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SR60-Mod - Page 8  

post #106 of 5003
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by earthpeople View Post

Thanks for this thread, Bilavideo. I recently got a pair of SR80s and I'm considering doing some of these mods you've posted. I really want to try making some wooden cups for them, and I was thinking it might not be too difficult if I used a drill press and a solid block of wood. It'll be a while (probably around Thanksgiving or Winter break, unfortunately) before I have access to the equipment, but I'll follow up if I get some nice results.

I look forward to seeing how that comes out.  I have a birthday coming up (the big 4-5) and my wife has told me not to buy a drill press.  Something tells me I'm not getting a tie.


It's cool when we're able to share info and insights.  I had wondered if a hole saw would work, but stopped having to wonder when somebody did a big spread about distancers.  He went over what he did, step by step, and it really helped me figure out what I might try.  One way or another, the restless at heart will find a way - with help and encouragement from our little community at HeadFi.

Edited by Bilavideo - 8/29/10 at 7:40am
post #107 of 5003
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

Well, I'm inclined to compare it all to buying a certain "flavor" of ice cream with buying vanilla and putting those flavors in myself.  I'm sure there are some great brands of "cherry ice cream," but none that compare to buying vanilla and putting in fresh cherries of my own.  If you're willing to pop the hood, it's amazing what you can do on your own - and on the cheap.

Very true. I modded my old SR60's/80's many times, but in the end preferred John Grado's original work over my own. Modding is actually fun and both arouses and satisfies our curiosities. BTW great woodworking! I get the feeling that you are the forum member who is eventually going to come up with a unique innovative design that will sound different from everything else.

post #108 of 5003
Thread Starter 

Thanks, Beagle.  That was nice of you to say.  I hope you're right.  At the moment, it's one step forward two steps back, but given enough time, there's hope of running into the truth - even if I have to hit it while riding a pogo stick.  The cool thing about HeadFi is that it's a positive environment in which to collaborate.  

post #109 of 5003
Originally Posted by nickchen View Post

I've got the impression that punch hole mod is quite scaleable, maybe there's a "sweet spot" similar to the 3 drillings of the distancers.


Eddie, how much holes did you punch? All of them or just some?


what is the 'punch hole mod' and what does it do/what effect does it have?

post #110 of 5003
post #111 of 5003

Thanks for sharing all your ideas etc with us! I opened up some holes in the back of the driver in my MS1000 and I like the effect it has on the bass.


Subscribed. :-)

post #112 of 5003

When I want to cure my upgraditis, I will definitely recable my sr 225 with silver. It's probably the highest model in the grado line that is easy to open up (because of its plastic).

post #113 of 5003

post #114 of 5003
Thread Starter 


Originally Posted by zero7525 View Post

When I want to cure my upgraditis, I will definitely recable my sr 225 with silver. It's probably the highest model in the grado line that is easy to open up (because of its plastic).

It's a really good model to upgrade.  The SR225 is already "the perfect Grado" in many ways.  It's relatively inexpensive ($200 new).  It has the same wiring and grill as its more expensive aluminum, wood and aluminum/wood counterparts.  It really deserves the top place in the Prestige series, not because it's a better can than the 325 (which is debatable) but because it's the top of the heap among plastic Grados.  It represents the best sound you're going to get before you replace the material in the air chambers.

post #115 of 5003

I tried venting the back of the driver on my already heavily-modded SR80. I didn't hear any appreciable difference in the sound. Didn't get any more of that "kick" that was mentioned. The blutak lining of the inner chamber and driver had more effect. I think all I accomplished punching holes in the back was to increase the chance of getting dirt on the driver in the long run.


If you want to add more kick to your SR60 or SR80.... get flat pads. Pad rolling by far has the greatest effect on the sound of your Grados. The flat pads add a lot of kick to the Grados that the comfies and bowls simply cannot do, and neither can quarter modded HD414 pads.


My next step is to recable these with silver, can't wait to do it!

Edited by Mochan - 8/30/10 at 10:16pm
post #116 of 5003

Does anyone have any tips on the air chamber? I have mounted my drivers in a phillips enclosure, I have been told at headwise a 3x5cm tube on the back of the drivers is the ultimate size.

Anyone have any advice/ commment on this?


bila mentioned that a wider one is best, but don't know how/why?


Also bit of a noob question, does the grill on the back of the sound chamber do anything, or just there for protection/cosmetics?

post #117 of 5003

I dampened the back of the driver and the inside of the cups with Pattex. I think it tightened up the sound, especially the bass but I am not sure. I punched the holes and this dampening with maybe 10min of listening in between. Could well be placebo what I am hearing. ;-)

Thanks again for your mods! With the open holes and possibly this dampening I have much stronger and exciting bass. This further helped to boost the MS1000's performance!


post #118 of 5003
Originally Posted by apatN View Post

Could well be placebo what I am hearing. ;-)




post #119 of 5003

I'm always open to the possibilities of placebo, and also that I'm just getting used to the sound of something while I think the changes I am making are making a difference.


But it does make sense that damping the chamber would make a difference.


Either way, there's certainly no detriment to it.


ETA: For example - we have established that removing the sound chamber walls makes a difference, or at least everyone who has tried it says so from Bilavideo to Nickchen and NoXter.


So we do know the sound chamber walls do make a difference to the sound.


Also, we know that blutac and felt have a different effect on sound in instances when the sound directly hits it, like the back of a driver or cup of an orthodynamic phone.


Putting one and one together we should get two.


It's no guarantee but I certainly think I hear a difference.

Edited by EddieE - 8/31/10 at 5:41am
post #120 of 5003
Thread Starter 

I'm away from this place for five minutes and people start talking "placebo."  Fair enough, but if it's a placebo for me, it must be a placebo for Grado, who vents four of those ten holes on its best headphones - and none of them on the cheap plastics.  


In the meantime, I got a new drill, a bigger one after killing my old drill trying to tear up harder wood.  After nearly taking my foot off (I really need a drill press), I got to finally try out something that isn't merely an imitation of something Grado already sells.  It's a thicker, wider shell.



This little experiment is derived from a single sheet of oak plywood.  It represents the idea of thicker, wider chambers, rather than longer ones.  It also represents the idea of liberating the driver from its plastic prison.




I've not had the time to pretty this up.  Like me, what you see is what you get - but it's not what you see that matters.  I used a fairly banged-up driver I'd previously liberated from a pair of SR80s, a driver I've been waiting to install in something worthwhile.  The finished headphone will have a metal mesh to protect the driver, but plastic is just out of the question.




I'd always wanted to provide the driver with a wider baffle, something capable of adapting to the baffle effect.  I was going to go with a wider aperture in back, to allow a freer, less congested air chamber.  I'd read somewhere that the tube design was disfavored among loudspeakers.  But sometimes, things just take their course.  Instead of achieving the wider, thinner baffle, I ended up with this.




What's the big benefit of a thicker chamber?  It isn't a larger chamber so much as a stabler, more solid body.  There's less of a hollow feel to it.  It's less like a drum than a block.  Can you hear a difference?  Assuming we're not talking about another "placebo," yes.  In fact, my yes is such a yes that I quickly outgrew the comfies I'd started with.  Why?  Because the bass was overwhelming.  It was so substantial that I felt justified replacing them with the jumbos none of the plastic Grados could ever handle.  The result was surprisingly decent.  Big thump met big sparkle and the two had lovely children, kids you wouldn't have to bag in public, even while dangling them from a balcony.




The big block and comfies made a nice combo, but I much preferred the open sound of the jumbos.  Ironically, I thought it actually improved the bass, something I hadn't expected when drinking this particular Kool-Aid.  With the jumbos, the bass isn't laying claim to everything.  It's there when you need it, but gives way to all that wondrous sparkle.








With this wider shell, the forks would either go on the back (as seen here) or be dispensed with in favor of a gimbal drilled directly into the wood.  I'm more inclined toward the latter as it would be less likely to stretch out the headband.  




These could easily be drilled to make the cable attach through the bottom.  I'm inclined to install jacks for detachable cables.  I'm also inclined to cut an appropriately-sized metal mesh to give the back a slightly classier feel to it.




Notwithstanding the blue-eyed devil staring back at us, the dimensions of this wider woody seem appropriate.  Unlike some of the longer designs, there's no immediate comparison with Frankenstein's bolts (which, were actually tubes for giving the big goon a bloody fill-up).  


So, how's the sound?  Too pronounced for any talk of placebos.  I would need a matching channel but from what I'm hearing, the most immediate comparison is to the GS1000.  Whether this mod will create that same distance - with recessed mids - is to be seen (and heard).  This is just my first attempt to try a different approach.  If it's not quite what I was aiming at to begin with, I must say I like what I see thus far - amateurish workmanship notwithstanding.  My next try should be cleaner, and once I've given this pair their audition, I'd like to move on to the original idea I had.

Edited by Bilavideo - 8/31/10 at 6:41pm
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