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How to make an interconnect Step by Step With Pics - Page 2

post #16 of 1010
Thread Starter 
bump
post #17 of 1010

My approach for a Y split

This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888
post #18 of 1010
There are some bargains in data cable now - try some Belden 7812E. 50nF/km capacitance at 1kHz within the pair and each of the four pairs is separated by a white cross-web member running the length of the cable (think long white bendy Lego axle). Also each pair is bonded (each pair is joined) so that capacitance figure is good no matter how much you twist it or bend it. It's not expensive, quite flexible and even flame retardant. As a bonus you can network your house with it and be ready for gigabit
post #19 of 1010
Great guide, brschmid. This will come in handy when I recieve my new soldering iron for Christmas.
post #20 of 1010
Thanks again for this guide! We should all post our results.

Scott
post #21 of 1010
Thread Starter 

Re: My approach for a Y split

Quote:
Originally posted by itza2mer
This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888
that looks good as well, but i like the way i did it. the pics don't do it justice. thanks.

i am gonna update the guide now with a note to check out the comments
post #22 of 1010
From what I have read you should get a good mechainical connection, then solder the connetions in place. Does it take a lot of solder, or is this another case of less is more?

Scott
post #23 of 1010

Re: Re: My approach for a Y split

Quote:
Originally posted by brschmid
that looks good as well, but i like the way i did it. the pics don't do it justice. thanks.

i am gonna update the guide now with a note to check out the comments
No problem. I just posted to show another way to approach a Y split, not to knock your approach in any way. The cables look great, bty.
post #24 of 1010
Thread Starter 

Re: Re: Re: My approach for a Y split

Quote:
Originally posted by itza2mer
No problem. I just posted to show another way to approach a Y split, not to knock your approach in any way. The cables look great, bty.
Your method is good too, i did add to the top of the guide a note that says be sure to read all comments
post #25 of 1010
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by scottder
From what I have read you should get a good mechainical connection, then solder the connetions in place. Does it take a lot of solder, or is this another case of less is more?

Scott
I just use enough to get a good connection. so you do need a good mechanical connection as well.
post #26 of 1010
Quote:
Originally posted by brschmid
I just use enough to get a good connection. so you do need a good mechanical connection as well.
Great, once again thanks for making this little step by step guide.

Scott
post #27 of 1010
brschmid did you have troubles soldering the F-12? I used many radioshack plugs (for practice) and they were very easy to solder but I found on the F-12 the solder did not want to stick. I even held the iron on it for a long time to get it very hot but the solder still did not want to stick.

JV.
post #28 of 1010
Thread Starter 
they soldered just as easy as the switchcrafts, i didnt have any problems at all. I think my iron is 25 or 35 watts, i don't remember, it is the best one Ratshack sells with replaceable tips and heating element.

i seem to remember burning my self too after they were soldered. i didn't have to hold the iron on each point for more than 5 seconds.
post #29 of 1010
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by scottder
Thanks again for this guide! We should all post our results.

Scott
you should.
post #30 of 1010
Anyone tried the homegrown audio yet?

Scott
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