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How to make an interconnect Step by Step With Pics - Page 9

post #121 of 1010
I did a comparison of different types of TechFlex here for thsoe that aer tinterested in the different type s of techflex. My current favorit is Nylon (NY) Multifilament.

http://www5.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67697

Pics on the last page.

-Ed
post #122 of 1010
I work in a Video Post house and have virtually all the raw materials to work with. In fact I made my first cables yesterday... a XLR female to RCA male. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked! My question is does anyone have an opinion on a Belden Cable 8451 shielded? That's what is mostly used... especially in our patch panels.
post #123 of 1010
I've used Belden 8451 shielded in an rca to mini cable, and in a mini to mini cable. In the mini to mini I stripped the Belden wire out of it's jacket because two runs of it wouldn't fit in my CAT5 jacket. Other than the stiffness (with it's jacket), I like the stuff. I like it better than my CAT5 mini to mini and it is very similar to my JMT built solid silver mini to mini.

I have one question.
My older mini to mini cable has switchcraft right angle plugs. I am having oxidation problems with those plugs. They turn black and lose connection often, especially at the player end. I noticed that some of the nickel plating has flaked off. Which seemed to happen after I treated them with some stuff I got with my Cardas headphone cable. I have searched for the gold version of those plugs and haven't been able to find a seller of those.
What can I do to keep these from losing contact?
post #124 of 1010
Yes, I have to say that I was also disappointed with the quality of the Switchcraft mini plugs. I first got a nickel plated one and the surface of the pin looked so uneven and horrible that I ordered a gold plated one. It looks better, although the finish is still very crude and rough. I also got some Switchcraft RCA plugs and they are *much* better - I dont know what they're up to with those mini plugs

I'm pretty sure a seller of the nickel plated ones can get you the gold plated also if you ask. That's what I did.
post #125 of 1010
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane
Yes, I have to say that I was also disappointed with the quality of the Switchcraft mini plugs. I first got a nickel plated one and the surface of the pin looked so uneven and horrible that I ordered a gold plated one. It looks better, although the finish is still very crude and rough. I also got some Switchcraft RCA plugs and they are *much* better - I dont know what they're up to with those mini plugs

I'm pretty sure a seller of the nickel plated ones can get you the gold plated also if you ask. That's what I did.

weird, i have no issues at all with my nickel plated switchcrafts
post #126 of 1010
These are nice for an IC:



Spring action-plugs, connection can be tightened up to improve the tangent plane.
post #127 of 1010
Why with the starquad is it suggested that you use the white as the signal. Does it really matter if you use the blue wires as the signal and the white as the ground? It says see page 6, but I could not find that. Anyone know the reason behind this?
post #128 of 1010
Quote:
While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed)
it's on page 4 now, because we now have more post per page
post #129 of 1010
OK, thanks, I didn't see that. I still don't know if I buy it. I will give it a try and see.
post #130 of 1010
Thread Starter 
I will update that i guess.
post #131 of 1010

headphone replacement cable

Ok, so i've just re-read the tutorial on making the mini-mini IC and i just want to make sure of something before i go and attempt to make this.

In the tutorial it says that the ground should be soldered on both plugs. Ok, but what about making a replacement cable for phones? Specifically, I want to make a couple of replacement cables for my HP890's. [For those who are unfamiliar with them, they have a 2.5mm jack in the left ear for the cable to connect to] After having read through a couple of other threads where it's been mentioned that the ground shouldn't be connected on the source; IIFC; end of things, does this apply here? Or should I go ahead and connect the ground on both ends like an IC?

Thanx in advance,

Decay
post #132 of 1010
you always connect ground... you are talking about connecting the shield to ground. if you are using something other then the shield for ground, ie* a wire, then you would connect the shield to ground on the source side.

if shield = ground, then guess what you need a ground, so connect the shield on both sides.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ElChupahueso
Ok, so i've just re-read the tutorial on making the mini-mini IC and i just want to make sure of something before i go and attempt to make this.

In the tutorial it says that the ground should be soldered on both plugs. Ok, but what about making a replacement cable for phones? Specifically, I want to make a couple of replacement cables for my HP890's. [For those who are unfamiliar with them, they have a 2.5mm jack in the left ear for the cable to connect to] After having read through a couple of other threads where it's been mentioned that the ground shouldn't be connected on the source; IIFC; end of things, does this apply here? Or should I go ahead and connect the ground on both ends like an IC?

Thanx in advance,

Decay
post #133 of 1010
Right on. Ok, now with that bit of knowledge under my belt, i'm off to order some cable. Pics to hopefully follow.

Decay
post #134 of 1010
Quote:
Originally Posted by itza2mer
This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888
mmm . . . link is now broken. Mind fixing it so I can see what your talking about? Better looking cables is always nice
post #135 of 1010
Thread Starter 
when did this get made into a sticky?
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