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SR60-Mod - Page 75  

post #1111 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Narynan View Post

Yea, its ok.  Im glad i didnt decide to do something like this to my 325i's.  Oh well.  I will be getting another set of SR-60's with my tax money.  And I know that I am going to get the bowls on them, but I think I am done messing with the driver housing.  Everyrthing else was a cake walk in comparison, and to be honest, when I saw bila's video of him tearing at that for 9 minutes, I should have basically said,  "yeah...  BLANK that."  Its a shame though, I was really thinking making a wood driver housing for the alum shells on those 325's would have created a really unique sound.  Oh well.  I guess when these sr-60's are done with, i can button mod the 325's vent em, and be done with it.  Removing the driver just seems to be unbridaled hate.  Its so hard to do, and really, I had a much easier time of it than Bila did on his video.  And if something so strange can happen on the first go, I really can't say that I would do it a second time, or even recommend it to anyone else who is thinking of moving forward.  Every other set in this thread is awesome and is easy to do.  But those getting the speakers out of there... probally not for the faint of heart, or those willing to take a what seems to be good chance at breaking their cans, reguardless if they are sr-60 on up the line.  If I had just a blank driver I could pop in, now THAT would be a different story all together.


There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.

post #1112 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Narynan View Post

Yea, its ok.  Im glad i didnt decide to do something like this to my 325i's.  Oh well.  I will be getting another set of SR-60's with my tax money.  And I know that I am going to get the bowls on them, but I think I am done messing with the driver housing.  Everyrthing else was a cake walk in comparison, and to be honest, when I saw bila's video of him tearing at that for 9 minutes, I should have basically said,  "yeah...  BLANK that."  Its a shame though, I was really thinking making a wood driver housing for the alum shells on those 325's would have created a really unique sound.  Oh well.  I guess when these sr-60's are done with, i can button mod the 325's vent em, and be done with it.  Removing the driver just seems to be unbridaled hate.  Its so hard to do, and really, I had a much easier time of it than Bila did on his video.  And if something so strange can happen on the first go, I really can't say that I would do it a second time, or even recommend it to anyone else who is thinking of moving forward.  Every other set in this thread is awesome and is easy to do.  But those getting the speakers out of there... probally not for the faint of heart, or those willing to take a what seems to be good chance at breaking their cans, reguardless if they are sr-60 on up the line.  If I had just a blank driver I could pop in, now THAT would be a different story all together.



I'm wondering if a dremel to the outer plastic shell to weaken it would be better than prying on the inside? Maybe not even a dremel some wire cutters should do 

Far be it for me to discourage exploration, but I've tried dremeling the outer shell and I didn't like it very much.  It gets very nasty.  If you're slicing plastic, you get a very rough cut.  You end up with lots of shredded plastic.  If you try to sand it, you'll end up with toxic fumes and an oily, smelly result.  It's actually better to use the leverage to break down the structural integrity of the shell wall and then strip it from the plastic disc.  If you manage this, you'll have found the sweet spot, with the driver protected by its grill but no longer cupped in plastic.

post #1113 of 5003


Ok, Im going to be very clear here, as to warn anyone else from doing this thinking it couldn't happen to them.  I didn't cut the cable.  It broke.  It tore out of the white putty or insulation or what that white stuff is that runs from the mylar down to the solder points.  That stuff broke in that last little pull getting it of the chamber.  My guess at this point is, there are these 10 weird little lips within the side wall of the driver when you are looking at the driver wall / housing.  They sit about 10mm above the driver, and I think in just the pull out that the driver shifted about and caught one of those.  It caught the side of one, and snapped.  Or it broke on the way out.  You do need to be careful when using the screw driver on the sides of the can to start to pry the speaker out of there down near the bottom part where the connectors are.  But it appears if you dont loosen it up near there, you still need to get the screwdriver down in that area to help create seperation.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 

Originally Posted by Narynan View Post

Yea, its ok.  Im glad i didnt decide to do something like this to my 325i's.  Oh well.  I will be getting another set of SR-60's with my tax money.  And I know that I am going to get the bowls on them, but I think I am done messing with the driver housing.  Everyrthing else was a cake walk in comparison, and to be honest, when I saw bila's video of him tearing at that for 9 minutes, I should have basically said,  "yeah...  BLANK that."  Its a shame though, I was really thinking making a wood driver housing for the alum shells on those 325's would have created a really unique sound.  Oh well.  I guess when these sr-60's are done with, i can button mod the 325's vent em, and be done with it.  Removing the driver just seems to be unbridaled hate.  Its so hard to do, and really, I had a much easier time of it than Bila did on his video.  And if something so strange can happen on the first go, I really can't say that I would do it a second time, or even recommend it to anyone else who is thinking of moving forward.  Every other set in this thread is awesome and is easy to do.  But those getting the speakers out of there... probally not for the faint of heart, or those willing to take a what seems to be good chance at breaking their cans, reguardless if they are sr-60 on up the line.  If I had just a blank driver I could pop in, now THAT would be a different story all together.


There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.

post #1114 of 5003
Thread Starter 

The white putty area at the bottom of the driver is definitely off-limits.  It's where the terminals on the back of the driver connect to the hair-thin voice coil wires that make all the difference between having a driver and having a worthless piece of plastic.

 

If anyone is going to attempt a full liberation of the driver, they should be careful to avoid this area as much as possible, lifting from the other three corners of the driver.

 

If anyone is going to attempt a partial liberation, the goal will not be to remove the driver so much as to weaken the side walls of the plastic ring at the back of the driver.  A person could just as well take a pair of pliers to this material and simply work the plastic loose.  Doing so will leave a plastic disc - the driver, itself.  It won't remove plastic from the front of the driver, but it also won't expose that area.  Instead, you'll have what Grado has when it assembles its RS1s, as shown in the following pictures:

 

OriginalDriver.jpg

 

DriverAndWoody.jpg

 

If you want the best of both worlds - with plastic reduction balanced by driver safety - you can't go wrong by stopping where Grado stops.  While Grado could go plastic free at the high end, it doesn't - and perhaps hasn't since the PS1 and the HP1000.  It starts with the plastic disc.  For the Prestige series, it glues on plastic rings; for the woodies, it drops the original disc into its wooden shells.  If more headfiers were aware they could remove the ring without necessarily exposing the front of the driver, I suspect there would be a greater clamor for wooden shells up front as well as the slip-ons used for the rear chamber.

post #1115 of 5003

This is alot more along the lines of what I am going to do with my second attempt.

post #1116 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

There's a compromise between full liberation and settling for a plastic inner.  You might call it semi-liberation.  I discovered this by accident.  With full liberation, you are exposed to the danger you spoke of and have to be careful about that pad area around six o'clock.  Cut that fine cabling from the pad to the voice coil and you've got a Gone-o.  I've made the same mistake on several occasions.  It's tricky.  But if you're interested in half a loaf, consider this.  The plastic housing that forms the front/inner cup is actually made of two parts.  The plastic container holding and protecting the driver is lodged within a plastic ring, the part that stuffs into the rear chamber.  The process of removing the driver can be used to strip away the plastic ring, rather than expose the diaphragm.  What you end up with is something that looks like a microphone.  You've got a round, plastic disc holding the driver, but with no hood or ring going back.  This stripping involves absolutely no danger to the driver whatsoever, but it pares away the extra plastic.

 

I have a video of this I could upload at a later time.  In that video, I show you how to remove the ring without doing anything to disturb the front of the driver.


Hey Bill, this is one video I would love to watch. The partial liberation sounds the deal to me since it involves nearly no risk to the driver and at the same time the plastic chamber goes away. Good enough towards the making of a great sounding can if you ask me. Do holler when you get the video up k. Thanks again Bill!

 

And Narynan, sorry about the broken driver dude. It's always painful losing a driver like that...the consolation is, the experience you get in return. Still, a broken Grado or any headphone driver always suck and I feel for you.

post #1117 of 5003

I just wanted to post this, I got my 3 feet of 4 braided wire from HGA, some heatshrink, and the Neutrik plug is the same as the one on my Null Audio Enyo Cable from Parts Express that I like so much. 3 feet is about perfect for me, because I really only listen to music when I am sitting at my desk at home, or working out in the clinic before work.  The wire and plug cost me about $40.  I hate to jump on the bandwagon, but the sound is much clearer, more detailed, just wow.  Everything is very detailed,the bass is textured, and tight.  This also brings up the treble detail which I like a lot.  I think I'll use another sentence using the word detailed.  I am very happy as I hoped I would be, I'm one of the people who advocate a cable upgrade for the Triple Fi 10s.  The cable really cleans up the sound a lot.  I don't have the vocabulary to express how much better the sound is.  Sorry about the quality this is from my iphone.

 

I forgot to mention this phone seems much more portable without the garden hose cable.  I've done this before with a Koss KSC75 cable in a bind.

 

 

180099_10150193011853849_718518848_8675981_5752716_n.jpg

post #1118 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

   

 

180099_10150193011853849_718518848_8675981_5752716_n.jpg



Nice work!!

post #1119 of 5003

Ideed. Removal of the inner plastic wall seems much more manageable than removal of the driver. Could you please upload that video Bill?

post #1120 of 5003

I think my idea would work a lot better. Basically you take a pair of diagonal pliers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers and follow this picture:

grado.png

post #1121 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

I think my idea would work a lot better. Basically you take a pair of diagonal pliers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers and follow this picture:

grado.png


I'll go ahead and try this on my dead driver.

post #1122 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthrax View Post

I think my idea would work a lot better. Basically you take a pair of diagonal pliers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers and follow this picture:

grado.png


I'll go ahead and try this on my dead driver.


Success. When you get down to the bottom, cut through the lip (where you put the pads on) carefully. Mine split fairly easily. I think it would be easier to get the driver out once you cut the inner wall off, but I'm not sure as my driver has already been taken out.

post #1123 of 5003

Man I need to find some quality wood to cut out. I love the color of stained wood and metal together. As someone already mentioned brass and wood cups would be the cheese. 

post #1124 of 5003

Looks like the screen on the pad side of the cans was glued to the whole front.

I had to cut out each little hole with a fresh surgical blade in lieu trying to remove the whole cloth.

post #1125 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejs811 View Post

Looks like the screen on the pad side of the cans was glued to the whole front.

I had to cut out each little hole with a fresh surgical blade in lieu trying to remove the whole cloth.



I kind of pulled up a corner of that white clothe and then pulled it off the front. It is a very weak glue once you can get a grip on the clothe and pull.

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