How sensitive are denon d2000 drivers to heat?

Re-cabling the D2000 is pretty easy due to the pcb connection; it should take less than 5 seconds of applied heat to make the joint anyway. I re-cabled mine last year, and it took me about an hour. If I had not been very familiar with the disassembly procedure of the D2000, it probably would have taken longer.

The soldering iron looks ok, but the 25w weller should be fine for this kind of repair. The one in the link is not a true soldering station, but a variable (but not temperature regulated) iron. A temperature controlled soldering station will monitor the temperature and reduce power if it goes above the set point, and add power if it drops below, while the one in your link just has adjustable power. This means that as you turn the knob, it is like changing from a 5w soldering iron up to a 45w soldering iron...not temperature controlled. Also, there are only 4 different tips available for it (and I only see 2 that I like), so there might be better tip availability for your weller (I don't know).
 

I would probably keep the weller until you can afford a temperature controlled station. Here is an example of a less expensive unit:

BlackJack SolderWerks Soldering Station (BK2000) http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/9747

I have this one because I need the extra heat for soldering larger gauge wire for r/c airplane use: 

Soldering Station for Lead Free Solder (CSI-2901) http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8395

Also, many people prefer the stations with a digital display, but I much prefer the analog units because I think it is faster to adjust the temperature with a simple knob. However, I rarely change temps at all anyway.

Another also...I HIGHLY recommend one of these instead of a wet sponge for cleaning the tip between joints:

Tip Cleaner with Stand (MODEL 460) http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7499

The brass scrubber part is available as a replacement part as well.

Hope this info helps in some way.

Scott

63/37 Sn/Pb solder melts at about 183C, but I have my iron set at 325C. I would start somewhere between 325 and 350 and as you learn more, make a slight adjustment until you like the results. Sometimes when I am soldering 18Ga - 10Ga wires to an electric motor, I set it higher as even my 70W iron will drop too much in temperature. For pcb work I leave it at 325C.

You would be surprised how effective even a cheapo clip on heat-sink is when re-cabling headphones....

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103242&CAWELAID=107595254

Yes, I sometimes use these when soldering a sensitive device to a pcb with large traces or ground plane: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062233

They are a flat nose copper alligator clip and you can bend the nose with pliers to get the nose into small places.

Shouldn't be necessary with the Denon headphones, though, because the cord solders directly to a small pcb and the drivers are connected to another part of the pcb.

Also consider that a higher wattage iron will be able to put the heat on the solder fast, instead of heating everything up.

a 30W sharp iron and some cardas eutectic solder(melting temperature is extremely low @338°F/170°C) will do the job, never keep the iron in contact for more than 1 sec

I do all my audio gear soldering with a 25W Weller.  Chips and everything.  Patience in waiting for things to cool before hitting them again goes a long way

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamthecheese 

I was looking at the stations on that site and was wondering is there any difference between normal and lead free soldering stations besides max power consumption and price.

No, just power and price...lead free solder takes higher temps, but the lead free stations work just fine with regular leaded solder.