR60s with Dynamat.

 

Thanks for all the info and inspiration in this thread. These pair of Grados sound better than I could have imagined. I am throughly enjoying them.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

 

 

post #1158 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

So I managed to get some Mahogany yesterday. After spending many hours in Atlantic City last night, I was able to get six rings cut using a drill press today, huge improvement over a hand drill. I am in the process of finely sanding the inner circles so I can finish them with a few different things to see what I like the most. Tomorrow will be on to finishing sanding on a pair or two of the rings so they are ready for their finish.

 

I already love the way the Mahogany looks and works. It was great to cut using the press and is very much harder than the oak. It also weights a good bit more. It will be interesting to see what I decide to finish them with. Am experimenting with plain lacquer, Minwax Mahogany colored stain, and Boiled Linseed oil. If I am not happy with any of these, I will likely be getting some Tung Oil to try that out.


What kind of Mahogany is it if it's harder than Oak because your average "Mahogany" is a lot softer than oak.
post #1159 of 5003

Hey Bill, you should edit links to your videos into the first post. It would help a lot of users just passing by this thread.

post #1160 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

So I managed to get some Mahogany yesterday. After spending many hours in Atlantic City last night, I was able to get six rings cut using a drill press today, huge improvement over a hand drill. I am in the process of finely sanding the inner circles so I can finish them with a few different things to see what I like the most. Tomorrow will be on to finishing sanding on a pair or two of the rings so they are ready for their finish.

 

I already love the way the Mahogany looks and works. It was great to cut using the press and is very much harder than the oak. It also weights a good bit more. It will be interesting to see what I decide to finish them with. Am experimenting with plain lacquer, Minwax Mahogany colored stain, and Boiled Linseed oil. If I am not happy with any of these, I will likely be getting some Tung Oil to try that out.




What kind of Mahogany is it if it's harder than Oak because your average "Mahogany" is a lot softer than oak.


Interesting question.  On the Janka hardness test, Honduran Mahogany (which is what I use) is 800 lbs-force while Red Oak is 1290. Honduran Mahogany cuts pretty easily compared to Red Oak.  Other mahoganies are harder.  African M is 830.  Santos Mahogany is three times harder than its Honduran equivalent (2200) and nearly twice as hard as oak.  Red Mahogany is 2697.  That's harder than Brazilian rosewood.

post #1161 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

Hey Bill, you should edit links to your videos into the first post. It would help a lot of users just passing by this thread.


Are you talking about that link where it came up as "private?"  It was the first time I'd used the "share" function in Final Cut.  Usually, I use mid-fi version of the video and upload it to Youtube manually but was surprised to find this "share" function available when I used Final Cut to cut the partial-liberation video to a reasonable size.

 

Here's the video again.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNcAC6lCebs

 

After watching it, you'll probably come away with a great and resounding truth: Bill should have simply used needle-nosed pliers to begin with.  Live and learn.

post #1162 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

Hey Bill, you should edit links to your videos into the first post. It would help a lot of users just passing by this thread.


Are you talking about that link where it came up as "private?"  It was the first time I'd used the "share" function in Final Cut.  Usually, I use mid-fi version of the video and upload it to Youtube manually but was surprised to find this "share" function available when I used Final Cut to cut the partial-liberation video to a reasonable size.

 

Here's the video again.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNcAC6lCebs

 

After watching it, you'll probably come away with a great and resounding truth: Bill should have simply used needle-nosed pliers to begin with.  Live and learn.


Yeah, nevermind. I've changed my mind.

 

I think I've found a way to get into the driver that would not only be very painless, but be able to be done quickly. If I'm able to, I'll make a youtube video about it. There's a problem with one of my friends sr80is, so I'll have to operate on it, so I might as well make a video while I'm at it.

post #1163 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post




Wait, really? Cool!!! biggrin.gif

 

Also, http://www.headphone.com/accessories/jmoney-grado-lambskin-headband.php



Hey Now,

 

Thanks for the tip. Just ordered one. Sent a PM as well.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

post #1164 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Photo on 2011-01-30 at 23.20.jpg

 

It was a productive weekend.  I cut 23 shells, which is no small feat with cocobolo.  It started out with what was going to be a wash - since my drill press quit working and I had to replace it - but once I got started, I was on a roll.  Before the day was up, I managed to get battered, bruised and bloody - and even had my daughter pick a chunk of cocobolo out of my hand on the way to The Mechanic for a diversion (I don't recommend pulling out splinters at highway speed).  I had to shower three times today (which is more than I can say for shaving or combing my hair) but I spent the day with these cans - and loved it.  The bass is full but not muddy in the slightest.  Comfies get a bad rap for delivering a muted sound, and no soundstage, but one man's muted highs are another's elegant restraint.  With the quarter mod (which I pulled off by using the drill press on the pads using high speed, very slow descent and a 1 5/8" drill saw over scrap wood) the highs are crystal clear without calling attention to themselves as spiked.  That "wow" effect of spiking the treble - with "air" that turns fatiguing five minutes later - is replaced by a flatter, better-balanced, presentation.  I'm reminded of the HD800's trick of operating in Grado Land (compared to other Sennheiser cans) but without sizzling right into sibilance.

 

The one downside is that I now smell like cocobolo dust - even after a meal at McDonald's.  I don't care.  I skateboarded the jogging path around Lake Hollingsworth (three miles in the moonlight) and these babies never ceased to amaze me.  It made me want to make a ritual of it, something I did more of before breaking two fingers re-learning Newton's First Law of Motion. (Gxddxmned Grado cable!  I was worrying about it when my board stopped on a rock, causing me to react too late.)

 

The bass is not bloated or loose.  It's tight but it's there - and quite punchy.  It's not just the kick drums that are making their presence known.  It's the bass line, which is so much more articulate.  On The Beatles' Good Night - one of the few tracks giving the mic to Ringo Starr - there's an interesting metronomic beat of uncertain origin that kicks in before the orchestra starts.  Is it a string bass?  It must be because it has pitch.  Yes, the scales, bowed later, prove as much.  You can hear "air" on the Rolling Stones' Jumpin' Jack Flash.  The horn section on Thelonious Monk's Brilliant Corners is scrumptious.  Unlike with some of the higher-end Grados, the piano work never feels spiky, even with TM's sometimes jagged playing.  Rush's Limelight just snaps and pops.  Bob Marley's Chant Down Babylon is very bassy - as if we were there, enjoying a live performance (as does Dynamite Hack's Boyz-N-The Hood).  The Cars' Candy-O just sizzles and punches (straight to the chest).  On the other hand, Shontelle's T-Shirt has a low presence-establishing bass beat but sounds as open and clear as if it didn't.  Not every track sounds equally great.  ELO's In the Hall of the Mountain King does sound muted and veiled but that's probably the recording.  I'm hearing a "wow"-sounding voice or effect which I'd never realized was on this track.  I'm also hearing echoes and other forms of detail and space, even on this less-than-stellar recording.

 

This is why I sold my PS1000, HD800 and T1.  These mods are more than just tweaks.  As we push for the very best, even from the low-fi to mid-fi choices, we are sending a snowball down the mountain, one whose size and impact - by the time it reaches the bottom - is impossible to tell.  So many people have gotten off the sidelines are now grabbing for their Grados (or ordering new ones) all in an effort to trick their ride into something truly spectacular.  Things are happening.  It's an exciting time.

post #1165 of 5003

are you like...selling the wooden cups now lol?

post #1166 of 5003

Bila, keep up the great work. I love to read your postings.

 

I spent most of my night (with a break for a hockey game) trying to get the sanding of my mahogany down. The biggest issue is matching the grain of a disc shaped object while sanding. The areas I can match with (parallel with the sides and perpendicular on the ends) look great when lacquered. They exhibit a sort of holographic quality that changes based on your perspective. My issue is that I am striving for that around the whole outside of the cup and likely won't give up until I achieve it. I don't want any dull areas, I want to see beautiful grain all around my cups. At least I have only touched two of my six shells.

 

I do think I am set on just lacquer though. I tried some stain and it just dies the wood too dark, I used nice wood, I want to see the grain. The linseed oil looks mostly the same as the lacquer, just with no glossiness. So I think I am going to spend the next few days trying to get my mirror finish on some of these rings then perfect the lacquering process.

post #1167 of 5003



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Photo on 2011-01-30 at 23.20.jpg

 

It was a productive weekend.  I cut 23 shells, which is no small feat with cocobolo.  It started out with what was going to be a wash - since my drill press quit working and I had to replace it - but once I got started, I was on a roll.  Before the day was up, I managed to get battered, bruised and bloody - and even had my daughter pick a chunk of cocobolo out of my hand on the way to The Mechanic for a diversion (I don't recommend pulling out splinters at highway speed).  I had to shower three times today (which is more than I can say for shaving or combing my hair) but I spent the day with these cans - and loved it.  The bass is full but not muddy in the slightest.  Comfies get a bad rap for delivering a muted sound, and no soundstage, but one man's muted highs are another's elegant restraint.  With the quarter mod (which I pulled off by using the drill press on the pads using high speed, very slow descent and a 1 5/8" drill saw over scrap wood) the highs are crystal clear without calling attention to themselves as spiked.  That "wow" effect of spiking the treble - with "air" that turns fatiguing five minutes later - is replaced by a flatter, better-balanced, presentation.  I'm reminded of the HD800's trick of operating in Grado Land (compared to other Sennheiser cans) but without sizzling right into sibilance.

 

The one downside is that I now smell like cocobolo dust - even after a meal at McDonald's.  I don't care.  I skateboarded the jogging path around Lake Hollingsworth (three miles in the moonlight) and these babies never ceased to amaze me.  It made me want to make a ritual of it, something I did more of before breaking two fingers re-learning Newton's First Law of Motion. (Gxddxmned Grado cable!  I was worrying about it when my board stopped on a rock, causing me to react too late.)

 

The bass is not bloated or loose.  It's tight but it's there - and quite punchy.  It's not just the kick drums that are making their presence known.  It's the bass line, which is so much more articulate.  On The Beatles' Good Night - one of the few tracks giving the mic to Ringo Starr - there's an interesting metronomic beat of uncertain origin that kicks in before the orchestra starts.  Is it a string bass?  It must be because it has pitch.  Yes, the scales, bowed later, prove as much.  You can hear "air" on the Rolling Stones' Jumpin' Jack Flash.  The horn section on Thelonious Monk's Brilliant Corners is scrumptious.  Unlike with some of the higher-end Grados, the piano work never feels spiky, even with TM's sometimes jagged playing.  Rush's Limelight just snaps and pops.  Bob Marley's Chant Down Babylon is very bassy - as if we were there, enjoying a live performance (as does Dynamite Hack's Boyz-N-The Hood).  The Cars' Candy-O just sizzles and punches (straight to the chest).  On the other hand, Shontelle's T-Shirt has a low presence-establishing bass beat but sounds as open and clear as if it didn't.  Not every track sounds equally great.  ELO's In the Hall of the Mountain King does sound muted and veiled but that's probably the recording.  I'm hearing a "wow"-sounding voice or effect which I'd never realized was on this track.  I'm also hearing echoes and other forms of detail and space, even on this less-than-stellar recording.

 

This is why I sold my PS1000, HD800 and T1.  These mods are more than just tweaks.  As we push for the very best, even from the low-fi to mid-fi choices, we are sending a snowball down the mountain, one whose size and impact - by the time it reaches the bottom - is impossible to tell.  So many people have gotten off the sidelines are now grabbing for their Grados (or ordering new ones) all in an effort to trick their ride into something truly spectacular.  Things are happening.  It's an exciting time.


23 cups over the weekend is definitely no small feat. Gotta love the reddish look of the finished cocobolos! More shots! More shots! Great job Bill and very detail impression of what the cups bring to the ears. I cannot wait to see / hear what they do to mine.

 

By the way, hopefully you didn't end up ordering a McCocobolo while you were at McD's :)
 

post #1168 of 5003

also, sorry about the fingers hahaha, next time tape/clip the wire onto your shirt....aswell as the cans them self*I have done it and it works well*

post #1169 of 5003

Bill, I'm just wondering how many pairs of SR60 do you have to experiment all these mods on.

post #1170 of 5003

Hey Chris, those really look nice.

 

Do you mind telling me (and commenting on the use of) the two different Y-Splits you are using? The one from the 325 and the one from the 60...

 

I'm also trying to find locking collars for the cup posts (attached to the headband) locally but without any luck... Anyone know where I can find some online that will ship to Canada of better yet, willing to sell me a couple :-)

 

Thanks,

Eric

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccklone View Post

Hey Now,

 

Since I was taking photos, here is my woodied SR325 (s/n 936) conversion with the Bilavideo mods. I received these woodied 325s in a trade. The cups I believe are walnut, but one side had a split. I repaired the split with epoxy. Not pretty but solid. The headphones had been re-cabled SE with some good quality copper, so I kept that. I re-terminated with a Neutrik 4-pin XLR. I punched all 10 holes with my old Palm Pilot stylus, works perfect. I damped the driver and the plastic cup with Dynamat. Removed the screen as well. Using some gimbal locks with rubber washers. Got a pair of jumbo pads and they sound great. I am using them balanced at the moment thru my Opus DAC and A-GD Roc. Very wide soundstage, good bass impact and smooth trebles, it's all good 8^).

 

SR325_1.JPG

 

SR325_2.JPG

 

I bought a pair of old SR60s a while back and re-cabled with Mogami_mini-quad W2893 terminated with a 1/8" Switchcraft plug. Then starting reading this thread. I have done all the same mods except that I used felt instead of Dynamat, I am going to replace the felt with Dynamat. It sounds better I think. I got these walnut wood cups in the same trade for SR325s. Both cups were split and again epoxy is your friend. Not pretty but very functional. I am using a Beyer headband. These are for portable use primarily.

 

SR60_1.JPG

 

SR60_2.JPG

 

The SR60s sound close to the SR325s. I think I will get even closer when I swap out the felt on the SR60s with Dynamat.

 

Thanks for all the info and inspiration in this thread. These pair of Grados sound better than I could have imagined. I am throughly enjoying them.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

 

 

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