Thunderpants! - Page 37

I get every bit of your post :)  best of luck to you! i'll be looking to see what you think of that JH3A setup if you end up with it.

from your previous post- i thought you were talking about blu tacking the driver back not the bass port, yes i have plugged one of the ports, i even started with just one and drilled a second to see haha. and yes the cable is strain relieved/hot glued on the inside and hot glued at every orifice i could find. and where the arms are connected to the cups the shelf bracket doesnt go all the way through the cup, and there is glue in there anyways. im really confident i have a great seal allround. :)

Cheers, M

does the felt have a big circle in the middle about the size of the driver hole or much bigger? Im using something similar yea

arggg- I just ordered a valhalla.... who knows how long till it gets here but im gonna do a showdown between the asgard and valhalla and keep one :) i'll throw up a thread and a heads up on here when i do make the throwdown thread... itl be short and to the point since im bad at describing sound anyways.

I'm also curious to what the felt is.

Any chance you could throw up some pics? 

never mind haha. 

Are you sure that its not part of the O2 pad? Most pads have a thin layer of material that separates your ear from the driver.

Here's a pic of  the innards and damping scheme on my Tps..I am totally loving it.

@mmayer..dude try removing that fiberglass and replacing it with this felt for the back of the cups.

Once agian a crude drawing of the damping on the back of the driver. This is what i have found to work terribly good for me.

@ Br777 Very interesting I might have to try that out.

@Sachu, Do you think felt will work better than dynamat? I have both and I'm unsure what to use. 

No..dynamat i would suggest to use when you want to add mass to the cups..since the cups are wood..you just need to damp out possible reflections from the back of the cups. 

Dynamat i would definitely use in the stock plastic cups. Also, I woouldn't want to use dynamat in the wood cups as it is basically an irreversible mod and i don't like irreversible mods unless am absolutely sure i want it there permanently.

Thanks, you guys.  Those additional pictures really help me with my planning and design.

Did some asking around yesterday, and it turns out I have access to a CNC machine, so I should be able to churn out a pair of these in the next month or two.

I have a pair of T40RPv1 on the way as well, and I don't know whether I'll end up designing a new enclosure for that too.  I haven't even heard them yet, so I don't want to get ahead of myself, but if it makes that big of a difference for the T50RP, it's definitely tempting.  Especially if I could just run another copy of things through CNC.

Hi. I have been a lurker in this thread for a while now, but have 2 pairs of T50RPs, one stock and one that I have modded (no new cups though). I was able to get a very good deal on the headphones from Music123 by just emailing them and asking them for their best price. It ended up being $55 shipped, so some of you may want to try that. I bought the second pair from them 2 weeks ago, so the price is current.

I would like to try to build a pair of TPs for myself, but I do not have access to a lathe. I may have a friend or two that could turn these for me, but if someone is interested in turning a pair of cups and baffles for me, please PM me. I will of course supply the wood and will pay to have the cups turned. Thanks for this thread.

ujamerstand's finished glossy :) grain is simi open going upto 2k grit took off a lot of the filler :( but it is much more glossy in person.

i bought one of them easy rougher gouge things things a beast never going to touch my 1 inch one again even did the inside with it which was soo easy

I like what I'm seeing here. :) This is not the same piece as the one in this post, is it? This one looks lighter than the other piece.

Also, any tips to protect the finish while I drill the holes in the cups?