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Dark Voice 339 - Page 88

post #1306 of 2364

Still having some trouble with the humming adapter.  I can get it to stop when I'm holding it, but it hums a bit when I put it back together.  If I can get it a working pair, it should sound great, though.  If I read Yuking's email correctly, it looks like they're willing to send me another set if I pay for shipping.  That sounds fair to me--I just hope they test them before sending them out.


Edited by BackwardPawn - 1/15/13 at 1:08pm
post #1307 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

Which of those two that don't need adapters are best with bright phones like Beyers?  I leaning toward trying the 6SJ7GT based on your recommendation, just want to make sure its not a bright tube.  Also, how do they compare to the EF80s?

No doubt it's 6sj7gt, but I got the best of the 6sj7 series produced by Tung-Sol and also very rare, I don't know how the others compare to the TS6sj7GT but the mesh-shield Tung-Sol sound lovely, they have gentle upper ranges, beautiful mid-range with gorgeous reproduction of female vocals, like I said my favorite.

I didn't spend to much time listening to the ef80 but I did with ef800tfk & RCA 6AS7G, very good sounding combination, good dynamics, open mid-range, properly saturated highs and not bright too!


Edited by WALL-E - 1/15/13 at 2:46pm
post #1308 of 2364

Thanks.  I'll probably pick up a pair of those eventually, though I don't know if it'll be the Tung-Sol, though.

 

For now, I was thinking I'd use the RCA 6AS7Gs and the EF80s once I get working adapters for music and then use the Russian power tubes with the stock input tubes for games and movies so I'm not wasting the better tubes on non-music.

 

I assume I'll expand my collection over time, but I can't really afford everything at once.  On the one hand, I wish I had good input tubes to use, but at least now I know I received a bad pair of adapters while I'm still under warranty.

post #1309 of 2364

Try getting the 6JS7GT by Tung-Sol or Philips or Sylvania. Or the 6JS7WGT by TS or RCA.

If you can't find those, the RCA RED 5693 is always a nice backup
 

post #1310 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by WALL-E View Post

No doubt it's 6sj7gt, but I got the best of the 6sj7 series produced by Tung-Sol and also very rare, I don't know how the others compare to the TS6sj7GT but the mesh-shield Tung-Sol sound lovely, they have gentle upper ranges, beautiful mid-range with gorgeous reproduction of female vocals, like I said my favorite.


I didn't spend to much time listening to the ef80 but I did with ef800tfk & RCA 6AS7G, very good sounding combination, good dynamics, open mid-range, properly saturated highs and not bright too!
+1 i agree the tung sols gt mesh plates are heaven..i have a pair also in my 337 but if anyone looks for a bit warmer sound try the rca 5693 reds..i tried them with my tung sols 5998 and they sounded really good..not mellow at all..but also not to bright..ofcourse the gt mesh plates are in a total different league in the areas u mentioned here.. biggrin.gif
post #1311 of 2364

I will try to get something that plugs straight in then.  I have a question first though.  I have crackling on the right side intermittently.  Even when the volume pot is at zero, it'll be quiet for a couple hours, then I'll get crackling that can last from 30 seconds to a couple minutes.  Its usually drowned some by the music, but I can still hear it when it happens .  Then it goes away and I won't hear it again for a couple hours--its hard to diagnose something when it happens so randomly and seldom, but its still there.  

 

I've tried three different power tubes and I've switched the sides of the input tubes, but nether seem to help.  Could that side be picking up interference from something (its closer to my monitor and laptop on that side), or is there something wrong with the amp?

 

I'm hoping it may be my wifi being picked up by those metal input tubes, but maybe that's wishful thinking?


Edited by BackwardPawn - 1/16/13 at 9:41am
post #1312 of 2364

Its not the wifi :(  I've tried switching the sides that the tubes are on and then also turned the amp 90 degrees so the transformers would shielded it a bit.  I'll just wait for Yuking to get back to me with the next step as the crackling is getting worse (and is only on the right no matter where the tubes are put).  I'll put a hold to my tube buying until everything's in working order, though.

 

Despite my latest string of messages, I'm willing to be patient and wait for instructions (hopefully from Yuking, but also from anyone else that might have an idea).

post #1313 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

Its not the wifi :(  I've tried switching the sides that the tubes are on and then also turned the amp 90 degrees so the transformers would shielded it a bit.  I'll just wait for Yuking to get back to me with the next step as the crackling is getting worse (and is only on the right no matter where the tubes are put).  I'll put a hold to my tube buying until everything's in working order, though.

 

Despite my latest string of messages, I'm willing to be patient and wait for instructions (hopefully from Yuking, but also from anyone else that might have an idea).

Originally Posted by telecaster:
- I wonder what is wrong in my amp, I still have sometimes a crackling noise when no music is playing.
- Since then I have that crackling noise wich is not always there, but it happens only when no music is playing and mostly when the amp is not warm.
- I have this crackling only on left channel. Yuking sent me all the wirewound resistors to replace them so I guess while I wait for the new parts for the mod, I will       change and isolate where does this crackling noise comes from...
- I have isolate the cracklin noise problem. I switched the output coupling resistors and that was the cultprit.

 

 

So it looks similar to your case isn't it? He replaced the big wirewound resistor, sent by Yuking.
In my opinion the stock 470ohm aluminum-housed resistor are bad they tend to drift in value with temperature, and time. I will choose wirewound  Mills MRC50  non inductive and 1% tolerance, instead the stock resistor.

post #1314 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by WALL-E View Post

Originally Posted by telecaster:
- I wonder what is wrong in my amp, I still have sometimes a crackling noise when no music is playing.
- Since then I have that crackling noise wich is not always there, but it happens only when no music is playing and mostly when the amp is not warm.
- I have this crackling only on left channel. Yuking sent me all the wirewound resistors to replace them so I guess while I wait for the new parts for the mod, I will       change and isolate where does this crackling noise comes from...
- I have isolate the cracklin noise problem. I switched the output coupling resistors and that was the cultprit.

 

 

So it looks similar to your case isn't it? He replaced the big wirewound resistor, sent by Yuking.
In my opinion the stock 470ohm aluminum-housed resistor are bad they tend to drift in value with temperature, and time. I will choose wirewound  Mills MRC50  non inductive and 1% tolerance, instead the stock resistor.

That does sound similar.  Thanks for the information.  I'll send Yuking an email asking if this could possibly be the culprit.  Is this an easy fix implement?

post #1315 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

That does sound similar.  Thanks for the information.  I'll send Yuking an email asking if this could possibly be the culprit.  Is this an easy fix implement?

 

You can handle it with no problem, very easy to fixsmile.gif
 

post #1316 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by WALL-E View Post

 

You can handle it with no problem, very easy to fixsmile.gif
 

 

Just curious, is this piece soldered.  Looking at what it is, I don't think I'll have a problem replacing the part, but I don't have much of workbench here.  If it needs to be soldered in place I'll have to set it up with my neighbor to use his workshop.

 

I want to setup a workbench where I can put some kits and things together, but, alas, don't think I'll have the space until I move.  My neighbors great, though.  Built himself an awesome workshop, but he's busy so I'll need to let him know in advance if I need to use it.

 

EDIT:  Nevermind.  I'll just take it over to his place anyway, a second pair of hands never hurts.


Edited by BackwardPawn - 1/16/13 at 6:07pm
post #1317 of 2364
Quote:
Originally Posted by WALL-E View Post

Originally Posted by telecaster:
- I wonder what is wrong in my amp, I still have sometimes a crackling noise when no music is playing.
- Since then I have that crackling noise wich is not always there, but it happens only when no music is playing and mostly when the amp is not warm.
- I have this crackling only on left channel. Yuking sent me all the wirewound resistors to replace them so I guess while I wait for the new parts for the mod, I will       change and isolate where does this crackling noise comes from...
- I have isolate the cracklin noise problem. I switched the output coupling resistors and that was the cultprit.

 

 

So it looks similar to your case isn't it? He replaced the big wirewound resistor, sent by Yuking.
In my opinion the stock 470ohm aluminum-housed resistor are bad they tend to drift in value with temperature, and time. I will choose wirewound  Mills MRC50  non inductive and 1% tolerance, instead the stock resistor.

Forgive my ignorance on the technical side, but when I look up Mills MRC50, I find they have about a dozen different types of MRC50 and they aren't rated in ohms.  Which of the them would match the original 470ohm resistance?  I'm thinking I'll probably use what Yuking sends for now since the left channel works and I don't want to mess with my warranty (unless he's okay with upgrading components), but I was still a little confused by Mills' rating system, and wouldn't mind upgrading components at some point down the road.

 

Also, I really appreciate you finding this, as it does sound like my issue, except my amp continues to do it after its warmed up.  I was afraid I'd have to spend some money sending it back, but now I'm hopeful that a $5 resister might fix it.

post #1318 of 2364

Wall-E,

 

The closest MRC50 is 500R.  Would this work, but require more volume?  If you can provide a link to what you think I need, I'd appreciate it.  As much as I appreciate, the help, though, I think I should wait for Yuking to get back to me.

post #1319 of 2364

Indeed I checked the mills resistors 50 watt series catalog and they don't have single value 470 ohm? I am not sure, but the Dale/Vishay (another good  brand) may have this value, or u can connected in parallel or in series to obtain the similar value like I did in my amp, 910 and 1000 in parallel gives about 476 ohm, but this would require some soldering...
I think for now u should wait for Yuking and use what he sends as long as it is under warranty.
 

post #1320 of 2364

Gonna be showcasing and selling my La Figaro 339 at the Charlotte, NC meet =/

 

It was fun to be part of the fan club while it lasted!

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