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Thunderpants! - Page 3

post #31 of 2199

Bigrock2150, I'm going to do the mod as well. perhaps we could share ideas and compare procedures? Shoot me a pm!

post #32 of 2199

Woah, its good to see so many people doing this. Keep the ideas coming!

post #33 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaudlyDamage View Post

Bigrock2150, I'm going to do the mod as well. perhaps we could share ideas and compare procedures? Shoot me a pm!


Yeah sure, sounds like a plan. I ordered the T50rp last night so as soon as they arrive I'll let you know. 

post #34 of 2199


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BaudlyDamage View Post

Bigrock2150, I'm going to do the mod as well. perhaps we could share ideas and compare procedures? Shoot me a pm!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrock2150 View Post

Yeah sure, sounds like a plan. I ordered the T50rp last night so as soon as they arrive I'll let you know. 


Hey, keep me posted!  I'm gonna be doing this as well.   

 

On a side note, I'm kinda surprised how good they sound stock after one day of burn.  Pretty damn good, one of the best bang per buck items in my possession for sure.

post #35 of 2199

Great, so there is at least 5 of us working on this project right now.


Edited by ujamerstand - 7/21/10 at 2:03pm
post #36 of 2199

I think i might join you guys, the only problem I have is... How do i make the cups? I have a fully furnished woodshop sans bandsaw and lathe. I also have a ton of metal working stuff. Nothing big however. I was actually thinking of making some he90 or lcd-02 style cups. I thought I could use the baffle/metal cover like the lcd-2 does to create some back pressure. Possibly using it for tuning etc.  Speggy, have you tried the t50rp drivers fully open? Any thoughts?

 


 

post #37 of 2199

Ah, check the latest posts on the orthodynamic thread. Man, I wish I have the access to tools, or at least for space for them like you.

post #38 of 2199

Page 916 of the orthodynamic round up has the deminsions for the cups. let me know if you start making them! Also, for this group of moders (myself included) to comunicate better than we could with just a thread or Pm's. I sugest we all exchange gmail information and thus google talk information. if you dont ahve a gmail, never fear. im sure we can find another way to comunicate with ease.

post #39 of 2199

Yeah, I think we can just set up a separate thread so we can consult with each other.

 

To muad, making the cups with your lathe shouldn't be too hard, as long as you have chisels for basic bowl making you'll most likely be fine. Looking at smeggy's design it looks like a fairly basic cup. I might be able to help you out when we all reach that point.

 

I'm not so good with setting up threads, so if one of you guys could set one up for us that would be great! 

post #40 of 2199

Making the cups isn't all that hard (though finishing them like Smeggy does..umm I think that is a tall tall order for someone who isn't experienced with woodworking), tuning them however is a different ball game altogether. THen there is the matter of making the baffle which apparently is the harder part of making the cups and the chance of ruining the solder pads on the driver if you aren't careful.

 

As for tuning the stock T50Rp..mass damping the cups and baffle is the first issue..mine was significantly heavier once I was done with it. This is easily done with speaker caulk, blue tak and dynamat.

Next is the acoustic damping that you fine tune over several iterations depending on your tastes which is where things get interesting and is a whole lot of fun.


Edited by sachu - 7/21/10 at 3:11pm
post #41 of 2199

Sachu, so did smeggy refine his dampening method? On page 916 in the ortho roundup thread it looked like he just used a couple pieces of felt to dampen. Or is using dynamat, speaker caulk and blue tak better in your experience?

 

I have around 3-4 years of turning (using the lathe) experience so hopefully I can provide some help to others. I wonder if using wood for the baffle would work as well? In the tread smeggy used a dense plastic and turned them on a lathe, seems like wood might be easier to work with.

post #42 of 2199

Yup, wood or plastic will do fine for the baffles. I've used everything I can get my hands on to try. Wood is easiest to work with and most predictable. Damping, same again. I try every daft thing I can think of to try. I do it for fun so every time I start it's different from the rest otherwise it'd get boring and just become a production line. I do this because I like doing it but I'm getting less play time these days so it's a treat to get into the shop these days. The T50 still has the potential to be one of the best phones around so don't be afraid to play around and try things. Making them sound good isn't magic, just solid engineering, so as long as you can make a good solid housing you are 90% of the way there.

 

I have a metric butload of power tools to make life easier but they can be made with fairly rudimentary tools and some elbow grease if you're not too bothered about their looks.

 

post #43 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by sachu View Post
As for tuning the stock T50Rp..mass damping the cups and baffle is the first issue..mine was significantly heavier once I was done with it. This is easily done with speaker caulk, blue tak and dynamat.


All these 3 needed or just 1? Which one do you think is best used? TIA.

post #44 of 2199

I'd use speaker caulk or blu tak on the baffle and dynamat on the back of the cups.

post #45 of 2199

Sachu, for the sake of the whole forum and my newb self... could you post a pic please :)   Edit: Only if it's not too much work to take the headphone apart. I don;t want to be too much of a pain!

 

Smeggy, how does the t50rp respond to being open air? Im gonna assume a complete loss of bass and lower mids? I don't really have the money to buy shetloads of quality wood so I need to decide if I have to go open or closed before I start. Im dying to hear what an ortho sounds like btw...

 

Thanks guys


Edited by muad - 7/21/10 at 5:05pm
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