Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › EHHA Rev A - Interest Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

EHHA Rev A - Interest Thread - Page 99

post #1471 of 1657

I got the two transformers together with all the rest as a kit from Jeff Rossel (Glassjaraudio).

 

 

I can't wait to see pictures of your finished amp, since your builds where always really cool!


Edited by Sathimas - 1/15/13 at 4:59am
post #1472 of 1657

Thanks Matthias,

 

But this will take some time...

Will you finish your EHHA the same way as your SOHA?

post #1473 of 1657

The EHHA will look like this:

 

 

 

 

I'll be using mdpc-x sleeve for all the cables inside to give it some

technical-alien-look :-D

post #1474 of 1657

That is looking very cool!!

 

And suits my own taste perfectly... I also love to combine different materials

and warm and cold (plexi and wood).

 

Instead of becoming a doctor you should have studied Design ... wink.gif

post #1475 of 1657

Wait until you see my patients after I'm finished with them dt880smile.png

 

 

But I have another question: 

 

How do you guys get your boards that clean and shiny?

 

 

 

 

This is what one of my boards looked like after cleaning it with 99.5% Isopropanol.

I mean most of the stains from the flux are gone, but it still looks dirty.

(Not to speak of the ugly traces on the top side ...)

 

Do I need to use simply more of that stuff?

Or mix it with something else?

 

Since one will see a lot of the boards in my EHHA, they have to be really clean this time!


Edited by Sathimas - 1/20/13 at 4:36am
post #1476 of 1657

That's the right solvent - nice high purity.  Use more of it, and go back 3-4 times if you need to.  Use an old tooth brush and/or cheap acid brush to help loosen things up mechanically.  Blot the wet surface with paper towels and discard.  For the final rinses you'll want to use clean solvent. You can even dip the board into a shallow container and slosh it around, but I always worry about getting the trimpots too wet, so be careful with that. I've never used the spray cleaners due to their cost, but I imagine they are also pretty effective.  Give plenty of time to air dry before powering up.

 

In short, do what you've been doing, but repeat a few times.  No doubt it's a nuisance.

 

BK

post #1477 of 1657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sathimas View Post

Wait until you see my patients after I'm finished with them dt880smile.png

 

 

But I have another question: 

 

How do you guys get your boards that clean and shiny?

 

 

 

 

This is what one of my boards looked like after cleaning it with 99.5% Isopropanol.

I mean most of the stains from the flux are gone, but it still looks dirty.

(Not to speak of the ugly traces on the top side ...)

 

Do I need to use simply more of that stuff?

Or mix it with something else?

 

Since one will see a lot of the boards in my EHHA, they have to be really clean this time!

It takes a half-dozen rinses sometimes - depends on the number of parts and the amount of flux residue.  You need to pick up the dissolved flux with paper towels each time, though, while the alcohol is still wet.  Or else the flux goes nowhere but dries back down on the board.wink.gif

 

BK_856er has some good points, too - use an old toothbrush to break up the really bad flux deposits.


Edited by tomb - 1/20/13 at 6:48pm
post #1478 of 1657

ok - I've been on the right way then :-)

 

I did already use a toothbrusch.

 

I was just wondering if the Isopropanol was really the best solution.

So I'll just reapeat the procedure and try to use some paper towels.

post #1479 of 1657

Another question came to my mind while I was planning the final inner layout of my ehha.

 

Do I need an e12? (Or two, to be exact)

 

I see some users use one, but many do not.

One time I read it's a must, the next time people say it's just to be sure...

post #1480 of 1657
Quote:

I see some users use one, but many do not.

One time I read it's a must, the next time people say it's just to be sure...

This is like buying health or life insurance... people recommend it but you can live without.

 

I have yet to encounter a malfunctioning amplifier that takes out my headphones... tubes don't

have the problem anyway and even my M3 did perfectly without an e12. The noise generated

when you switch it off is so tiny and unharming in comparison to the levels some people use

for daily listening ... blink.gif My breadboard EHHA RevA also doesn't have one.

post #1481 of 1657

If I recall correctly, the EHHA was said to have some relatively high dc offset 

after switching on, which might be dangerous - but if there's nothing audible ...

 

I'd also prefer not to use an e12, keeps wiring simpler and saves space

inside my already kind of small case.

 

By the way - my boards are almost perfectly clean now atsmile.gif

post #1482 of 1657

Hi DIY-ers,

I have a question for the EHHA Rev A case. After reading the whole thread, I decided to take on this project in a near future to couple with my ODAC and Paradox. I will probably go with the kit from GJA (does the kit include the PCB or power adapter? Or do I have to order them separately?).

 

I know there is no definite case for the EHHA and I've seen many amazing ones in this thread. Since I have no access to a milling machine, I guess my option is to buy a machined case from somewhere else. Do you have any suggestion?

 

Thanks,
 

post #1483 of 1657
Quote:
I will probably go with the kit from GJA (does the kit include the PCB or power adapter? Or do I have to order them separately?).

 

Maybe you should read a bit more about the EHHA rev. A first ;-)

 

The Rev.A PCB includes power supplys for each channel separetely.

Jeff also supplies you with the torroids you need, so you just need to add

an power inlet (110/220 - where do you live by the way?).

 

As for cases - just use the search a bit, there are many different suppliers.

A can highly recommend hifi2000 from italy, but shipping to the US is expensive.

post #1484 of 1657

Thanks Sathimas. I live in the US so I guess 110V for me. Is there any supplier for cases in the US that you know of?
 

post #1485 of 1657

It seems as though Par Metal is back up and running after the fire they experienced.

http://www.par-metal.com/

 

The 20 Series cases are what most everyone here has used in their builds. I've done two myself, using a 12x12x3 size. You should use

1/4" tall circuit board standoffs for this case size.


Edited by funch - 3/26/13 at 11:34am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › EHHA Rev A - Interest Thread