Thunderpants! - Page 136

I wanted a pair of this and I've contacted Smeggy through his email and no reply for a week, is it better to contact him through PM on this forum?

I think Smeggy has been busy filling orders, you could try to pm him.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magick Man 


I tried to contact him a month ago, and he never got back to me.

From what I understand, Smeggy has been having a lot of difficulty keeping up with the demand, especially since certain samples of wood are harder to lathe than others and are more prone to cracking (like Ebony from I hear). Gary's a good guy though and he got back to me really quick on my set, though my set is entirely standard.

Kojaku

Quote:

Originally Posted by MohawkUS 

I've been talking to Gary a bit this past week as I was considering ordering a pair. He always got back to me in less than 24-hours. He said build time was about a month, and he has 3 sets currently up for sale that could ship out as soon as they were paid for. Seems a bit odd people are having communication issues.

I was after the one of the 3 sets that were finished...

I commented on the group buy thread already. I emailed Gary on November 22nd and received the phones by December 27th. So yeah, it took about a month. I went with stock TP1s. I guess working with some of these exotic woods is a lot harder than maple, walnut, etc. I'm not sure what the group buy guys were looking for but it is odd that some are still waiting. I did have a 48 hour response time on some emails, but all in all I'm very happy with my purchase.

To the Grado/Magnum guys I find it interesting that some of you were all about the Magnums and now the shine is wearing off and you're on to bigger and better things. I ended up falling into the Magnums by accident and after going through one set of v4 drivers I got a set of slightly older grey v4s. I find that there is a difference even between v4 drivers. The take away is that like T50RP mods there will be variations in sound with the Magnums and different types of wooden cups. Gotta love this modding stuff.

On another note I'll be taking a look at this whole thread among a few others... While poking around at work last week I found a pair of T20RP mk2s sitting there gathering dust. I thought what a shame... time to bring these back to life! If things work out I might have to sell my TP1s...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mullet 

I commented on the group buy thread already. I emailed Gary on November 22nd and received the phones by December 27th. So yeah, it took about a month. I went with stock TP1s. I guess working with some of these exotic woods is a lot harder than maple, walnut, etc. I'm not sure what the group buy guys were looking for but it is odd that some are still waiting. I did have a 48 hour response time on some emails, but all in all I'm very happy with my purchase.

 

To the Grado/Magnum guys I find it interesting that some of you were all about the Magnums and now the shine is wearing off and you're on to bigger and better things. I ended up falling into the Magnums by accident and after going through one set of v4 drivers I got a set of slightly older grey v4s. I find that there is a difference even between v4 drivers. The take away is that like T50RP mods there will be variations in sound with the Magnums and different types of wooden cups. Gotta love this modding stuff.

 

On another note I'll be taking a look at this whole thread among a few others... While poking around at work last week I found a pair of T20RP mk2s sitting there gathering dust. I thought what a shame... time to bring these back to life! If things work out I might have to sell my TP1s...

Why sell the TP1's? They're so beautiful...

Kojaku
 

They're beauties indeed. There's no denying that. But if I can achieve the same sound quality at a fraction of the cost then I wouldn't mind getting some money back for a LCD-2 purchase.

Hello =], I'd like to dive headfirst into attempting to make a set of wooden cups for my t50rp's that are currently inbound (for personal use) I was curious about the design specifications however and wondering if they differ from the designs that Teejay linked earlier in the thread/smeggy in '10 other than baffle design size. (IE is cup depth still 3/4ths of an inch on his current models. I've found lots of good advice on how to go about the assembly of the phones/dampening though I can't quite see any confirmation on the current cup design. Thanks in advance and a reply in a PM would be great as I'm sure it's not nice to have these things easily found.

Again best regards,

Dace.

Dace...Pm'ed you

Just finished turning and varnishing my cups for this project...It's my first time turning wood (bought a lathe off craigslist just for this project), buying exotics from ebay, and modding headphones but boy it's been fun for sure. I'll probably post a more detailed entry once i've completed them but for now, here's some pictures :)

i have run into a snag though...I've assembled one of the cups and left the other one unmodded so i could see if there was a difference and the modded side has significantly less bass than the dampened (but stock housing) side. I've made sure the seal is perfect, widened the bass port, and taken away most of the dampening/tape so air will move more freely but it's still lacking. It almost seemed as if the balance was off so when i rebalanced L/R in my stereo, the bass came through much better, even better than the unmodded side. So I guess my question is, what could possibly be causing such a dramatic drop in volume for the modded side? The only other variable is the wiring (I soldered some extension wires to the driver so I had more room to work with. These are the small wires in Cat5 [ethernet cable] 8-pin cables.) I thought this might be the issue, but the gauge of these wires is not much smaller than the wire bridging the L/R drivers in the stock headphones. 

Well done. For a beginner your lathe work looks very good. I've modded one pair with plastic cups and have another pair of T50 to convert to woodies but lack of time has stopped me. 

Modding affects the efficiency of the cans so you'll need to do them both to know for sure if one is off balance. I'm guessing that if they weren't off balance to start with they won't be off balance when you finish.

Oh, Smeggy, what have you started!