Toucan and Boomslang (IBasso Audio) Balanced Review Thread - Page 14

There is only one big problem with the Toucan IMO:   It is a very tough act to follow!!

Ron

I just hope Ray is hard at work putting the finishing touches on the SR71B. He'll have to work harder than ever to top this one, IMHO.  Looking forward to comparing them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulybatz 

Lets please keep all content on the Toucan and Boomslang, props to RSA audio but not the topic here!

Of course we have to allow for comparisons with competing products, otherwise this review thread would be mired in a meaningless vacuum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by grokit 

 

Of course we have to allow for comparisons with competing products, otherwise this review thread would be mired in a meaningless vacuum.

That is exactly what I meant.  Right now the P1 stands alone in the marketplace with the closest competitor being the Protector.  That will not be the case forever.  The value proposition it represents is amazing.

I'm still burning my P1/DB1 in from my iPad and a TWagged HD800 using a balanced XLR to Hirose adapter.  Should be well over 250 hours now.  I'm stunned how well the P1 can drive the HD800s even at 6dB gain.

Sadly I suspect the SR71B is going to be as expensive as the PB1 & DB1 together... I hope my friend gets one, or my wallet is going to hate me.  Accursed curiosity .

Quote:

Originally Posted by warp08 

That is exactly what I meant.  Right now the P1 stands alone in the marketplace with the closest competitor being the Protector.  That will not be the case forever.  The value proposition it represents is amazing.

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I can assure you that iBasso will not be resting on their laurels!   More good things are upcoming!  

Only a few more hours before I get my PB1, I can't believe it only took on day for delivery from China.

Can anyone confirm that I am reading the diagram from the iBasso correctly?

I am trying to soldier some wire to the HR10A-7P-6P but I am having a hard time taking the connector apart or is there some special way to soldier wire without direct contact to the pin inside the connector?

Plug onto female socket (there are 2 on the PB1 and 1 on the DB1) and unscrew from the back.  The pin numbers are labeled on the plastic as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hvu 

Can anyone confirm that I am reading the diagram from the iBasso correctly?

 

 

That is right. Also, each pin has a number beside it (use a magnifier). You need to plug in the socket to a female while soldering or the pins will float, due to the plastic getting hot. You need a hot iron to do the soldering quick with as little heat staying on the pin as possible. Hot and fast. I have a temperature controlled soldering station and turn it up. The soldering is done in a second with most of the heat just hitting the end of the pin. 
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 

That is right. Also, each pin has a number beside it (use a magnifier). You need to plug in the socket to a female while soldering or the pins will float, due to the plastic getting hot. You need a hot iron to do the soldering quick with as little heat staying on the pin as possible. Hot and fast. I have a temperature controlled soldering station and turn it up. The soldering is done in a second with most of the heat just hitting the end of the pin. 
 

I believe that diagram is incorrect, as you are looking at it from the front.  From the rear, the numbers increase clockwise from 1 to 6.   When you look at the connector from the front, your number 1 & 6 should be reversed.