Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Dark Voice 339
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Dark Voice 339 - Page 75

post #1111 of 2403

If you buy from a seller with a good reputation it should be safe, also make sure you can return the tubes.

But it would be safer to buy the tubes from a real shop ;p

 

or post the link here from ebay ;-)

post #1112 of 2403

After staring at the picture for about an hour and looking a couple times at the 332s, I bit the bullet and purchased the 339 :)  The deciding factor was the post Yuking made about the 332 working with 600ohm cans, but being better with 250ohm cans.  My parents are furious, they don't get why I need a $650 amp for $350 headphones, but I've think I've actually been pretty conservative.  

 

I built this system up over the past two years starting with the source (X-Fi Ti HD) that got added to my gaming PC.  Then I bought a pair of ATH-AD700 which I used for a while, but could never really get used to them.  I watched Amazons price fluctuations on the DT880/600 for months and picked them up at the low point of $260.  They've really been great in terms of comfort as I have a rare muscle conditions in which my muscles can't relax (like tetanus, but caused by my immune system)--and I love the sound.  (The doctors finally figured out what it is and it'll take some months to get completely under control, but I'm already doing better).

 

The last missing piece was my amp, which I'll admit I went over budget on (I've been using an old Onkyo A/V receiver).  I initially wanted the Crack at first and was determined to build it myself.  When I realized I no longer had the dexterity or the visual acuity to do it anymore they had let their tech go.  I really didn't want to go entry level, so I kind of disregarded the 336, which I'm sure is a good amp.  The 332 would probably have worked out, but something about the 339, just made me really want to get it.

 

This should be my last audio purchase for a while, unless I really need to get something to replace the onboard sound on my laptop (but I use my PMP around the house the laptop is more of a gaming emulator). I've also decided no more PC upgrades until I can sit at my desk longer when my condition is under control (if I ever get to that point). I've come to the conclusion the high/med settings are just as fun as ultra settings, and much cheaper to maintain.  I may go SLI if I can get another GTX 570 for cheap, but I don't see a reason to upgrade every year anymore like I used to (if I could get back all the money I gave to nVidia over the years...).  Lately I listen to music at the end of the day and rest my eyes for work rather than play games.

 

My home rig is now going to be X-Fi Ti HD --> La Figaro 339 --> DT880/600.  I understand what people mean about the DT880s being sterile when used straight out of an amp, but having a sound card with an equilizer and enhancement functions, I find them to be engaging.

 

I know it was more than I wanted to spend, but I'm really looking forward to it.


Edited by BackwardPawn - 10/21/12 at 10:57am
post #1113 of 2403

Congratulations. You won't regret it. Let us know when you get it! And don't forget the pictures ;)
 

post #1114 of 2403

Congrats BackwardPawn. Welcome to the joy of Tubes and as they say, Keep on Rollin'  biggrin.gif

post #1115 of 2403

I'll definitely take pictures--I think the amp looks beautiful.

 

Help me out a bit with the tube rolling, if you could please.  Is the EF80 and the 5693 a good combo (I assume I need two of each).

 

Also, is the 5998 and 5998A interchangeable, and would the 5963 replace the EF80?  I'm trying to figure out my best bet.  At first it seems like only a few dollars difference between tubes, but then you realize you have to multiply that x 2.

 

The 5693 and the 6AS7G are the same price--anyone have a preference?  Both RCA brand.  Going to the 5998A (if its the right tube) adds $20 to the total cost, plus they list various brands so I'm inclined not to purchase it (at least from them) as I want a matched set.  And I don't think I want to spend the extra $20 right now.

 

So...5693 or 6AS7G?  And 5963 or EF80?  I'm sure I'll eventually end up with both, but I don't have the funds to buy every tube on the market at once.  (Actually I do since I hardly ever spend money anymore and have been living at home since getting sick, but I'm hoping in six months or a year's time I'll be healthy enough to have my own condo and need to able to afford some furniture).

 

I'm looking at TubesDepot.com--they seem to be the only one with a complete selection. Anyone ever used them before?  Thanks.

post #1116 of 2403
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

I'll definitely take pictures--I think the amp looks beautiful.

 

Help me out a bit with the tube rolling, if you could please.  Is the EF80 and the 5693 a good combo (I assume I need two of each).

 

Also, is the 5998 and 5998A interchangeable, and would the 5963 replace the EF80?  I'm trying to figure out my best bet.  At first it seems like only a few dollars difference between tubes, but then you realize you have to multiply that x 2.

 

The 5693 and the 6AS7G are the same price--anyone have a preference?  Both RCA brand.  Going to the 5998A (if its the right tube) adds $20 to the total cost, plus they list various brands so I'm inclined not to purchase it (at least from them) as I want a matched set.  And I don't think I want to spend the extra $20 right now.

 

So...5693 or 6AS7G?  And 5963 or EF80?  I'm sure I'll eventually end up with both, but I don't have the funds to buy every tube on the market at once.  (Actually I do since I hardly ever spend money anymore and have been living at home since getting sick, but I'm hoping in six months or a year's time I'll be healthy enough to have my own condo and need to able to afford some furniture).

 

I'm looking at TubesDepot.com--they seem to be the only one with a complete selection. Anyone ever used them before?  Thanks.

 

You should read up on power tubes and input tubes. They're not the same! You can not use EF80 AND 5693. It's one or the other.

So you need 1 pair of 6AS7G type tubes (6080, 2399,5998) AND one pair of 6J4P type (5693 etc) OR EF80 type tubes when using an adaptor.

Please do read the full thread, it is all explained

 

Stay away from 5998A, those ain't worth anything.

 

My advice: Buy a pair of RCA 6AS7G tubes, should cost around $40/pair. And a pair of Telefunken EF80 ($30/pair) if you have the adapters OR a pair of 5693($50). Always try to get matched pairs.

 

Check out this 6AS7G tube thread too: http://www.head-fi.org/t/410326/for-6as7g-tube-rollers-here

 

Please read all you can about tubes, it's pretty important not to use the wrong tubes or BOOM! ;-)

 

Get well soon.

post #1117 of 2403

Thanks for the advice.  I think I've got some reading to do before the amp arrives!

post #1118 of 2403

Got my amp today!  It looks and sounds great--BUT, the left channel has an occasional static/crackle noise.  I've played around with the volume pot and plugged and unplugged the headphones several times to see if I could either figure out where the noise was coming from or fix it, but no luck.  Please tell me this sounds like its possibly a bad/damaged tube since I plan to upgrade the tubes anyway.  Is there any way I'd check for that?  I'd really hate to have to send it back.  Thanks.

post #1119 of 2403
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

Got my amp today!  It looks and sounds great--BUT, the left channel has an occasional static/crackle noise.  I've played around with the volume pot and plugged and unplugged the headphones several times to see if I could either figure out where the noise was coming from or fix it, but no luck.  Please tell me this sounds like its possibly a bad/damaged tube since I plan to upgrade the tubes anyway.  Is there any way I'd check for that?  I'd really hate to have to send it back.  Thanks.

Hello.

Try to change the tubes in places. If noise appears in the right channel then just know there is a problem in the tubes.

Edited by StalkerAssassin - 11/3/12 at 11:29am
post #1120 of 2403

I removed the tube from the left side and blew out all the dust and debris from the packaging that might have gotten down into the socket.  I let it heat up again and then listened to nothing for about five minutes.  Then I put a few songs on, then listened to nothing again for a little while.  The crackling seemed to have gone away.  I'll have to give it some more time to be sure but I think all that happened was dust got into the socket.

post #1121 of 2403
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwardPawn View Post

I removed the tube from the left side and blew out all the dust and debris from the packaging that might have gotten down into the socket.  I let it heat up again and then listened to nothing for about five minutes.  Then I put a few songs on, then listened to nothing again for a little while.  The crackling seemed to have gone away.  I'll have to give it some more time to be sure but I think all that happened was dust got into the socket.

Tube at first can make a noise, but then the noise disappears with warming. Leave overnight amplifier on in power.

 
post #1122 of 2403
Do not leave on your tube amp overnight when unattended. That is a no go with tube amps!
post #1123 of 2403
I ordered 3 Genalex 6922's for my CSP2+ and 1 crackled like crazy. I got a replacement and the new one had the same issue. So I moved the new on into the driver slot and put the other 2 in the L/R positions and everyone is happy now....Sometimes moving them around solves problems....Why? Dunno...Tube Gremlins?
post #1124 of 2403

The crackling's gone.  I'm not sure if it was just from the new tube or if using air to blow dust out of the socket helped, but either way, that issue is good.  My initial impressions are very good.  Using the solid state amp, things sounded flat and I needed Dolby headphone for a better soundstage.  The first thing I noticed with this amp is that dolby headphone sounded a bit weird.  I switched to simple crossfeed and still have a nice soundstage.  I'll write a full review later.  My only complaint is that the stock tubes sound a little bright with my DT880s, causing some fatigue (I'm really glad I didn't buy the 990s atm).  I can probably lower the treble on my EQ, but I'd rather find a tube with better synergy.  I'll have to search through the thread and see if I can find a darker tube (unless anyone has some suggestions), plus I was going to get some EF80s.

post #1125 of 2403

After all of one day with my new amp, murphy's law struck!  I turned on the amp, let it heat up and went to look for something to listen to, only I couldn't get sound out of the left channel.  To equalize the volume I had to turn left up to about 2:00 when I had right at 10:00.  My first thought was that the amp had been damaged in shipping or built wrong, but I tried the headphones on my old amp and only got sound out of the right.  Then I wondered if the amp somehow blew the left channel and took the adapter off and tried it out of my PMP.  The sound was thin (obviously), but both channels work just fine.

 

There's obviously a problem with the adapter or the cord.  I tried a new adapter and had the same problem, but I only have the one screw on adapter so I don't know that I had a connection on both channels.

 

The headphones are a year old, so they're under warranty.  Should I send them to Beyer and let them diagnose the problem, or should I buy a new screw on adapter and see if that's all that I really need?  Thanks.

 

EDIT:  I tried my IEMs on my old amp and I'm getting good balance.  Then I tried the Beyers directly out of the sound card (1/4" plug) and got an imbalance on the channels.  It would seems somethings gone wrong with the Beyers...its odd that they work fine out of the PMP, though.


Edited by BackwardPawn - 11/5/12 at 4:26am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Dark Voice 339