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Odd issue with some DT880 '05s

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Figured I'd ask around here to see if anyone has any ideas before I consider shipping the headphones off to be repaired.

 

Anyways, a couple weeks back the left channel started going in and out (Although, if I held it just right it'd sound normal), so I decided to crack'em open to see if I could figure out what the issue was. Oddly enough, the left driver refused to pop out; it'd loosen, but not pop out entirely. Wondering what could be preventing the driver from popping out, I pried it open (gently) and this is what I saw:

 

Head2.jpg

 

It's not the best picture, but it should still help illustrate the problem. From the picture you can see the discoloration of the white padding around the white wire and the white wire tugging on the padding. What you can't see, however, is that where the white wire bends up there's a bit of wire insulation that appears to have fused with the padding. How this could've happened, I have no idea.

 

Currently thinking about cutting the padding so that I can gently pop out the driver, but as I lack any real experience with this, I'm all open to suggestions. I'm more than willing to learn a bit and pick up the necessary tools if it means I don't have to ship'em back.

post #2 of 4

DO NOT cut the padding!! unless you can verify that the wires somehow got behind it (they should not be there, highly unlikely) its a waste of time.

 

The part you are holding up should come out far enough to work on without too much effort. There is some expereince necessary in the art of taking headphones apart without destroying the wires holding everything together, but ya know... The overall theme is that its a subtle art of knowing when to apply more force and when to have a gentle touch. Wiggle the driver around and see if you can see any wires that are caught somewhere. If there are wiggle them out a bit. The drivers have only enough slack in the stock wires to barely come out, so you have to rotate them JUST right to flip the driver over. I actually find it easier to desolder everything with it propped half open as shown and then work in the open... If you are not replacing the cable from end to end, putting them back together is a pain. Consider yourself warned.

 

In any case, you should have adequate clearance to get your ohm-meter probes in there and check whether the problem is in the cable or driver. Its probably a problem in the cable. If you think its the driver, you are testing wrong. If you are sure you are testing correctly,  Im sorry life sucks and things do break (are you really sure its the driver? Its almost never the driver), but there are a bunch of people looking for 1 beyer driver in the FS forum.

 

Incidentally, as a matter of totally ignored terminology, the piece you are holding up (the ~3.5" circular bit) is not the driver, but a board that the driver mounts to. the driver is about 1.75"diameter and glued to the middle of that.

post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 

Regarding the padding: Then what would've caused the discoloration, the tugging of the white wire, and the apparent melting/fusing of the wire insulation? I have no idea *how* this would've happened, I'm just reporting what I see.

 

And the driver board *should* come out easily, like the right side, but it *doesn't*. The shot you see is as far as I can open it. Unless there's someway to remove the entire pad in the back, I don't think the left side will be coming out with the wires attached.

 

Will pick up an ohm-meter in a bit, poke around with it, and post what I see there.

 

Regarding the terminology: Makes sense, heh.

post #4 of 4

there are little brass (perhaps copper?) clips holding all the wires in place. There is a sort of folded strip of brass on the thin cable from the left to right cups, and a big fat crimped grommet one on the main cable. corroding brass&copper are known for leaving stains on material near it. I would not be surprised by this.

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