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post #1141 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by ejs811 View Post

HELP!

Just did mods today, and upon assembly the left cup has NO BASS!

 

Any idea what could have caused this? It sounds like when you hold your palm over the grill.

I changed the grill, opened 5 holes in the felt, damped the driver with felt.

 

Hope this can be fixed. frown.gif

 


Lots of questions.  Treat this as a troubleshooter's guide.  None of these questions are designed to lay any blame.

 

1. Did you de-solder and re-solder?  If you did, make sure you didn't switch the wires.  The ground wire is always the same color and it's always on the left.  Depending on the mismatch, crossing your wires can either (a) kill your bass, (b) put your drivers out of phase or (c) reduce everything to mono.

 

2. Did you liberate your drivers?  If you did, make sure you don't have a crinkle in the driver.  Also make sure you haven't pulled your voice coil out of its alignment around the magnet.  Although nobody wants to touch the drivers, I'd do so if it were necessary to pushing the voice coil back.  Crinkles in the driver can be fixed by smoothing table over the Mylar and GENTLY pulling the dent out.  

 

3. Did you vent the diaphragm by popping holes in the driver back?  If so, it's possible that some tiny speck of dust or debris settled inside the driver.  This can be fixed by shaking and blowing.  While it's hard to shake too much, it pays to use good judgment when air blowing the back of the driver.

 

4. Are you wires solid?  Depending on the age of your headphones or any bumps that occurred along the way, you may want to check your connections.

 

5. Did you use the steam method or the hairdryer method in loosening the glue?  It's possible for a tiny amount of water vapor to affect driver performance.  The cure for this is to leave your headphones in a dry place for a few hours or days (depending on the condition).

 

6. Did you remove the grill cloth?  If you did, it's possible a single strand of hair is laying on the driver.  This can cause buzzing but it can also affect bass.  Anything that prevents the entire diaphragm from moving freely will affect bass.

 

7. Did you change left and right so that you're listening to the cups backwards?  In addition to affecting imaging, this can also affect your perception of bass.  I wouldn't go so far as to say it causes you to hear things backwards but when you're used to the bass being more prominent on one side and that bass is not there (because the cups have been reversed) it can make you wonder where the bass went.

post #1142 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by etteoh View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.


Hey Bill, this is one video I would love to watch. The partial liberation sounds the deal to me since it involves nearly no risk to the driver and at the same time the plastic chamber goes away. Good enough towards the making of a great sounding can if you ask me. Do holler when you get the video up k. Thanks again Bill!

 

For what it's worth, the video is up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNcAC6lCebs
 

post #1143 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by etteoh View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.


Hey Bill, this is one video I would love to watch. The partial liberation sounds the deal to me since it involves nearly no risk to the driver and at the same time the plastic chamber goes away. Good enough towards the making of a great sounding can if you ask me. Do holler when you get the video up k. Thanks again Bill!

 

For what it's worth, the video is up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNcAC6lCebs
 


It says the video is private

post #1144 of 5003


Yep video is marked as private for me too.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by etteoh View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.


Hey Bill, this is one video I would love to watch. The partial liberation sounds the deal to me since it involves nearly no risk to the driver and at the same time the plastic chamber goes away. Good enough towards the making of a great sounding can if you ask me. Do holler when you get the video up k. Thanks again Bill!

 

For what it's worth, the video is up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNcAC6lCebs
 


It says the video is private

post #1145 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Whoops!  Sorry about that!  I've fixed it.

post #1146 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Originally Posted by ejs811 View Post

HELP!

Just did mods today, and upon assembly the left cup has NO BASS!

 

Any idea what could have caused this? It sounds like when you hold your palm over the grill.

I changed the grill, opened 5 holes in the felt, damped the driver with felt.

 

Hope this can be fixed. frown.gif

 


Lots of questions.  Treat this as a troubleshooter's guide.  None of these questions are designed to lay any blame.

 

1. Did you de-solder and re-solder?  If you did, make sure you didn't switch the wires.  The ground wire is always the same color and it's always on the left.  Depending on the mismatch, crossing your wires can either (a) kill your bass, (b) put your drivers out of phase or (c) reduce everything to mono.

 

2. Did you liberate your drivers?  If you did, make sure you don't have a crinkle in the driver.  Also make sure you haven't pulled your voice coil out of its alignment around the magnet.  Although nobody wants to touch the drivers, I'd do so if it were necessary to pushing the voice coil back.  Crinkles in the driver can be fixed by smoothing table over the Mylar and GENTLY pulling the dent out.  

 

3. Did you vent the diaphragm by popping holes in the driver back?  If so, it's possible that some tiny speck of dust or debris settled inside the driver.  This can be fixed by shaking and blowing.  While it's hard to shake too much, it pays to use good judgment when air blowing the back of the driver.

 

4. Are you wires solid?  Depending on the age of your headphones or any bumps that occurred along the way, you may want to check your connections.

 

5. Did you use the steam method or the hairdryer method in loosening the glue?  It's possible for a tiny amount of water vapor to affect driver performance.  The cure for this is to leave your headphones in a dry place for a few hours or days (depending on the condition).

 

6. Did you remove the grill cloth?  If you did, it's possible a single strand of hair is laying on the driver.  This can cause buzzing but it can also affect bass.  Anything that prevents the entire diaphragm from moving freely will affect bass.

 

7. Did you change left and right so that you're listening to the cups backwards?  In addition to affecting imaging, this can also affect your perception of bass.  I wouldn't go so far as to say it causes you to hear things backwards but when you're used to the bass being more prominent on one side and that bass is not there (because the cups have been reversed) it can make you wonder where the bass went.


1. Did not solder...yet.

2. No

3. Yes.

4. Yes, cans are almost new.

5. Yes, and saw noticeable moisture after I did it. I left them on my heater @ low for a while, might not have been long enough.

6. Yes.

7. Perhaps, I did not mark them. Is the white or red wire leading to the right can? Or is it impossible to re-figure this out?

 

That being said, it was probably something on the driver or moisture, I will hang them out to dry to be safe but they sound fine right now.

 

Thanks B'Vid.

post #1147 of 5003

I removed the driver from an old busted MS-1 driver and found it came out pretty easily but it needs force. Enough force to bend the plastic of both the cup and driver. I can see the inner chamber but it looks like the partial mod is harder than the full liberation mod.

 

The inner chamber sits in VERY tight, with glue. Even with the driver removed it looks like a pain to remove the inner chamber...

post #1148 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by apatN View Post

I removed the driver from an old busted MS-1 driver and found it came out pretty easily but it needs force. Enough force to bend the plastic of both the cup and driver. I can see the inner chamber but it looks like the partial mod is harder than the full liberation mod.

 

The inner chamber sits in VERY tight, with glue. Even with the driver removed it looks like a pain to remove the inner chamber...


What you see in the video is more of an accident than any design.  I was trying to pop out the driver when I ended up popping off the ring.  For issues of manageability, I ended the video there, but in the rest of it, I'm having to meticulously remove the grill, which is held on by a thin metal wrapper of sorts.  If one were simply interested in removing the ring, there are less invasive and much easier ways to tear it off without getting up close and personal with the driver.  A pair of pliers would work wonders in this department.  The ring would be destroyed but that's not a problem when you realize how much of the driver's performance it is affecting.

post #1149 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Originally Posted by apatN View Post

I removed the driver from an old busted MS-1 driver and found it came out pretty easily but it needs force. Enough force to bend the plastic of both the cup and driver. I can see the inner chamber but it looks like the partial mod is harder than the full liberation mod.

 

The inner chamber sits in VERY tight, with glue. Even with the driver removed it looks like a pain to remove the inner chamber...


What you see in the video is more of an accident than any design.  I was trying to pop out the driver when I ended up popping off the ring.  For issues of manageability, I ended the video there, but in the rest of it, I'm having to meticulously remove the grill, which is held on by a thin metal wrapper of sorts.  If one were simply interested in removing the ring, there are less invasive and much easier ways to tear it off without getting up close and personal with the driver.  A pair of pliers would work wonders in this department.  The ring would be destroyed but that's not a problem when you realize how much of the driver's performance it is affecting.


I think that's about as far as I would want to go. I think a partially liberated driver with just the ring removed would be ideal. From there place place the partially liberated driver into a new wooden inner like the HF2 or directly into the cup. Perhaps the latter would be better, not sure. What have you been doing and how much does it effect the sound?

 

I've also figured out that I can only use the jumbos with my Sparrow. Plugged into my Clip just not enough oomph.

post #1150 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

So what is the verdict on using CAT 5e or CAT 6 cable on headphones? Also can someone point me toward the parts I would need to make detachable cables for each ear?



Hey Now,

 

I just re-cabled my Fostex T40 v1 with Cat6 cable. I modded the single entry into a dual entry and terminated using a balanced 4-pin XLR. I had about 6 feet of Cat6 cable laying around doing nothing. I had read some folks were using it for headphones. I stripped the sheath off and found 8 wires, I think 26awg. There were 4 twisted pairs. I used 2 twisted pairs for each side. I braided the 4 twisted strands, I'll say it is colorful to say the least. It sounds pretty good for a 5 dollar cable 8^). It is stiff and microphonic. I am not sure if a techflex covering would reduce the microphonics, it will not help with the stiffness. I may have used too tight of a braid as well. I used some white shrink wrap from the cups to the yoke.

 

Fostex re-cabled with Cat6_balanced 4pin.JPG

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

post #1151 of 5003

Hey Now,

 

Since I was taking photos, here is my woodied SR325 (s/n 936) conversion with the Bilavideo mods. I received these woodied 325s in a trade. The cups I believe are walnut, but one side had a split. I repaired the split with epoxy. Not pretty but solid. The headphones had been re-cabled SE with some good quality copper, so I kept that. I re-terminated with a Neutrik 4-pin XLR. I punched all 10 holes with my old Palm Pilot stylus, works perfect. I damped the driver and the plastic cup with Dynamat. Removed the screen as well. Using some gimbal locks with rubber washers. Got a pair of jumbo pads and they sound great. I am using them balanced at the moment thru my Opus DAC and A-GD Roc. Very wide soundstage, good bass impact and smooth trebles, it's all good 8^).

 

SR325_1.JPG

 

SR325_2.JPG

 

I bought a pair of old SR60s a while back and re-cabled with Mogami_mini-quad W2893 terminated with a 1/8" Switchcraft plug. Then starting reading this thread. I have done all the same mods except that I used felt instead of Dynamat, I am going to replace the felt with Dynamat. It sounds better I think. I got these walnut wood cups in the same trade for SR325s. Both cups were split and again epoxy is your friend. Not pretty but very functional. I am using a Beyer headband. These are for portable use primarily.

 

SR60_1.JPG

 

SR60_2.JPG

 

The SR60s sound close to the SR325s. I think I will get even closer when I swap out the felt on the SR60s with Dynamat.

 

Thanks for all the info and inspiration in this thread. These pair of Grados sound better than I could have imagined. I am throughly enjoying them.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

 

 

post #1152 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccklone View Post

 

SR60_2.JPG

 

The SR60s sound close to the SR325s. I think I will get even closer when I swap out the felt on the SR60s with Dynamat.

 

Thanks for all the info and inspiration in this thread. These pair of Grados sound better than I could have imagined. I am throughly enjoying them.

 

 

Is that a Beyerdynamic headband I spot? If it is, how do you like it?

post #1153 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post



 

Is that a Beyerdynamic headband I spot? If it is, how do you like it?



Hey Now,

 

Yeppers, it sure is. For 10 dolla it be fine. Seriously, it fits good on the SR60 band and provides some decent cushioning. I can wear the SR60s for much longer than without the Beyer headband. It does not fit on the SR325 whose band is much wider. I tried to buy a J$ headband but Jeremy has discontinued selling them. Anyone out there want to sell me their J$ headband? beerchug.gif

 

I have an extra Beyer band if you want to try it. PM me your snail mail addy. I'll get it off to you.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris

post #1154 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccklone View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post



 

Is that a Beyerdynamic headband I spot? If it is, how do you like it?



Hey Now,

 

Yeppers, it sure is. For 10 dolla it be fine. Seriously, it fits good on the SR60 band and provides some decent cushioning. I can wear the SR60s for much longer than without the Beyer headband. It does not fit on the SR325 whose band is much wider. I tried to buy a J$ headband but Jeremy has discontinued selling them. Anyone out there want to sell me their J$ headband? beerchug.gif

 

I have an extra Beyer band if you want to try it. PM me your snail mail addy. I'll get it off to you.

 

--

Finest kind,

Chris


Wait, really? Cool!!! biggrin.gif

 

Also, http://www.headphone.com/accessories/jmoney-grado-lambskin-headband.php

post #1155 of 5003

So I managed to get some Mahogany yesterday. After spending many hours in Atlantic City last night, I was able to get six rings cut using a drill press today, huge improvement over a hand drill. I am in the process of finely sanding the inner circles so I can finish them with a few different things to see what I like the most. Tomorrow will be on to finishing sanding on a pair or two of the rings so they are ready for their finish.

 

I already love the way the Mahogany looks and works. It was great to cut using the press and is very much harder than the oak. It also weights a good bit more. It will be interesting to see what I decide to finish them with. Am experimenting with plain lacquer, Minwax Mahogany colored stain, and Boiled Linseed oil. If I am not happy with any of these, I will likely be getting some Tung Oil to try that out.

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