After doing some more reading, to balance the input we need R1 ll R2 = R3 ll R4.
Anyone know if this is correct?
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After doing some more reading, to balance the input we need R1 ll R2 = R3 ll R4.
Anyone know if this is correct?
been busy with school. but here's a quickie.
Generally, you want to have the input impedance of the non-inverting input and the inverting input to be the same.
Hence, R1 || R2 = R3 || R4.
This applies greatly to BJT input opamps where there is enough base current to cause dc errors.
Here is an example to show how it all works together...
Input impedance = R1 + R2 = 32,265 ohms.
To balance + to - input, R1 ll R2 = R3 ll R4
R1 ll R2 = 666.67 ohms
R3 ll R4 = 666.63 ohms
Pretty close...
Gain = R4/R3+1=3
- 3db point for C1 @ 1uf = 5hz
And here is the response curve to show the -3 db points.
This only applies when there is a DC path through R1 to ground but the cap C1 breaks this path.
Regarding DC coupling the inputs on a BJT input opamp: It is somewhat risky to fall into the trap of thinking that the source represents a return path to ground potential. Although this assumption is usually OK (when the source has DC or transformer coupled coupled outputs) it could land you in a spot of trouble when this assumption fails which will happen with a source with an output cap.
Without the cap the input attenuator (if used) is included in the DC path back to ground so the effective value of R1 varies as you spin the knob which makes life hard again.
On that note: if you use an input attenuator ~32Kohm is an odd input impedance. Its a little low for even a 5Kohm pot. unless you have a specific reason to want to do it this way R2=90-100K with a 10Kohm pot will keep everyone except people with tube output gear (driving the output directly off the plate) happier. Ideally R1+R2 should be 10* the nominal value of the pot so that it dosnt load the output of the pot, but you can get away with a little less, which buys you some wiggle room in R3&R4 and may be the easiest way to get the impedances to line up.
As Nikongod has pointed out, these examples do not take a volume pot into account.
If you were to use a volume control, R2 would be about 10x the volume pot value.
Thank you Nikongod for your input.
Maybe not a circuit design question, but more of an application problem. When choosing transformers, is it safe to use a transformer with current rating that's close to the circuit's required current? Or would it be better to use a transformer rated at twice the required current?
I guess that would depend a bit on the transformers duty cycle.
If it is only on for a short while, half hour or so, then you could
use it right up to it's current rating but expect it to get hot.
The best plan if you are going to be running it for long periods
of time (hours/days) is to use something a bit more heavy duty
and rated 50 to 100% more than you need.
Too much heat will kill the transformer in the long run...

Maybe not a circuit design question, but more of an application problem. When choosing transformers, is it safe to use a transformer with current rating that's close to the circuit's required current? Or would it be better to use a transformer rated at twice the required current?