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SR60-Mod - Page 71  

post #1051 of 5003

Wow those look great.  I love the dark color and black grills.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZetsuBozu0012 View Post

Dangit, that looks so awesome blink.gif

 

Anyway, how far up the Grado ladder would you say the mods are about now? I'm thinking the 235s are looking pretty shabby about now :))
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Alrighty, here are pictures of my newly put together, stained, lacquered, and grilled "oakies". This is as far as I am going to take the oak, unless I can't get my hands on some mahogany this weekend.

 

IMGP2126.JPG

 

IMGP2131.JPG


 
post #1052 of 5003

I've been following this thread closely, and I've got a couple questions before I get some more Grados and do these mods myself.

 

First off, do you know how big of a difference there is between the 225 drivers and the 60i/80i drivers? Someone in my area is selling the SR225 (non i) for $125, and I can get some new SR80i for around $90 or some new SR60i for around $55. If I am going to take away the housing and such anyways, which do you recommend I get? would the SR225 be worth the extra even if I'm just going to strip it down to the drivers?

 

Second, I will be getting some carbon fiber this week to play around with. Do you know if the weave matters? I am getting an unconventional weave instead of a standard weave (my friend had some spare so he's giving it to me for free!) Also on the CF topic, how much does the type of epoxy matter? I know you're supposed to use a thinner, runnier epoxy when working with CF, but since that will be completely coating the carbon fiber I'd imagine it will have a significant impact on the sound, no?

 

Lastly, what qualities does the cup material impart on the sound, and how does it do it? Is it because the sound waves reflect off wood instead of plastic, or that there is wood contacting the driver which helps dampen vibrations more, or that the whole cup is slightly vibrating with the driver, helping with the bass? I remember some discussions about this earlier on, but I couldn't deduce this from those. The reason I ask is because I'm thinking about going towards a hybrid CF and wood route. What parts would ideally be wood and what parts would ideally be CF? I know Billavideo makes two wooden sleeves for each driver, so I could do one out of CF and one out of wood. Alternatively, a more exotic solution I was thinking of would be to make layered cups out of wood veneer and carbon fiber. i.e. You could wrap a couple layers of veneer around a pipe, glue that in place, then wrap some CF on top of that, then either finish with more veneer or leave it like that. You could also play around with the order of the layers, hence the reason why I was wondering if it's the contact with the driver or the reflecting sound waves that imparts positive qualities. What do you guys think of this? And let me know if any of that didn't make sense, I'm in the middle of a 6-8 hour E&M problem set right now so my mind is a bit frazzled at the moment.

post #1053 of 5003

The Grado 225 IMO opinion is a better sounding headphone vs the SR60 and SR80. As far as the carbon fiber question I am clueless.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandstefanwich View Post

I've been following this thread closely, and I've got a couple questions before I get some more Grados and do these mods myself.

 

First off, do you know how big of a difference there is between the 225 drivers and the 60i/80i drivers? Someone in my area is selling the SR225 (non i) for $125, and I can get some new SR80i for around $90 or some new SR60i for around $55. If I am going to take away the housing and such anyways, which do you recommend I get? would the SR225 be worth the extra even if I'm just going to strip it down to the drivers?

 

Second, I will be getting some carbon fiber this week to play around with. Do you know if the weave matters? I am getting an unconventional weave instead of a standard weave (my friend had some spare so he's giving it to me for free!) Also on the CF topic, how much does the type of epoxy matter? I know you're supposed to use a thinner, runnier epoxy when working with CF, but since that will be completely coating the carbon fiber I'd imagine it will have a significant impact on the sound, no?

 

Lastly, what qualities does the cup material impart on the sound, and how does it do it? Is it because the sound waves reflect off wood instead of plastic, or that there is wood contacting the driver which helps dampen vibrations more, or that the whole cup is slightly vibrating with the driver, helping with the bass? I remember some discussions about this earlier on, but I couldn't deduce this from those. The reason I ask is because I'm thinking about going towards a hybrid CF and wood route. What parts would ideally be wood and what parts would ideally be CF? I know Billavideo makes two wooden sleeves for each driver, so I could do one out of CF and one out of wood. Alternatively, a more exotic solution I was thinking of would be to make layered cups out of wood veneer and carbon fiber. i.e. You could wrap a couple layers of veneer around a pipe, glue that in place, then wrap some CF on top of that, then either finish with more veneer or leave it like that. You could also play around with the order of the layers, hence the reason why I was wondering if it's the contact with the driver or the reflecting sound waves that imparts positive qualities. What do you guys think of this? And let me know if any of that didn't make sense, I'm in the middle of a 6-8 hour E&M problem set right now so my mind is a bit frazzled at the moment.

post #1054 of 5003

Supposedly the drivers get better as the numbers go up, but there really isn't that huge of a difference between the SR60-SR125. The SR225s are supposed to be a decent step up from the lower end cans, but that might be due to the improved venting. If you're just extract the driver and put it into entirely new housing, you might want to take a look at the iGrados that are in the FS forum. Same driver, $30. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandstefanwich View Post

I've been following this thread closely, and I've got a couple questions before I get some more Grados and do these mods myself.

 

First off, do you know how big of a difference there is between the 225 drivers and the 60i/80i drivers? Someone in my area is selling the SR225 (non i) for $125, and I can get some new SR80i for around $90 or some new SR60i for around $55. If I am going to take away the housing and such anyways, which do you recommend I get? would the SR225 be worth the extra even if I'm just going to strip it down to the drivers?

 

Second, I will be getting some carbon fiber this week to play around with. Do you know if the weave matters? I am getting an unconventional weave instead of a standard weave (my friend had some spare so he's giving it to me for free!) Also on the CF topic, how much does the type of epoxy matter? I know you're supposed to use a thinner, runnier epoxy when working with CF, but since that will be completely coating the carbon fiber I'd imagine it will have a significant impact on the sound, no?

 

Lastly, what qualities does the cup material impart on the sound, and how does it do it? Is it because the sound waves reflect off wood instead of plastic, or that there is wood contacting the driver which helps dampen vibrations more, or that the whole cup is slightly vibrating with the driver, helping with the bass? I remember some discussions about this earlier on, but I couldn't deduce this from those. The reason I ask is because I'm thinking about going towards a hybrid CF and wood route. What parts would ideally be wood and what parts would ideally be CF? I know Billavideo makes two wooden sleeves for each driver, so I could do one out of CF and one out of wood. Alternatively, a more exotic solution I was thinking of would be to make layered cups out of wood veneer and carbon fiber. i.e. You could wrap a couple layers of veneer around a pipe, glue that in place, then wrap some CF on top of that, then either finish with more veneer or leave it like that. You could also play around with the order of the layers, hence the reason why I was wondering if it's the contact with the driver or the reflecting sound waves that imparts positive qualities. What do you guys think of this? And let me know if any of that didn't make sense, I'm in the middle of a 6-8 hour E&M problem set right now so my mind is a bit frazzled at the moment.

post #1055 of 5003
Thread Starter 

I FINALLY CRACKED THE CODE!  

 

When I first started making these shells, I made them to my own specifications.  I wanted larger rings, to show off the wood.  When those larger rings no longer fit the C-clamps, I simply popped the pins and let the C-clamps grip them like a monkey gripping a banana.  But when friends starting asking for shells, shells they would put on their own mods, I could no longer rely on my own specifications.

 

Eventually the day would come when I would need to make my outer shells fit their inner shells (2 inches) while also fitting the traditional Grado C-clamps (2 3/8).  The problem is that 3/8 of an inch isn't much clearance.  The wood it leaves is practically a potato chip.  I can't begin to describe the frustration that seized me as I tried to make shells that were both thick enough for durability while also fitting within the original Grado design.

 

I love my original creations.  It annoys me to no end that they were too much for the traditionally-sized gimbal.  It also annoys me that bringing them within Grado's tight tolerances threatened to turn them into eggshells, with most of the best wood ending up on the cutting floor.

 

Well, I finally found the answer I was looking for.

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.21 #4.jpg

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.21 #3.jpg

 

For anybody who wants to duplicate this shell, I used three drill saws: 2 3/8", 2" and 1 5/8".  The idea is to build a ring with dimensions between 1 5/8" and 2 3/8" and then to create a groove with a 2" saw that allows the plastic inner to be inserted directly into the wood.

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.21 #2.jpg

 

The plastic inners fit snugly into these shells, with no shimming and no glue.

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.21.jpg

 

The important thing is that these shells will fit both the inner shells and the C-clamps without sacrificing durability.

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.20 #3.jpg

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.20 #2.jpg

 

My only regret (and it's a minor one) is centering the horizontal holes in the middle of the shell, which seemed like a good idea at the time.  In reality, these holes need to be closer to the front for the sake of balance.

 

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.20.jpg

 

Fixing this will be easy.  And for those who ask how I got the holes to line up, I went with simplicity itself.  I drilled through both sides at the same time.  All I had to do was make sure each shell was centered below my drill press.  I made sure I had plenty of rod length on the drill bit, enabling me to drill through both sides.  If you take care of the horizontal clamp holes first, you can always go back and put in the hole for the cable, unless you'd rather put in an indentation allowing the shell to be slipped onto the plastic without having to desolder and resolder.

post #1056 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by burnliff View Post

Supposedly the drivers get better as the numbers go up, but there really isn't that huge of a difference between the SR60-SR125. The SR225s are supposed to be a decent step up from the lower end cans, but that might be due to the improved venting. If you're just extract the driver and put it into entirely new housing, you might want to take a look at the iGrados that are in the FS forum. Same driver, $30. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandstefanwich View Post

I've been following this thread closely, and I've got a couple questions before I get some more Grados and do these mods myself.

 

First off, do you know how big of a difference there is between the 225 drivers and the 60i/80i drivers? Someone in my area is selling the SR225 (non i) for $125, and I can get some new SR80i for around $90 or some new SR60i for around $55. If I am going to take away the housing and such anyways, which do you recommend I get? would the SR225 be worth the extra even if I'm just going to strip it down to the drivers?

 

Second, I will be getting some carbon fiber this week to play around with. Do you know if the weave matters? I am getting an unconventional weave instead of a standard weave (my friend had some spare so he's giving it to me for free!) Also on the CF topic, how much does the type of epoxy matter? I know you're supposed to use a thinner, runnier epoxy when working with CF, but since that will be completely coating the carbon fiber I'd imagine it will have a significant impact on the sound, no?

 

Lastly, what qualities does the cup material impart on the sound, and how does it do it? Is it because the sound waves reflect off wood instead of plastic, or that there is wood contacting the driver which helps dampen vibrations more, or that the whole cup is slightly vibrating with the driver, helping with the bass? I remember some discussions about this earlier on, but I couldn't deduce this from those. The reason I ask is because I'm thinking about going towards a hybrid CF and wood route. What parts would ideally be wood and what parts would ideally be CF? I know Billavideo makes two wooden sleeves for each driver, so I could do one out of CF and one out of wood. Alternatively, a more exotic solution I was thinking of would be to make layered cups out of wood veneer and carbon fiber. i.e. You could wrap a couple layers of veneer around a pipe, glue that in place, then wrap some CF on top of that, then either finish with more veneer or leave it like that. You could also play around with the order of the layers, hence the reason why I was wondering if it's the contact with the driver or the reflecting sound waves that imparts positive qualities. What do you guys think of this? And let me know if any of that didn't make sense, I'm in the middle of a 6-8 hour E&M problem set right now so my mind is a bit frazzled at the moment.


 


I was really considering those iGrados, but the only thing is they don't come with headband and gimbals and rods. I don't have the tools or materials to make my own headbands at the moment, and it seems like rather tedious work. Are you sure they're the same drivers though? I know they have the same dimensions, etc., but they might be doped differently? I know it's a heated discussion about whether Grado uses the exact same drivers for their whole lineup up to the GS1000 and PS1000, but is there anyone who knows for sure if there is any difference between them besides venting, etc?

post #1057 of 5003

Wow, Bill! Good job!

 

post #1058 of 5003

And if you ever want to lighten the shell further, you can drill small holes in an array through the groove.

post #1059 of 5003

Stunning job Bill! I suppose my cocobolos will be built to these new specs? ksc75smile.gif

post #1060 of 5003

Bill.....very cool stuff, send some when you can.........have you tried the chamber mod I posted with the foam grill??? It sounds better everyday.......The wood, with the chamber on the back will rock!!!!   

post #1061 of 5003

Love this thread thanks for all the info guys.  I do have a question though...

 

Venting.  From looking at the pictures in Page 1 from Bilavideoin the time to vent section, it seem like you just take a small phillips screw driver and pop a hole into the foam to create the vent.  This also seems like that after getting the cups open, and then just shoving something through to vent the hole I would be causing damage to the driver / speaker.  Is that the case?  The picture dont show 1) How to punch the hole 2) whats one the other side of the hole and how careful we havwe to be. 

 

Would anyone be willing to clarify this for me?

post #1062 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Photo on 2011-01-26 at 19.21 #3.jpg

 

For anybody who wants to duplicate this shell, I used three drill saws: 2 3/8", 2" and 1 5/8".  The idea is to build a ring with dimensions between 1 5/8" and 2 3/8" and then to create a groove with a 2" saw that allows the plastic inner to be inserted directly into the wood.

 

Bill those look awesome, how far away are you from cracking the code on a wooden inner?

 

 

Edit: and maybe a wooden outer to hold the grill screen?

post #1063 of 5003

You do have to be somewhat careful when you vent and you don't want to just stick a screw driver through unless you know what you are doing exactly. The best way IMO is to use a ballpoint pen due to the gradual increase in thickness meaning you cannot poke too far. I believe this method was explained by Bill somewhere as well... I tried it poking four holes and it worked flawless.

dgcrane

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Narynan View Post

Love this thread thanks for all the info guys.  I do have a question though...

 

Venting.  From looking at the pictures in Page 1 from Bilavideoin the time to vent section, it seem like you just take a small phillips screw driver and pop a hole into the foam to create the vent.  This also seems like that after getting the cups open, and then just shoving something through to vent the hole I would be causing damage to the driver / speaker.  Is that the case?  The picture dont show 1) How to punch the hole 2) whats one the other side of the hole and how careful we havwe to be. 

 

Would anyone be willing to clarify this for me?

post #1064 of 5003

Bill,

 

I know this is a bit off topic, but did you ever have any other ideas for making a headband for the igrado?  Considering having one for more portable use, the Cocobolo 60s have the gentle life at home...I can see a galvanized steel wire as the headband frame, but what would you fabricate to make it fit to the ear parts

post #1065 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimChee View Post

Bill,

 

I know this is a bit off topic, but did you ever have any other ideas for making a headband for the igrado?  Considering having one for more portable use, the Cocobolo 60s have the gentle life at home...I can see a galvanized steel wire as the headband frame, but what would you fabricate to make it fit to the ear parts

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/508580/heavy-grado-modding-project/30#post_7223561

Here's how this guy did it

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