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Thunderpants! - Page 140

post #2086 of 2199

From my understanding anything that is hard or dense works best. I plan on going with a lighter wood and doing a little bit of dampening with paxmate and dynamat like I did for the Rastapants 2. Doing it that way won't result in the signature sound that is the Thunderpants, but oh well. I prefer the Thunderpants more for their aesthetics than anything else. As long as I get a nice sound with thumpin' bass I'm happy.


Edited by Jayben - 5/14/12 at 6:33pm
post #2087 of 2199

Unless you're clocking someone over the head with 'em, you probably meant aesthetics.  Just got my kit from Smeggy and will assemble with what he sent first, but may utilize some extra dampening methods as described herein! 

post #2088 of 2199

Ahh yes, sorry about that!
 

post #2089 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by OperatorPerry View Post

Would maple, walnut, or mahogany cups sound the best?

 

Perry

 

In all seriousness, I'm not 100% convinced that does a whole lot to improve the sound of the Fostex headphones.  As reflected in an earlier post, Smeggy (Gary) uses wood because it is attractive and easy to work with, but didn't comment on any sound improvements with its use.  I'm of the belief that one is best to keep the plastic cups and focus on the proven modifications based on the information contained with the Fostex thread on this site.  Buy some better pads and maybe recable the headphones, seal 'em up and enjoy them.

post #2090 of 2199

Well, I'm joining the Thunderpants club by purchasing a pair from Smeggy.  Maple Burl with Beyer leather ear pads.  I want to make a pair for myself, but I also want to hear the real deal.

 

I think I'll give the "Plasti-Pants" mod a go instead.  That way, I'll still have Gary's to fall back on always.  I'm very excited, and scratching my head now over amplification......

post #2091 of 2199

When I had myn (self made) I loved them with the Lyr. Also the O2 definitely did them justice, and my e11 gave them some extra bass and a more "up front" presentation. 

 

-m

post #2092 of 2199

hey guys, just want to ask if what would be the dimensions of making t50rp cups? sorry if this is the wrong thread to answer...

post #2093 of 2199

The common OD is 4".  I don't remember the usual ID, if there even is one.

post #2094 of 2199

Somewhere back in this thread, Smeggy posted drawings with dimensions of how he does his cups.

post #2095 of 2199

Does anyone know what the differences between the unfinished and finished kits on Smeggy's website are? Are there any clear instructions on how to go from an unfinished kit (or finished kit) to a finished Thunderpants pair? 

post #2096 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyaems View Post

hey guys, just want to ask if what would be the dimensions of making t50rp cups? sorry if this is the wrong thread to answer...

A quick answer to save trying to find the original. These are Smeggy's dimensions that I made a note of

 

Cup and baffle diameter 4 inches

Cup inside diameter 3 1/4 inches

Cup inside depth  3/4 inches

Overall cup depth 1 inch

Baffle thickness 1/2 inch

Baffle inner recess (the rim of the cups sit in this) 3/8 inch wide 1/16 inch deep

Baffle outer lip 1/2 inch wide then dished 5/16 deep for ear room

Driver hole 1 1/2 inch diameter

post #2097 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyaems View Post

hey guys, just want to ask if what would be the dimensions of making t50rp cups? sorry if this is the wrong thread to answer...

http://www.head-fi.org/t/501773/thunderpants/270#post_6842477

post #2098 of 2199

 

That's the post I was refering to. I had forgotten how far back in the thread it was.

post #2099 of 2199

Thanks! Will do backread if I the time =)

post #2100 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by karohan View Post

Does anyone know what the differences between the unfinished and finished kits on Smeggy's website are? Are there any clear instructions on how to go from an unfinished kit (or finished kit) to a finished Thunderpants pair? 

 



I picked up an unfinished kit a couple months ago... he's got a lot of things going on in real life at the moment so the wait time to get the product is a bit extended, but that aside, the unfinished kit gives you everything minus the labor on finishing (i.e. staining and sealing the wood) but otherwise the kits are the same.  Unfinished starts at $200 and I think finished is $100-150 more at the base level.  Price goes up depending upon what type of wood you choose as they are either more rare and/or more difficult for him to work with. 

 

I got maple burl which is normally a more exotic wood price, but I think at the time that I placed my order (early this year) he had gotten a bunch in stock and didn't charge me more so my kit was at $200.  Haven't gotten around to finishing it out yet, but he will send a link that gives all the assembly instructions and they are pretty straight forward. 

 

As far as treating the wood, that can be easily found on the web by just searching how to finish whatever type of wood you choose, but that's basically sanding, staining and sealing and even if you've never done any basic woodwork, the information is out there and easy to follow.  Just take your time and read through everything several times before you start.  If you've never worked with wood before, get yourself a scrap piece of wood to run the whole procedure on so that you are comfortable with it, because once you stain, it's pretty much a done deal.  Hope that helps.

 

P.S. His kits are very nicely done, and his woodwork is high quality, so any sanding you do will only be very light.

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