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SR60-Mod - Page 76  

post #1126 of 5003

Yep, I did the same, stuck a steak knife through the middle and most of it ripped off with my hands except a few threads here and there 
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by ejs811 View Post

Looks like the screen on the pad side of the cans was glued to the whole front.

I had to cut out each little hole with a fresh surgical blade in lieu trying to remove the whole cloth.



I kind of pulled up a corner of that white clothe and then pulled it off the front. It is a very weak glue once you can get a grip on the clothe and pull.

post #1127 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

OriginalDriver.jpg

 

DriverAndWoody.jpg

 

 

Is that your stuff?

 

post #1128 of 5003

That is actually when another site did a visual tour of Grado Labs.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

OriginalDriver.jpg

 

DriverAndWoody.jpg

 

 

Is that your stuff?

 

post #1129 of 5003


Those pictures, (juding their whole operation by two pictures[which is obviously unfair]) leads me to believe that all their drivers ARE identical at least at the core level.  I mean, just looking at the picture with the worker, it looks like those drivers are being mounted into those *********** (insert rage filled comments here) cages with no real way to determine any difference.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abovetheair View Post

That is actually when another site did a visual tour of Grado Labs.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

OriginalDriver.jpg

 

DriverAndWoody.jpg

 

 

Is that your stuff?

 


 
post #1130 of 5003

Well, are they are going into the same headphone model? If so then these should already be sorted and ready to go into that particular headphone. If you sort everything then the process goes much quicker.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Narynan View Post


Those pictures, (juding their whole operation by two pictures[which is obviously unfair]) leads me to believe that all their drivers ARE identical at least at the core level.  I mean, just looking at the picture with the worker, it looks like those drivers are being mounted into those *********** (insert rage filled comments here) cages with no real way to determine any difference.
 

 


 

 
post #1131 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

OriginalDriver.jpg

 

DriverAndWoody.jpg

 

 

Is that your stuff?

 


This is straight off the webpage for Grado Labs.  http://www.gradolabs.com/frameset_main.htm

 

I inserted it, not to make light of Grado's production methods - which get the job done - so much as to show that the plastic ring is not part of the driver and that the driver can be separated from it without going as far as I did.  My method of "full plastic liberation" scares people.  It can be done fairly quickly (if the wind is at your back) but it does involve an element of risk (one which has bitten me in the backside, too).  "Partial liberation" is what Grado employs for the RS2, RS1, GS1000, PS1000 and HF2.  To be more accurate, it's the process of turning the clock back to what Grado started with (the driver, itself).  Grado doesn't "liberate" the driver on these models; it doesn't have to.  Grado simply never installed the plastic ring in the first place.

post #1132 of 5003


Meh.  Or not.  Again, I am being judgemental about a single picture. 

 

So let it be written...
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abovetheair View Post

Well, are they are going into the same headphone model? If so then these should already be sorted and ready to go into that particular headphone. If you sort everything then the process goes much quicker.
 

post #1133 of 5003

Bila, on that note.  I got the SR60 issue taken care of.  So the actual build down is going to start again tomorrow.  Its going to be awesome.  I'll be taking lots of pic on my Tmobile G2 and getting them up here after the whole deal.  I dont know if we are going to do more than just cut the bowls or what tomorrow.  But reguardless, I am excited.biggrin.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post


This is straight off the webpage for Grado Labs.  http://www.gradolabs.com/frameset_main.htm

 

I inserted it, not to make light of Grado's production methods - which get the job done - so much as to show that the plastic ring is not part of the driver and that the driver can be separated from it without going as far as I did.  My method of "full plastic liberation" scares people.  It can be done fairly quickly (if the wind is at your back) but it does involve an element of risk (one which has bitten me in the backside, too).  "Partial liberation" is what Grado employs for the RS2, RS1, GS1000, PS1000 and HF2.  To be more accurate, it's the process of turning the clock back to what Grado started with (the driver, itself).  Grado doesn't "liberate" the driver on these models; it doesn't have to.  Grado simply never installed the plastic ring in the first place.

post #1134 of 5003

I'm confused what ring are we talking about? Also I have the sr-80i so I took some pics of the insides (the best I could for now) just wondering how different they look from the sr60.IMG_0730.JPGIMG_0729.JPG

IMG_0728.JPG

post #1135 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

I'm confused what ring are we talking about? Also I have the sr-80i so I took some pics of the insides (the best I could for now) just wondering how different they look from the sr60.

 

IMG_0730.JPG

 


You see that ridge in the plastic? There are two rings glued together. I'll get out MS paint if I have to, but I don't really want to.

post #1136 of 5003

Ok I see. None of the exposed plastic is part of the driver then?

post #1137 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

Ok I see. None of the exposed plastic is part of the driver then?


You see the part with holes that you removed the cloth from? That part is the driver. The part with holes is glued onto the driver. The driver is then glued to the inner shell.

post #1138 of 5003

HELP!

Just did mods today, and upon assembly the left cup has NO BASS!

 

Any idea what could have caused this? It sounds like when you hold your palm over the grill.

I changed the grill, opened 5 holes in the felt, damped the driver with felt.

 

Hope this can be fixed. frown.gif

 

post #1139 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejs811 View Post

HELP!

Just did mods today, and upon assembly the left cup has NO BASS!

 

Any idea what could have caused this? It sounds like when you hold your palm over the grill.

I changed the grill, opened 5 holes in the felt, damped the driver with felt.

 

Hope this can be fixed. frown.gif

 


Any chance you knocked a wire loose? That happens when I have mine plugged into things with weak phone jacks, so I'm assuming that the same thing can happen at the driver end of the cable.
post #1140 of 5003

Hm, well I just fixed it- not sure how though.

I think perhaps there was an indent in the plastic over the driver.

I was carefully examining it and heard a pop, as if the indent became un-indented. Not sure if this was even the cause.

 

Sounds great- bass galore.

 

Endless appreciation to all who contributed tips and the like!

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