DT 770 Rewire Help

Unless you are confident in your skills to do this or any task for that matter I would generally advise practicing on something you dont mind destroying or damaging. A great first project is to build a cable for a KOSS KSC-75 for example. They can be had quite inexpensively and are require a few fewer steps... move up to the 770 when you are ready.

If you are comfy and ready to go on the 770, I would look around for how other people have recabled them for dual entry. After that the rest is easy.

I feel like I should note: I personally prefer single entry (its totally possible to do an end-to-end rewire with a single entry) because the strain releif on the right hand side seldom comes out right.

Agree with nikongod. If you dont want dual entry specifically, single entry will be much easier to do. Also if you are not thinking about taking off the plastic colored shield, you'd better get 2893. 2534 is too heavy with all that shields.

I am not sure about the heatshrink size but you can think about not shielding it, it will be more flexible..

2893

Dual Entry 2534

single entry FTW(the 2 cables for the right driver are *not* soldered to the left driver):

I'd advise using Cardas Eutectic solder because its melting point is VERY low, get a 30W iron and never keep it in contact for more than one second at a time! don't overheat the metal holders of the drivers otherwise you risk breaking the microscopic wires coming off the driver.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hasanyuceer 

Agree with nikongod. If you dont want dual entry specifically, single entry will be much easier to do. Also if you are not thinking about taking off the plastic colored shield, you'd better get 2893. 2534 is too heavy with all that shields.

 

I am not sure about the heatshrink size but you can think about not shielding it, it will be more flexible..

 

2893

 

Dual Entry 2534

I'm assuming you cut away the outer insulation layer off of the Mogami in order to fit it through the stock strain relief? I have to make my own since there was no way in hell the Mogami would slide through the tiny hole.
 

Yes, I cut the outer insulation. I thought about building a new strain relief, but then I decided to go on this way. It looks very clean and neat I think..
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberspyder 

I'm assuming you cut away the outer insulation layer off of the Mogami in order to fit it through the stock strain relief? I have to make my own since there was no way in hell the Mogami would slide through the tiny hole.
 

Dual entry is the way to go, use rubber grommet/washers to tidy-up the hole's, all parts used from here; http://www.audiophonics.fr/

dean0: This is looking very very good.. Congrats.

I usually use one blue wire for each channel and both white wires for ground. 

I have been known to use one white wire for each channel and both blue wires for ground too though.

I like to ground the shield, so that it actually shields, but try not to use it for signal ground.

It doesnt make a difference if you used blue or white ones.. Just dont use the shield cable as ground.

Make the shield grounded, but dont use it as ground wires for drivers..

Decide what color you will use for + poles, then the other color will be ground for drivers..