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Thunderpants! - Page 141

post #2101 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigreNegrito View Post

 



I picked up an unfinished kit a couple months ago... he's got a lot of things going on in real life at the moment so the wait time to get the product is a bit extended, but that aside, the unfinished kit gives you everything minus the labor on finishing (i.e. staining and sealing the wood) but otherwise the kits are the same.  Unfinished starts at $200 and I think finished is $100-150 more at the base level.  Price goes up depending upon what type of wood you choose as they are either more rare and/or more difficult for him to work with. 

 

I got maple burl which is normally a more exotic wood price, but I think at the time that I placed my order (early this year) he had gotten a bunch in stock and didn't charge me more so my kit was at $200.  Haven't gotten around to finishing it out yet, but he will send a link that gives all the assembly instructions and they are pretty straight forward. 

 

As far as treating the wood, that can be easily found on the web by just searching how to finish whatever type of wood you choose, but that's basically sanding, staining and sealing and even if you've never done any basic woodwork, the information is out there and easy to follow.  Just take your time and read through everything several times before you start.  If you've never worked with wood before, get yourself a scrap piece of wood to run the whole procedure on so that you are comfortable with it, because once you stain, it's pretty much a done deal.  Hope that helps.

 

P.S. His kits are very nicely done, and his woodwork is high quality, so any sanding you do will only be very light.

 

Thanks for your in depth reply! Based on what you're saying, it seems like the unfinished kits are a pretty good deal. How about preparing the Fostex phones for the mod...it seems like trimming the baffle/driver is going to be the hardest part of the whole process. Have you got around to doing that and have you experienced any difficulties with it?

post #2102 of 2199

just use a hacksaw with wire blade, you will cut the driver off the baffle easily, however it will take some time. Remember to protect the driver with tape from sawdust and file the edge after to finish

post #2103 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigreNegrito View Post

 



I picked up an unfinished kit a couple months ago... he's got a lot of things going on in real life at the moment so the wait time to get the product is a bit extended, but that aside, the unfinished kit gives you everything minus the labor on finishing (i.e. staining and sealing the wood) but otherwise the kits are the same.

 

Thanks for the heads up.  I wasn't in a hurry for my purchase, but its good to know why he's a bit slow....

post #2104 of 2199

I have been thinking of HE-5 ear-pads for T50RP. Do anyone try these ear-pads? They seem very comfortable, well padded and deep.

 

I have %99.9 copper Mogami quad microphone cables (mini and 24Awg types), Canare copper quad wire and Teflon insulated Silver Plated Copper wires. Which one would be better to use?
 

post #2105 of 2199

I picked up both the velour and leather earpads from HiFiMAN.  Smeggs said that they were a tighter fit on the baffle and would require the baffle be trimmed around the edge a bit for a better seal.  He also said that leather creates a better seal, but at $20 a set, it was worth it to me to pick up both and see what I thought.  Personally, I like the soft, breathable material but not if it is a drastic tradeoff for SQ. 

 

As I said, though, I haven't gotten around to assembly yet.  I may have time Saturday and I'll get everything test-assembled before I stain and seal the wood, that way I can let y'all know my experiences and anything I tweaked along the way.

 

I haven't read this entire thread, but I'm sure that's been addressed somewhere in here or the T50RP thread.
 

post #2106 of 2199

Does anyone know where online I get a great price for a set of Stax O2 pads?

post #2107 of 2199

"Thanks for your in depth reply! Based on what you're saying, it seems like the unfinished kits are a pretty good deal. How about preparing the Fostex phones for the mod...it seems like trimming the baffle/driver is going to be the hardest part of the whole process. Have you got around to doing that and have you experienced any difficulties with it?"

 

Yes, if you're not afraid to work a little bit, its a great deal and I can't overemphasize enough the high quality of the product that he sends you.  I mentioned sanding because burl woods typically have blemishes in them, like natural nicks and crevices.  You can get really involved and mix some sawdust and epoxy together to fill those holes and sand it down for a uniform smooth surface, but the more I look at it, I kinda like the idiosyncrasies so I think I will leave them unfilled.  It's not like they are huge holes anyway, and the poly coat will fill it in/seal it anyway.  There's only one or two tiny blemishes like that per cup, but that's part of the appeal of maple burl.

 

That said, the sanding part will only come between coats of poly.  The wood itself is shipped ready to be treated, so you can jump right in when it arrives.

 

No, like I said I haven't started anything yet, but I will use dremmel tool as he suggests in his instructions to trim down the stock Fostex baffles.  The hacksaw/wire blade is a fine idea for those who don't have/wish to invest in a dremmel tool, but even those can be had for $10 if you catch them on sale at Harbor Freight. 

 

I just picked up all the adhesives, pre-stain, stain, polycoat and a few other things I know I have but can't seem to locate (solder, etc) and am about to sit down and start the whole process so I should be able to update soon if I don't get too distracted.


Edited by TigreNegrito - 6/22/12 at 2:54pm
post #2108 of 2199

First thing was the trimming of the driver.  That turned out to be simple, and I don't know if Smeggs has changed the interior diameter of his cups since he started, but I found that if I just snipped the top plastic tab (side opposite where the wires are soldered to the driver) the whole thing fit inside the cup perfectly, though slightly off-center.  The plastic tabs are what the three screws thread into that hold the driver/baffle assembly together on the stock setup and they trim off easily with a pair of wire cutters.

 

IMG_0528.JPG

 

So, setting my trimmed driver over the padding in the cup, I screwed the new baffle into the cup.  The new baffle has a round center hole but the driver is square.  Rather than following Smeggs' instructions, I traced lines on the baffle to give a rough estimate of the driver shape - you'll be able to see part of the edges through the hole, you just extrapolate where the corners of the drivers will be.  Remember, it's a little off-center so your square won't be exactly centered around the original hole. 

 

Then, I undid everything and took the baffles and trimmed along those lines to make the inner circle into a square.  I used a fine tooth wood blade on a jigsaw.  I just flipped the saw upside down and held it tightly between my legs while seated, held the baffle against the foot of the jigsaw and used it kinda like a table saw.  (that was after the learning curve improved - initially I tried a dremmel tool with a cut-off wheel and that didn't work too well)

 

IMG_0535.JPG

 

So now rather than gluing the driver behind the baffle, it sits right flush in the square hole.  If you do this, make sure you test to ensure that the driver/baffle assembly still fits back in the cup AND the screw holes align.  I had to do a bit more trimming on one side of one baffle to allow the driver to shift enough and fit back in the cup.  Once the test fit is ok, then you can use Goop or E6000 to adhere the driver to the back side of the baffle.  While the glue is still wet, be sure to set the assembly back into the cup (with padding) and screw in all the screws.  That way you know it fits and the padding will help press the driver up against the baffle while the glue is drying.

 

IMG_0536.JPG

 

Anyway, reason I diverged from the standard path is because I gained a 1/4" depth between the back of the driver and the wall of the cup so if later on I want to tweak the damping, I have room to do so.  That's where I am so far.  As soon as the glue is set, I'll undo everything and start stain/seal and hopefully have this project complete by mid-week.

 

Wed 6/27 - Not quite finished yet.  Got the cups stained and sealed with 5 coats of poly.  Nothing highlights the imperfections in the wood surface as well as a nice coat of varnish, by which time it's too late to worry about it.  Problem with burl is that the filling the little nooks up will smooth the wood, but leave dots of discoloration wherever those filled in spots are.  Very hard to match the wood tone with all the swirling patterns in burl.  All in all, the cups look great and when I get back from vacation next week, I look forward to putting it all together and giving them a listen!

 

Unfinished wood:

 

IMG_0532.JPG

 

Finished wood: Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner, natural wood finish #209, and spray poly in clear gloss.

 

IMG_0714.JPG


Edited by TigreNegrito - 7/8/12 at 5:32am
post #2109 of 2199

Just received my Custom Thunderpants TP1, sound pretty good so far, but not as good as my LCD2's (Which i expected), but hopefully they improve with burn in.

Finish sure is nice though.

 

Audeze Leather Headband

Audeze Leather Pads

Pink Flame Wood

Dual bass Ports (one on top, one on bottom)

Balanced 6ft Cable with SE Adapter.

 

Enjoy!

 

20120630_131509.jpg

20120630_131527.jpg

20120630_131535.jpg

20120630_131446.jpg


Edited by darren700 - 6/30/12 at 12:24pm
post #2110 of 2199

Very nice.  Just out of curiosity, how long was the wait for those?  Gary is sometimes tough to figure out...

post #2111 of 2199
It was about a 3 week wait. Gary's communication with me was pretty good. Had pictures from him before he built them (cups) and when they were finished and ready to ship.
post #2112 of 2199

Anyone have a clue how to hook up the shielded wire he ships in the DIY kit to the 1/4" plug?  I know where the R/L  positives go, but do I hook the grounds and the shield wires together or just clip the shield wires?


Edited by TigreNegrito - 7/6/12 at 6:08pm
post #2113 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigreNegrito View Post

Anyone have a clue how to hook up the shielded wire he ships in the DIY kit to the 1/4" plug?  I know where the R/L  positives go, but do I hook the grounds and the shield wires together or just clip the shield wires?

 

 

Shield is useless on a 1/4 inch plug. It's when you get into balanced plugs do you hook up the shield. Clip it off and save yourself a headache.

post #2114 of 2199

Thanks... I kinda figured that's what was supposed to happen but didn't want to make a bonehead mistake and fry the guts before I ever even listen to these things!  I'll finish it soon!

 

(tick-tock)

 

Mission Accomplished!

 

IMG_0715.JPG

 

 

IMG_0716.JPG

 

IMG_0713.JPG

 

Nestles nicely in a HiFiMAN case if you don't glue the hanger posts into the cups.  Also, I didn't find that I needed to trim the baffle circumference at all to slip the HiFiMAN pads on.  Very happy with the project overall and the SQ is much improved (to my ears) over the stock T50's - very much warmer.  If I had it to do all over, I'd choose the Audeze headband as in Darren's pictures above.  Slimmer profile and shows off the woodwork better. 


Edited by TigreNegrito - 7/7/12 at 8:21am
post #2115 of 2199

Wow TigreNegrito!!!!!

 

That second photo is absolutely stunning!!!!!

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