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Using a Pyramid PSU with a V-DAC: Polarity Concerns - Page 3

post #31 of 35

Thanks Mister X. Unfortunately the data sheet for the cables I got did not have such a detailed diagram. So I gave Digikey a call and the tech there walked me through the whole process and I figured it out.


So my V-DAC and the PSU are just sitting there now. I can't even test them out until my amp arrives. lol

post #32 of 35
Thread Starter 

I determined which raw end of the cable met up with/was connected to the tip or barrel using a multimeter. I just set the MM to sound off-- *BEEP*-- when there was connectivity. This can also be done measuring resistance. (There will be no read out change until connectivity is made/the very small resistance of one of the wires is measured.)

Edited by sampson_smith - 8/28/10 at 9:51am
post #33 of 35

sorry to resurrect an old thread, but...


i like keeping related info on related threads ;)


so i recently acquired a pyramid psu and appropriate cable from parts express for my v-dac ii.  and forgive me for such a novice inquiry, but what's the best way to connect the two wires to the + & - posts of the pyramid?  banana jacks?  


or can i just connect the wires?  if i do, what's the way to do so?  simply tighten the posts' caps onto the bare wires?  or do i need to do something special to the wires?


any help would be greatly appreciated!



post #34 of 35


post #35 of 35

I'm not familiar with the Pyramid PSU or the V-DAC II, but there is a general procedure for connecting to terminal posts.


You have to make sure that bare copper is showing on the wires to be connected, this means stripping PVC or other insulation back a half-inch or so, or if the wire is magnet wire with a thin varnish-style insulation, scrape this away with a scalpel blade or remove it with sand- or emery paper by grasping the wire tightly in a fold of abrasive paper and pulling it out. You need to do this several times until you can see the bright copper colour. If the insulation is PVC or similar, make sure you remove enough so that you don't trap it in the post when you screw up the cap, but don't remove so much that there is a lot of exposed copper when the cap is done up as this can lead to shorting if the wire is free to move much.


Some posts have a transverse hole in them which is exposed when you screw off the cap. You can just poke the wire through and screw up the cap.


If the posts don't have a hole, shape the wire into a tight semicircle to fit the post, hook it round and screw up the cap. Make sure that the wire semicircle winds clockwise from wire to open end when you hook it on, so that the motion of the screw cap tends to cause it to tighten up as you tighten the cap, otherwise it will tend to open up and pop out of the mating surfaces of cap and post.


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