Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Dark Voice 339
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Dark Voice 339 - Page 86

post #1276 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJS242 View Post

 

If you wanted it to look really nice, I would probably have the paint sand blasted off (blocking off the square decals on top) and then uniformly repainted.  You might be able to spray paint it, but it might look obvious.  I guess it depends on what you're going for.

 

Ya, this is what I was thinking. I'm trying to gauge the cost of have it professionally repainted. I think I could probably sand it down and spray paint it though and it should come out fine if I take my time. A response in another thread suggested that I would have the freedom to change the color. Not sure I'd want to do that, but perhaps a very dark navy blue would look cool with the gold emblems on the blocks.

 

Either way, thanks for the input. Waiting to hear back about replacement blocks but at least repainting them is an option. Shouldn't be too hard if they are removable.

post #1277 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirbel View Post

 

Ya, this is what I was thinking. I'm trying to gauge the cost of have it professionally repainted. I think I could probably sand it down and spray paint it though and it should come out fine if I take my time. A response in another thread suggested that I would have the freedom to change the color. Not sure I'd want to do that, but perhaps a very dark navy blue would look cool with the gold emblems on the blocks.

 

Either way, thanks for the input. Waiting to hear back about replacement blocks but at least repainting them is an option. Shouldn't be too hard if they are removable.

If they are removable, I'd go that route.  I didn't look to see if it was just the housing or the whole block that was attched witht the screws--hoepfully just the housing, but I'm afraid its the block.  If you do repaint it, I'd keep it the same color or you'll have to do all three of them (unless there was damage to the others as well).

 

Also check and see if it was insured on the shipping.  Maybe FedEx will pay for the professional repaint.

post #1278 of 2575

My Telefunken EF80s just got here--really want to try them out.  My Winged C's haven't arrived yet, though, and thats where the bad tube is.  I'm thinking I'll just order something from Tube Center and use whichever I like least as a backup tube.

 

I do want to thank StalkerAssasin for showing me the RCA auctions on Ebay.  They're a little more than I wanted to spend, which is why I"m thinking Tube Center, but at least I know what to look for now if I really want to try RCA.

post #1279 of 2575

Do the EF80s need to be used with 6AS7Gs or can the be used with stock power tubes?  I'm getting a hum through my headphones when I use them with the stock power tubes.  Or do I need to leave them a while to burn in?  Or is it possible they're too cold as I left them for about for about 10 min and they were only slightly warm to the touch after turning the unit off?

 

The humming got worse when I touched the volume control and when I turned the volume up.

 

EDIT:  Switched sides and the hum followed the tube.  Could be a bad tube.  They also came in boxes for 5814As, but the tubes are clearly marked Telefunken EF80 so I don't think that's the problem.  What do you do when you receive a bad NOS tube off Ebay (assuming that's what this is) write it off or ask the seller for a prorated refund?

 

EDIT2:  3 of the four tubes produce a hum.  One hums just from running.  The others two I've tried hum when I turn the volume up.  Should I not run EF80s with stock power tubes or was I taken on the EF80s?


Edited by BackwardPawn - 1/9/13 at 2:15pm
post #1280 of 2575

No criticism but try reading up on "how tubes work" ;)

 

Tubes need at least 30 minutes to get to the ideal state, some even say an hour. Avoid turning the amp on and off too quickly and for safety always have a headphone plugged in (even if it should be ok with OTL amps) when running. Do not have a headphone plugged in when turning it on/off

 

Give the EF80 tubes about 10 hours of time (at least), the hum should disappear slowly, unless you really have a bad pair.

 

You can use EF80 with any output tube, just depends on your preference in sound.

 

Also do not remove warm tubes, let them cool off first.

post #1281 of 2575

I've tried reading up some.  Do you have any good sources because I get conflicting information?  And most of the info I find is for guitars.

 

One page I read said always leave headphones plugged in.  One page said its okay to unplug and switch so long as the volume pot is zero.  I've compromised by turning it on with the tubes unplugged, letting it warm up (usually 20 min) then plugging the headphones in and turning the volume up.  I always zero the volume pots and unplug before/after turning on because I don't like the popping noise.

 

I'll start plugging the headphones in once its on, though.

 

And I'm not taking any offense.  You could tell me I'm an idiot for using tubes with no clue what I'm doing and I'd be in complete agreement :)  (so long as you tell me where to look for info).

 

I currently have the the tubes in, the headphones plugged in, and the volume at 0.  There's a slight hum in the headphones that gets bad if I turn the volume up.  Am I safe leaving it like this for a while until the hum goes away?


Edited by BackwardPawn - 1/9/13 at 2:38pm
post #1282 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

I've tried reading up some.  Do you have any good sources because I get conflicting information?  And most of the info I find is for guitars.

 

One page I read said always leave headphones plugged in.  One page said its okay to unplug and switch so long as the volume pot is zero.  I've compromised by turning it on with the tubes unplugged, letting it warm up (usually 20 min) then plugging the headphones in and turning the volume up.  I always zero the volume pots and unplug before/after turning on because I don't like the popping noise.

 

I'll start plugging the headphones in once its on, though.

 

And I'm not taking any offense.  You could tell me I'm an idiot for using tubes with no clue what I'm doing and I'd be in complete agreement :)  (so long as you tell me where to look for info).

 

I currently have the the tubes in, the headphones plugged in, and the volume at 0.  There's a slight hum in the headphones that gets bad if I turn the volume up.  Am I safe leaving it like this for a while until the hum goes away?

 

I've read conflicting information also and here is what I do...

 

I always let the amp warm up before listening or plugging in my head phones (generally 15-30 minutes). 

 

Turn on --> Warm Up --> Plug headphones in --> Turn Volume up

 

When done listening

 

Turn Volume to 0 --> Unplug headphones --> Turn amp off

 

Some other weird things I do (myth or not)... I never run the amp for more than 8 hours.  I never turn it on and then off after a short time period (meaning I let it warm up completely before turning it off).  If I swap tubes I make sure the amp is completely cool, and I never turn it on without tubes.  If your tubes are noisy or hum give them some time to settle down.

post #1283 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirbel View Post

 

Ya, this is what I was thinking. I'm trying to gauge the cost of have it professionally repainted. I think I could probably sand it down and spray paint it though and it should come out fine if I take my time. A response in another thread suggested that I would have the freedom to change the color. Not sure I'd want to do that, but perhaps a very dark navy blue would look cool with the gold emblems on the blocks.

 

Either way, thanks for the input. Waiting to hear back about replacement blocks but at least repainting them is an option. Shouldn't be too hard if they are removable.

 

Just a note about having your covers painted, I would do a quick check to make sure you can easily remove them all.  Some things like the aluminum 339 plate are not easily removable because the point to point wiring is in the way (meaning you'd have to break some of the wiring in order to get to some of the screws)

post #1284 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJS242 View Post

 

I've read conflicting information also and here is what I do...

 

I always let the amp warm up before listening or plugging in my head phones (generally 15-30 minutes). 

 

Turn on --> Warm Up --> Plug headphones in --> Turn Volume up

 

When done listening

 

Turn Volume to 0 --> Unplug headphones --> Turn amp off

 

Some other weird things I do (myth or not)... I never run the amp for more than 8 hours.  I never turn it on and then off after a short time period (meaning I let it warm up completely before turning it off).  If I swap tubes I make sure the amp is completely cool, and I never turn it on without tubes.  If your tubes are noisy or hum give them some time to settle down.

Thanks.  That's pretty much the procedure I'd settled on for turning on and off so I'll keep doing it.

 

I was just putting in an order now from Tube Center for a set of 6AS7Gs.  I've still got the crackle in my stock tube and I think that should have settled down by now if it was going to.  Since I only got half the order, I think I'm just going to put the new EF80s back in the box until I get either the Tube Center tubes or the Soviet Tubes and just burn everything in at once.  No sense letting the EF80s settle just to get another set that needs to do the same.  This way I'll have four of each type in case something happens to one of the sets.

post #1285 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

If they are removable, I'd go that route.  I didn't look to see if it was just the housing or the whole block that was attched witht the screws--hoepfully just the housing, but I'm afraid its the block.  If you do repaint it, I'd keep it the same color or you'll have to do all three of them (unless there was damage to the others as well).

 

Also check and see if it was insured on the shipping.  Maybe FedEx will pay for the professional repaint.

 

Unfortunately, there is minor chipping on all three (although the one I showed is the worst).

 

Manufacturer warranty has already offered to cover costs of painting, but I'm still trying to work out how much they will cover (cost difference in doing it myself versus professional obviously).

post #1286 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJS242 View Post

 

I've read conflicting information also and here is what I do...

 

 

OTL amps: no headphone when turning on/off

Transformer coupled amps: Headphone in

post #1287 of 2575
Quote:

Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

 

I've compromised by turning it on with the tubes unplugged, letting it warm up (usually 20 min) then plugging the headphones in and turning the volume up.  I always zero the volume pots and unplug before/after turning on because I don't like the popping noise.

 

 Am I safe leaving it like this for a while until the hum goes away?

 

I hope that's a typo. Never power up the amp without tubes

Yes you're safe, just do not leave tube amps unattended

post #1288 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrainferno View Post

 

I hope that's a typo. Never power up the amp without tubes

Yes you're safe, just do not leave tube amps unattended

 

Yes.  That was a typo.  I turn it on and warm it up with the headphones unplugged and the volume zeroed out.  Tubes stay in at all times.

post #1289 of 2575

Any news on Yuking?

post #1290 of 2575
Quote:
Originally Posted by sluker View Post

Any news on Yuking?

I haven't heard from Keph in a while now but I did get an e-mail from Yuking last week with info on a new amp he just finished. So maybe things are looking up, I didn't dare ask him by mail.

Good to see you back on here Sluker!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Dark Voice 339