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Thunderpants! - Page 137

post #2041 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by timbo4321 View Post

Well done. For a beginner your lathe work looks very good. I've modded one pair with plastic cups and have another pair of T50 to convert to woodies but lack of time has stopped me. 

 

Modding affects the efficiency of the cans so you'll need to do them both to know for sure if one is off balance. I'm guessing that if they weren't off balance to start with they won't be off balance when you finish.


Thanks! Youtube videos helped. And though i turned my own baffles too, i figured it'd be easier to keep them in spec if i just printed them at work instead (we have 3d printers and the build material is super dense so it should better than wood)

 

As for the uneven signal...that's true, i guess i should just finish it up and see eh? 
 

I wonder if anyone would object if i put a picture post up explaining how I did it. I know that people want to protect smeggy's intellectual property (as do i).

post #2042 of 2199
Quote:
Originally Posted by theledman View Post


Thanks! Youtube videos helped. And though i turned my own baffles too, i figured it'd be easier to keep them in spec if i just printed them at work instead (we have 3d printers and the build material is super dense so it should better than wood)

 

As for the uneven signal...that's true, i guess i should just finish it up and see eh? 
 

I wonder if anyone would object if i put a picture post up explaining how I did it. I know that people want to protect smeggy's intellectual property (as do i).


In the sprit of the UK press 'publish and be damned!" But seriously, in a public forum we all read this because we want knowledge. We each have knowledge we pass on to others, ultimately its your judgement, but I'm sure we'd all like to know your way of problem solving. It might just help others just as Smeggy selflessly has helped us all.


Edited by timbo4321 - 3/30/12 at 2:21pm
post #2043 of 2199

OK I am a happy (Easter) bunny. My woodied T50's are finished and I am more than happy with the sound with very little in the way of modding. Here is how I did my conversion. Pictures may follow when I figure out how to post them!

 

Wanting to utilize the current plastic baffles I decided to make an oval pair of cups. I only had some 2.5 inch square cherry wood lying around so I cut two pieces to the correct length of just over 4.25 inches, sliced them in half and edge glued them together to make two pieces of 5x4.25x1.7. I put these on the lathe using a screw chuck and turned the face, reversed the wood on the screw chuck and turned the cup using Smeggy's useful dimensions. Yes there is a hole through the centre of the cup but this is removed in the next step. To make the oval cups the centre 1/2 inch of the cups is sawn out and the half cups reglued to give the oval of the correct size.

 

At this point, having made two oval cups I found the original Fostex baffles have a lot of strengthening ribs which get in the way. I decided to ditch the original baffles so a quick look through the spare timber pile and some 3/8 MDF got cut to size and pressed into service. I removed the headphone drivers from the baffle and having cut a square hole screwed the drivers into place against the MDF after using some Newplast to seal the driver against the MDF. I put Paxmate on the back of the cups and used a ring of Paxmate around the edge of the baffle to seal the baffle against the cups. 

 

I did a very simple rewiring job using wire connectors, no soldering, no hassle. I assume it can't work any worse than Fostex's awful TRS (jack plug) job. I also use the original headband screw into the new wooden ear cups. It only needs a 10.5mm hole drilled throughout the centre of the cups and then a little work with a countersink bit and the original screw fitting screws into the headband end plate really easily. There isn't a lot of movement but I find it isn't necessary to move the ear cups much. You need to remove the anti rotation pins in the headband endplate. I filed these down and used a square of Paxmate between the wooden cups and endplate. Even if I made round cups and didn't cut out the centre I would have been able to use the hole in the cups (from the screw chuck) for the headband mounting. There is no need to buy an expensive chuck to make cups for your Fostex.

 

Apart from Paxmate in the cups, and Paxmate to seal the baffle to the cups, the only dampening used is the Newplast seal (and maybe a little incidental mass loading) between the drivers and the MDF baffle and some Dynamat around the edges of the driver. The bass breather hole in the cups is 2mm diameter and the breather hole from back of the driver through the baffle is also 2mm diameter. The cups were finished with several coats of car lacquer and I use Shure 840 ear pads to finish off. Recabled with a jack extension cable I had lying around, I just cut off the socket end - next time I'll do a better job with some proper cable.

 

Using an O2 amplifier the volume needs turning up as the efficiency seems quite poor but the sound is nothing short of astonishing. Bass is tight and extended, treble is sparkly and detailed. Mids are beautiful, female jazz vocal is alive. I hear when acoustic bass notes start and stop, I'm sure I never heard this amount of detail before from my Denon D7000's. I have another pair of T50's I have been fiddling with for ages and still don't think I have the sound right. Even classical sounds sparkly. Compared to the Denons the tonality is also better, the sound has more body to it. To be honest I can't believe I have achieved so much just by woodying my T50's, in fact thinking you can't 'polish a turd' I nearly sold them a few days after purchase. With the O2 the silences are incredibly black, just me and the sound of blood rushing around in my ears (and maybe a little tinnitus lol). I think this accounts for some of the extra detail I am picking up. I'm glad I have persevered with these cans. If anything needs work it is the sound of the piano that needs tuning, but I think that applies to all the headphones I have heard.

 

Sad to say I promised this conversion to my son for his birthday in a few days time.... sigh! I will do my other pair soon - I hope this wasn't beginners luck and my other pair turn out to be as good.

 

 

post #2044 of 2199
Thanks for the write up timbo, I look forward to pictures!
post #2045 of 2199

Latest news, I've just put on a pair of Stax O2 ear pads and the music has taken on an even sharper focus. Piano is now as good as I can imagine it with no funny resonances. The difference is immediately striking. I am amazed at the difference ear pads make to the overall sound.

post #2046 of 2199

Pics, yes yes!

 

Congrats on a successful build.....

post #2047 of 2199

I am still at a loss on how I can get these, no responses yet... :(

post #2048 of 2199

 

Here are some pictures of my oval ear cup T50's as promised. In the piccy below you can see the very small bass port in the middle of some untidy finishing - yes I was in a bit of a hurry to get these finished in time for my son's birthday so some compromises had to be made.

 

IMG_0289.JPG

 

The picture below shows the join line in the centre of the cups. Removing half an inch from the centre of the cups and reglueing gives an oval the right size for the Shure ear pads. Finish off the cups by a little gentle sanding to shape and to round off the cups.

 

 

IMG_0290.JPG

 

I used the original screw and shaped washer to connect the cups to the headband. There is a little movement but not as much as the original and I also took off the anti rotation pins. There is a small square of Paxmate between the cups and the headband to reduce noise. It does stifle movement of the cups but I still get a good seal between the era pads and my head. YMMV here. Possibly a little Paxmate from the baffle seal is showing from under the edge of the ear pad, the Shure pads are only just big enough to cover a 10mm thick baffle, you'll need to cut a recess round the edge of the baffle if your baffle is going to be any thicker - alternatively use the Stax O2 ear pads.

 

IMG_0293.JPG

 

One half unfinished cup - annoyingly the saw caught the other half as I was cutting and broke it, but I have this one remaining as a demo.

 

IMG_0295.JPG

 

Maybe a little too thin for the back of the cups - its down to 1/8 inch but the next pair cups were a little thicker!

 

IMG_0297.JPG

 

 

post #2049 of 2199

I had a week off in which I was planning on dedicating to modding a pair of T50RPs into woodies/BMF mods and alas the day the ups guy arrives he delivers my package to the neighbors and they claim to have never received anything =[. So I spent a good 10~ days dealing with B&H photography (who were very helpful by the way =]) and I got a refund for my headphones and ultimately abandoned my modding ventures due to time constraints.

 

Anywho has anyone ever considered using this :stippel_shop__34115_zoom.jpg<Stubble/stipple sponge for make up, it looks as though it would be perfect for damping material and it's very light.

 

now to get rid of these now useless pair of Shure 840 earpads I bought from amazon still considering what to do with them.

 

Edit:Very very nice looking timbo.

post #2050 of 2199

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post #2051 of 2199

That foam will most likely be useful for holding damping against the back of the driver.  I doubt it would have any use directly as damping.

post #2052 of 2199

So I just finished reading this thread and I feel like I'm ripping all of you off for your advice and insight!  I plan on making some practice cups this coming week on some scrap wood I have laying around. I don't have a lathe or anything so I'll be using circular saws and an assortment of sanders. If I can nail it down on the scraps I'll go and purchase some exotics off eBay. Before I begin designing and drawing my headphones I have a few questions!

 

1: If I were to install some sort of volume control off of a pair of rather poor quality earbuds (you know the rotating disk that's attached half way up the cord?) would the quality of the sound go decrease? I doubt it would, but just from experience in general when one pairs something of high quality with something of low quality it almost always suffers. I would simply make the cups larger so that when I place the device in and cover it the cup has the same volume and shape as Smeggy's internal dimensions. 

 

2: Does anyone have any dimensions of the LCD-2 pads? If so, could you send me a picture with the dimensions listed out! It would be greatly appreciated! 

 

3: What's the reasoning for having a cord coming from each cup verses rewiring it the way Fostex has, one cable on the left side. I'm just curious as to why I haven't seen anyone continue this theme.

 

I just want to thank all of you for the fun I've had reading this thread and the fun I'll have the next few weeks as I'm slowing making the thoughts and ideas in my head a reality! 

post #2053 of 2199

1)  Those volume control circuits really vary a lot.  It might not hurt anything or it could sound awful.

 

2)  Don't know.

 

3)  I prefer single sided as well.  It's far more convenient.  I'm unaware of any technical reason why dual entry is better for non-electrostatic headphones like the T50RP.

post #2054 of 2199

I'll just have to test it then! Off to Savers and Goodwill!

post #2055 of 2199

Okay, so I've designed the cups, but I have another question before I complete it. Does the position of the bass ports matter? I plan on using threaded inserts and cutting out two-three holes and using screws on hopefully something more elegant looking to screw into said holes in order to change the bass on the fly. Sometimes I just like feeling the beat without the extra volume and I think this may satisfy that need.

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